Front mount intercooler install + 3" piping with pics
10-18-2013, 01:32 AM
#31
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10-18-2013, 05:12 AM
#32
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This routing looks promising, somebody should try it on 951 
Mounted on front side of the roof, it could even work as aux cabin heater or windshield defroster
Mounted on front side of the roof, it could even work as aux cabin heater or windshield defroster
10-18-2013, 09:12 AM
#33
doug i feel that with a little more attention to detail and time you could achieve a much cleaner result that might yield a better overall result from people giving their criticism. People see the line going over the strut brace the overall organization of the engine bay and it bothers them. Mostly because the people on this site are **** retentive and prefer a clean job with results over a job with results and i agree with them.
In the grand scheme of things it take just a little more effort and forethought to get it looking right.
In the grand scheme of things it take just a little more effort and forethought to get it looking right.
10-18-2013, 11:01 AM
#34
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Yeah, I wish I didn't have to do it that way but the intention was not to save 10 dollars, it was to get home that night after we realized we didnt have enough mandrel bent aluminum pipe to complete the tubing fab. I ran to the store and grabbed some exhaust piping because it would fit and the car would run with it. It definitely wasn't a cheap out thing. It's getting fixed this weekend with proper aluminum. Glad to hear the stock rods are that tough Chris, though I doubt I will push it much past 400-425 without building the motor. The bottom of the intercooler IS slightly bent, good eye. It was my fault for not realizing how much pressure I was putting on it when fitting it in from the bottom. When I realized I had warped it a bit I put a piece of wood under it. Not a big deal I dont think. I also definitely meant to grind off those bottom mounting points but again, this install took longer than anticipated and as 2 am rolled around, it became extremely rushed. I'll have to post more pics once its all cleaned up since everyone apparently thinks I did such a terrible job with this.
Reno, my hood closes fine, it clears the ISV by a mile. Its been like that for well over a year. No vac leaks, I pull 19" at idle, and the DV is not hooked up. It is simply being used as an airtight seal in the J boot.
944er, I appreciate the input bud. I guess that's entirely up to opinion. You're welcome to a ride, it might change yours. Like I said, it was never meant to look pretty. I'm curious though, what about it do you find to be so poor? most of this setup is temporary.
Reno, my hood closes fine, it clears the ISV by a mile. Its been like that for well over a year. No vac leaks, I pull 19" at idle, and the DV is not hooked up. It is simply being used as an airtight seal in the J boot.
944er, I appreciate the input bud. I guess that's entirely up to opinion. You're welcome to a ride, it might change yours. Like I said, it was never meant to look pretty. I'm curious though, what about it do you find to be so poor? most of this setup is temporary.
10-18-2013, 01:46 PM
#36
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I hereby declare Dougs951S the official Rennlist test car.
10-18-2013, 01:47 PM
#37
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10-18-2013, 05:48 PM
#40
Drifting
I put an RX7 style oil cooler where your IC sits.
I found it more important to keep my oil cool on track
based on 3 years of ChumpCar racing.
If the oil stays cool -- you're engine will be a whole lot happier.
Power isn't everything if you're not able to actually turn any laps.
Mike
AND Yes -- I too got the Dave's mixed up.
I found it more important to keep my oil cool on track
based on 3 years of ChumpCar racing.
If the oil stays cool -- you're engine will be a whole lot happier.
Power isn't everything if you're not able to actually turn any laps.
Mike
AND Yes -- I too got the Dave's mixed up.
10-18-2013, 07:23 PM
#42
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10-18-2013, 07:33 PM
#43
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I am the real Doug! I declare a death match!
on a serious note guys, my car is super dirty and disorganized. I get that, but its far from a hack job and there are specific reasons for me doing all the things you guys have called me out on. It isnt because I lack attention to detail. I've beaten this car mercilessly for years and it isnt going to fall apart any time soon. My ISV hose is NOT held together with tape, that is there to keep the worm clamp from biting into the hose and causing a leak. The filter is crushed from the PO and I've never bothered to change it out because I'm getting a new one with my microsquirt. The DV stuck into the J boot is a bit ghetto, but its all I had at the time. Can any of you guys tell me how you would have done it better if you needed the car running that night and didnt have a new J pipe already fabbed? I do, but I've yet to put it in place. The clamps on my fuel lines are doubled up and they are fuel injection rated, with the rolled edges just like what used to come from factory porsches and lots of other cars. They are totally fine. Running without the FPD was an experiment, and I've never bothered to totally remove the jumper line because I'm afraid of needlessly putting torque on the fragile fuel rail. I had a fuel fire about a year ago caused from a small pinhole leak on the rail. Thats really where all the dirtiness comes from, I was just never able to get the engine totally clean and it really doesnt bother me. Its like a badge to me that the car survived a pretty bad fire.
And a question, is anyone here running without an ISV? It never gets cold here in south texas and while microsquirt can run an ISV via PWM, I can use that 5 volt port for something else if I can get away with deleting the ISV and setting the idle a bit high at 1000-1100 rpm.
Lart my car IS a test bed and while I realize your comment was tongue in cheek, I'll take that title proudly.
on a serious note guys, my car is super dirty and disorganized. I get that, but its far from a hack job and there are specific reasons for me doing all the things you guys have called me out on. It isnt because I lack attention to detail. I've beaten this car mercilessly for years and it isnt going to fall apart any time soon. My ISV hose is NOT held together with tape, that is there to keep the worm clamp from biting into the hose and causing a leak. The filter is crushed from the PO and I've never bothered to change it out because I'm getting a new one with my microsquirt. The DV stuck into the J boot is a bit ghetto, but its all I had at the time. Can any of you guys tell me how you would have done it better if you needed the car running that night and didnt have a new J pipe already fabbed? I do, but I've yet to put it in place. The clamps on my fuel lines are doubled up and they are fuel injection rated, with the rolled edges just like what used to come from factory porsches and lots of other cars. They are totally fine. Running without the FPD was an experiment, and I've never bothered to totally remove the jumper line because I'm afraid of needlessly putting torque on the fragile fuel rail. I had a fuel fire about a year ago caused from a small pinhole leak on the rail. Thats really where all the dirtiness comes from, I was just never able to get the engine totally clean and it really doesnt bother me. Its like a badge to me that the car survived a pretty bad fire.
And a question, is anyone here running without an ISV? It never gets cold here in south texas and while microsquirt can run an ISV via PWM, I can use that 5 volt port for something else if I can get away with deleting the ISV and setting the idle a bit high at 1000-1100 rpm.
Lart my car IS a test bed and while I realize your comment was tongue in cheek, I'll take that title proudly.
10-18-2013, 08:26 PM
#44
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I'm running without an ISV. The car would almost stall if I had the wipers, headlights, and cabin blower running. I removed the AC, so I don't know what effect that would have, but I'm guessing it would have resulted in a stall. At the time, I had really big cams in it, so it was already pissed off about idling, and the lack of an ISV was not do it any favors.
Best way to see how removing the ISV will effect your car, at idle, is to block the hose off, and run different accessories to increase demand on the engine.
Best way to see how removing the ISV will effect your car, at idle, is to block the hose off, and run different accessories to increase demand on the engine.
10-19-2013, 02:10 AM
#45
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I went ahead and deleted it today, the car idles perfectly. ~800 rpm when stone cold and 1k when warmed up. I had to back the idle screw out 2 turns and its worth noting today was one of the coldest days we've had all year. I think it'll do just fine.