Grant27

Is this with the clutch fork? Visible in inspection hole? @400hp944

Red1

I had a hydraulic failure exactly as described by the OP.

I've done my share of clutch jobs, and I've never had the fork pin come out willingly. Fall out?? I call shenanigans.

Grant27

Red1, You had the exact same pedal action where it would go all the way to the floor and then all the way up via spring action?

Replacing both hydraulics fixed the issue completely?

Scott H

Mine went the same way. It worked great up until I pressed on it the last time, then it stuck to the floor. I replaced the master, slave, the line in between and the blue cloth braided line that goes from the reservoir to the master. It's not a hard job, but tedious, as you can only get about 1/8th of a turn at a time on the two bolts that hold the master to the firewall. I believe there is also a piece of gasket material between the master and the firewall that you'll also want to replace while you're in there.

Grant27

Thank you very much for the input, I will be ordering the parts tonight or Tommorow, I will take a final look at my car just to cross out the other options.

aglaes

As mentioned earlier, the brakes and the clutch share the same fluid resovoir. From my understanding, in order to prevent draining all the brake fluid and result in brake failure if the clutch master or slave cylinders fail, the clutch draws it's fluid from a smaller compartment in the brake fluid resovoir that has a weir around it, preventing all the brake fluid from draining out. That is part of the reason it's such a pain to properly bleed the clutch. I believe the Clarke's garage procedure calls for raising the rear of the car higher than the front while bleeding the clutch, to try to keep fluid level higher than the weir - which is in the front driver's side corner of the fluid resovoir.

My master and slave cylinders failed one right after the other as well shortly after I bought my 951. I agree with others here - replace both at the same time. I made the mistake of not doing so. My clutch pedal still isn't as high as it should be because it's not been bled properly.

Grant27

I ordered all new parts last night from pelican. Master, slave, connecting hose, the whole shabang!

llusk

Did this fix your problem? I had the same issue, clutch was working fine, then it sprung to the floor.

Grant27

Yes, it turned out the slave cylinder had let loose. I replaced that, the master cyl, the line between. It was slow but it paid off. The bleeding was a bit difficult but between using a positive pressure pump on the top end and having the car slightly tipped it worked out well.

Thanks for all the help!

gpr8er

late to the party but I think this is the slickest way of bleeding the clutch. It's really a PIA job. Instead of trying to force air down use the oil pump can and chase the air up the way it wants to go.

Grant27

Never late to add info!

That video is a great idea! I am interested in trying that out now just to see if I could get any more fluid out of my lines!

Thanks for the awesome video, he does a great job of explaining how the clutch system works to anyone uninowledageable of the system. Definitely one to keep in mind for anyone new to these cars and suffering from a failed clutch like I was!!!

Scott H

Once you do this you'll never bleed from the top again. At least I haven't.

Dougs951S

Just my .02 cents, but IMO the best way to bleed the clutch is with a positive pressure device like a motive. It takes literally 2 minutes and I've never had an issue with it getting every last bit of air out. The 50 bucks for one pays for its self the first time you do a clutch job on your own, or with a helper for that matter.

aglaes

I need to re-bleed mine to try to get the pedal back to the full up position - it now only comes about half way up. Don't think the shop that did it really understood that the resovoir has the little weir in it and they were never able to get all the air out.

I plan to buy a power bleeder. A step by step procedure would be nice. I've read the Clarke's Garage instructions and they seem to skip over some of the details.

Can someone provide step by step exactly how to do this correctly?

Ky944TurboNewbie

The cold got my seals too. I didn't identify where the failed component was, but instead ordered a master / slave and hose from Pelican this morning. Decided against the Motive power bleeder as it would have added shipping charges and I could get it from Amazon with free shipping. I saw this first and it makes total sense to me. I will be trying this method and hopefully saving a few dollars on the power bleeder. Thanks for posting the video.