Blown 944 Hybrid Stroker DIY Guide
#16
Three Wheelin'
Thanks. I asked a few questions too. There is actually a scored block on my stand at home that is cleaned and ready for grouting, but when I started looking at the water pump end, I was not exactly sure how to grout that area and had to leave for the other side of the world before I had decided what to do. Some photos of that area would be very instructive. The current floor of the water jacket is roughly the same depth as the water pump discharge port.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. I asked a few questions too. There is actually a scored block on my stand at home that is cleaned and ready for grouting, but when I started looking at the water pump end, I was not exactly sure how to grout that area and had to leave for the other side of the world before I had decided what to do. Some photos of that area would be very instructive. The current floor of the water jacket is roughly the same depth as the water pump discharge port.
#20
Thanks Shawn for documenting the build(s) and parts list. I am obviously not that great at detailed documentation. I tend to keep most of it in my head. It will help me too in regards to responding to messages.
Hopefully, we can make this as easy as possible for anyone looking to build one. I'll add suggestions as it goes and after you get the majority of info posted.
Thanks again!!
Hopefully, we can make this as easy as possible for anyone looking to build one. I'll add suggestions as it goes and after you get the majority of info posted.
Thanks again!!
I think driving a few miles..and stealing an engine would be easier.....
#21
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Small Business Partner
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Small Business Partner
Great thread Shawn & Sid!
Having the joy of being around these Hybrid stroker motors for a while now, I am excited to see more people go this route - and this thread is a big step in the right direction.
Having the joy of being around these Hybrid stroker motors for a while now, I am excited to see more people go this route - and this thread is a big step in the right direction.
The following users liked this post:
fejjj (05-11-2020)
#22
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: washington,dc
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quick question, I'm about to go the hybrid route and have read somewhere of a specific tune/chip for these engines. Am I correct or did I miss read? Already have M-tune,and waiting for new DME project to get logger/tuner all in one bundle. Just trying to plan for this build as best possible. Thanks.
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Small Business Partner
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Small Business Partner
Quick question, I'm about to go the hybrid route and have read somewhere of a specific tune/chip for these engines. Am I correct or did I miss read? Already have M-tune,and waiting for new DME project to get logger/tuner all in one bundle. Just trying to plan for this build as best possible. Thanks.
#27
Drifting
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bangkok, Thailand, Milpitas, CA & Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
Couple of questions Shawn, is KLR a typo? Did you use CLR to clean the block? If not, what is KLR? Also, what is the depth from the top of the block to the block filler, or what height % is recommended?
#28
Nordschleife Master
One thing to note is that the thrust/axial clearance at the big end of the crank will be very large with the Mitsubishi rods. I removed the pan of my engine yesterday to inspect and change the rod bearings and can happily say that there is no signs of this causing any issues at all.
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
One thing to note is that the thrust/axial clearance at the big end of the crank will be very large with the Mitsubishi rods. I removed the pan of my engine yesterday to inspect and change the rod bearings and can happily say that there is no signs of this causing any issues at all.
#30
Race Car
Shawn, you're doing a wonderful job with this write up. Thank you again.
A couple of things of note;
Crank grinder should be able to keep the crank straight if they are cautious when grinding each journal. It is imperative that they watch the runout as they are machining.
Regarding the radius at the big end; we used to have cranks ground with a "fat radius" and used narrow race bearings on small block chevys. Same idea here.
Rods need small ends machined for pins.
If any aluminum makes contact at the bottom of the cylinder, the skirt will gall and ruin the cylinders.
May want to add the option of using flanged sleeves if your machinist will do it. This provides a nice sealing area for the HG.
Also unlike doing a factory stroker, these do not require clearancing at the girdle.
The wet paper towel idea to block ports and to shape water pump inlet works very well and easily removed.
When having the crank ground I wanted a racing clearance for the rod bearings. Iirc, I specd .002. I believe that info is in my original thread.
A couple of things of note;
Crank grinder should be able to keep the crank straight if they are cautious when grinding each journal. It is imperative that they watch the runout as they are machining.
Regarding the radius at the big end; we used to have cranks ground with a "fat radius" and used narrow race bearings on small block chevys. Same idea here.
Rods need small ends machined for pins.
If any aluminum makes contact at the bottom of the cylinder, the skirt will gall and ruin the cylinders.
May want to add the option of using flanged sleeves if your machinist will do it. This provides a nice sealing area for the HG.
Also unlike doing a factory stroker, these do not require clearancing at the girdle.
The wet paper towel idea to block ports and to shape water pump inlet works very well and easily removed.
When having the crank ground I wanted a racing clearance for the rod bearings. Iirc, I specd .002. I believe that info is in my original thread.
Last edited by blown 944; 01-30-2014 at 01:33 AM.