well i thought it was fixed, tach bounce
#1
well i thought it was fixed, tach bounce
I thought after seeing the frayed wire of the crank sensor I found the no start problem.
wrong, still no tach bounce but I am getting bounce After I stop cranking for a split second before the motor stops. maybe 2-3 bounces but none while cranking.
anyone want to help me pinpoint this one?!?!
wrong, still no tach bounce but I am getting bounce After I stop cranking for a split second before the motor stops. maybe 2-3 bounces but none while cranking.
anyone want to help me pinpoint this one?!?!
#2
Race Car
Check power to the DME when you are trying to crank it? COuld be the ignition switch isn't sending power in the start position, but will in teh run position. I've had that happen to me before (different car), maddening when the car tries to start as soon as you let go of the key. Another way you could try that would be to run a wire to the starter solenoid, and just touch it to the battery with the key in the ON position, which would bypass the start position.
#5
ok found it, I check resistance on the new ref sensors and they check out good at the DME so I can only assume in not having harness issues, also getting 12v with the ket turned to the DME, so what did I narrow down?
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#12
Instructor
I don't see how the ignition switch itself could do it; plus I just checked the prints and there's no contacts between the computer and the tach that affect it like that in any case. So when you cut power, signal passes... points to the board now. >_< I'll try to find a good res pic of the logic
#14
Intermediate
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: IE/Santa Cruz, CA
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Do you have the factory alarm? You could try bypassing it.. Has anyone messed with the keyhole next to the driver's door? If engaged, it would disable the whole ignition.
#15
Instructor
I need to print off these prints; I found the key switch on the central electrical page but some of the positions go off page. Position zero which is the off doesn't do anything except go to the battery for some lighting though looks like. That the signal is passed even while off says something on the board is changing to allow for it to pass until it actually gets power. Just have to figure out what since the sensors etc are proven good pretty much. I'll get it printed off tomorrow; maybe somebody will have a quicker answer. Don't worry about the body piece... that's like a year from now probably.