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lol well this car that im parting hopefully wont still be here in a year so ill get it out to you this week so at least you have it. as far as what your saying I have no idea, im not great with electrical stuff......at all
checked fuel, have good pressure when cranking
no spark at coil BUT when I stop cranking I have spark for a slit second (same split second after cranking that I have tach bounce)
I reread what you wrote haha yes it goes back to run position, the motor still spins a little and that's when I have tach bounce and spark until it stops
I reread what you wrote haha yes it goes back to run position, the motor still spins a little and that's when I have tach bounce and spark until it stops
Post 2, just like I said, sounds like a bad switch. Take a wire and connect it to the starter solenoid, run it up the firewall. Put the key in the run position. Touch that wire to the + side of the battery, and see if it starts. I bet it does.
You were right king. Fired up. I'll get a switch and put it in. Thanks for taking the time to read what I wrote, I've had endless problems and am finally getting somewhere
They are around 90 bucks and have to order it, I have a. Used one are these known to go bad often? Would it bead waste putting a used one in?
I know of several cars that burned badly from a ignition switch going bad. The power comes directly from the battery to the ignition switch...no inline bus fuses to save the day.
still running Crazy rich tho, I def thought after I fixed the huge air leak at the turbo housing it would run right, it only runs sorta right when I put the factory FPR back on but wven then still rich