specsalot

For those walking this path here are some supporting documents.

specsalot

Quick Update - Installed the rebuilt electronics and the engine fired right up. I warmed it up and did a preliminary bleed on the coolant system. Tomorrow after a bit more QA and assembly work it will be time for a road test. The idle is stable and the engine sounds good. Thanks to all for the suggestions and support. I will post a wrap up on the end to end process for others facing similar battles.

bumflick

Congrats. Success is sweet.

specsalot

For those climbing the learning curve, here is a short post event critique:

Initial symptoms:

1. Car lost power and died. Engine was able to start several times, but RPM would not go above ~ 2000.
2. Testing spark @ coil lead showed weak spark

Best practice should be to follow Chapter 28 (see "supporting documents" link in post 45). I do not believe any of my handling of the electrical system precipitated this failure, that said, be sure to heed concerns on pages 28-4 & 28-6. If you are questioning your DME harness, pages 28-14 & 28-15 (and the schematics) provide good PIN OUT descriptions to look for circuit issues. Page 28-16 provides a great fault matrix for running issues. Diagnostic efforts ended at Test Point 5 for me. Without access to an oscilloscope I was second guessing if I had enough spark or not. When all spark died, that became the break point to re-focus on the computer. I don't have a working timing light, but the following might have come in handy. Next time I order anything from Arnnworx, this will be on the list:

Ignition Tester

Lacking an oscilloscope makes it difficult to test the Mark Reference & RPM Sensors. Test Points 3 & 4 detail the process. Specialized ECU has a decent video for testing that can be done using a multi-meter.


Under the hood, I replaced a range of components based on things which were not in the best condition. Here is a full list of parts that went into this recovery situation:



Final Comments:

1. Having the spark tester would have gotten to resolution sooner.
2. I did the best I could given limited spare time to devote to this project.
3. Specialized ECU Repair did a decent job with a very fast turn around time.
4. Specialized handled the second rebuild of the DME (due to KLR damage) honoring their 5 year warranty at no additional charge. I would not hesitate to recommend them to others based on my experience.
5. TPS was bad (idle contact had failed open).
6. AFM was dicey in upper range of position, so a rebuilt unit was re-fitted.
7. Throttle Valve Seals were gone, unit was rebuilt using an Arnnworx kit.
8. Battery & Alternator Cable Harnesses were replaced pro-actively based on condition.
9. Lindsey Repair Harness kits are decent quality. On balance after going this route, I probably would have just bought a new OEM DME harness. Organizing the harness kit wires under the hood is a bit of a challenge.
10. The 24 year old Bosch wire held up in most of the DME harness.
11. Most of the Bosch connector boots were potted with epoxy, but wires outside the potting had insulation issues.

A post repair road test (last night) finds the engine running long and strong - Best its ran since I bought the car in 07. It idles well and has great throttle response. As part of the package with Specialized, I opted for their "chips". A very mild upgrade for what will likely remain mostly a stock daily driver. Thanks to all here for the help / advice provided during this process.

Ronin-951

Thank YOU, beautiful articulation of the problems and solutions, the WYIT, Parts needed, and cost. A pleasure to read your work!

specsalot

Thanks for the kind words. This was a learning experience for me. I overshot on parts a bit, but the more I looked under the hood the more I saw needing attention. Thanks so much for taking the time to read and post great suggestions and useful feedback through out this process.

Crazy Eddie

Sorry for being late to the party ( I wish I had read this earlier ) maybe my experience may have helped ?
First let me say .... You did an awesome job !!!!
Awesome in every way!
It took me a very long time to get to the bottom of my issue, but my car was running, albeit poorly at times.
Sorry for an after the fact, late input...
See this thread https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...dle-issue.html
Again great job !!!
Best of luck
Regards
Ed

specsalot

Ed - Great Thread - Thanks for the link. Wade @ Specialized ECU Repair said that they are seeing more and more DME problems which originate with KLR issues. The car runs well.

In the last couple days I've seen the boost indication drop off. First time was a loose tubing connection on the air distributor. Tightened it up and dash indication began to show more typical response to throttle blips at idle (drop in vacuum) Unfortunately Ive seen the dash indication die again. It shows 0 PSIA (high vacuum) and doesn't respond to throttle blips. I was careful with how things get laid up in the footwell. Time for more careful review. More to follow...

specsalot

Note - Real boost is OK, turbo spools nicely, plenty of engine power. Just seeing a drop out of boost gage indication.

specsalot

Ran the above issue done - Proved to be a fouled connection on T1 in the passenger footwell.

Tiger03447

I've had fuel fouling issues with other cars that tended to do this esp in cold weather..After pulling the plugs I used a microflame torch to ignite any of the remaining fuel in the plug..seems to work OK...Sometimes I use starting fluid in the plug recess prior to ignition..BTW use a pair of channellock pliers and a glove to hold the plug when burning off the excess fuel deposits..I only use the ether when oil fouled and use it to loosen deposits next to the porcelain insulator..not too smart but it works!

Tiger03447

Great thread! now I know what to look for ..How do I get in touch with the ECU people, I.E. specialized tuning? I prolly need to send in my ancient unit for checkout..Thx..Tiger03447

RajDatta

Specialized Ecu.