Dougs951S

there are three main reasons I decided to go with the Holset. The billet 7 blade compressor wheel I got flows huge. It is a 54mm exducer that flows 60 lb/min. That puts it in the territory of 60+mm turbos. The aero of the wheels is bleeding edge and better than anything garrett has out there, especially the turbines. They are better than the best GT wheels. because of this, a thrust bearing holset can outspool a smaller ball bearing garrett and make more power. Lastly, they are durable as hell and can easily and cheaply be rebuilt if anything does go wrong. besides their unwieldy large hotsides, they are the perfect turbos.

Supachink

does the unwieldy large hot side cause any fitment issues with the intake manifold / alternator shroud?

Dougs951S

It would cause issues with mating to the stock crossover and down pipe, but I am making this turbo bolt on by fitting it to a replica hotside. The replica housings are made to use a garrett CHRA which is just a hair smaller than the holsets where it mates to the hotside. Some slight machining of the center section will allow it to bolt up. Then you can use your stock exhaust. The stock HX35 turbine is .3mm larger than a garrett stage 5 wheel so a replica hotside designed for a stage 5 can be used with just a bit of maching. If you opt to use the smaller and quicker spooling HY turbine which interchanges with the HX, it is very close in size to a garrett stage 3 and can be fit into a stage 3 prepared replica T housing with minimal machining. There are still some fitment issues since the compressor housing is so large. As Sid mentioned, you will need to do some grinding to fit on the intake manifold, the throttle body, and the turbo mount. Last thing is the compressor inlets and outlets are bigger than stock so you will need the appropriate silicone reducers to get everything working right. I will post pictures in this thread.

Dougs951S

Here are some pictures. I took all the bolts out of the center but I'm having some trouble getting the hotside off, and I dont want to damage anything. I soaked it in penetrating oil, but I dont have a torch. I tapped it gently with a hammer to see if I could shake it loose but I dont want to just wail on it. Any ideas? I'm going to try to hit it with some liquid nitro and see if I can thermal shock is loose.

http://postimg.org/image/jj0grbmc5/

http://postimg.org/image/r1t8z1b4z/

http://postimg.org/image/qyd7zqxt3/

http://postimg.org/image/z8foy47c7/

http://postimg.org/image/n36akle9p/

http://postimg.org/image/iwzva3jo9/

blown 944

Just clamp the center section in a vise and hit the turbine housing. They get fairly stuck. As long as you smack the housing straight downward it won't touch the wheel. Damaging the thousing is of no consequence and honestly, I doubt you could hurt it.

Supa, I've mated holsets to garret hot sides for years now. The exhaust poses no problems. There really isn't much more grinding than fitting a TO4e, with the exception of the comp housing against the mount. It's not a big deal really.

blown 944

Looking at your pics, you will need to cut the waste gate boss off the comp housing. I usually get the non WG style, however the last Holset I installed, I cut the boss off with a portable band saw. I fit it onto a DSM

Dougs951S

Yeah, I'm going to be taking a cutoff wheel to it tomorrow. I didnt even realize there were some HX's that were not internally gated. The price I paid for this turbo was so cheap I cant complain, plus its in excellent condition. I'm really inclined at this point to just bolt it on and go, my main apprehension is that once I machine the hotside to fit the turbine, if I decide its too laggy and I'd like it to spool a bit faster, I've lost the ability to run the HY turbine in it without locating a new unmolested hotside. I'm also having trouble envisioning how I'm going to step down the 4 inch inlet to my 2.75 inch J boot without hacking it up, since I plan to run this turbo on low boost with an AFM for a short period of time. I cant find a coupler that steps down that much, so It would need to be a series of couplers with pieces of I guess PVC in between to give it something to clamp on to. problem is then it will be so long, I wont really be able to fit it all in there anymore so I may ask Joshua if he can send me the M tune hard intake pipes to use in the mean time with my AFM. I'm having the same issue with plumbing on the outlet side because I cant find a coupler in a 2-7/8" ID to match the holset compressor outlet. I'm going to try to force a 2 3/4 inch coupler over it and step it down to a piece of pvc and mate that to a cut down factory black rubber coupler. Kinda ghetto for my own taste but I'll think of something better. I just want to get this running! I'll have a k27/8 that was rebuilt ~10k miles ago for sale soon.

blown 944

You don't want to use PVC on the outlet. I have squeezed 2.5 couplers over the outlet. Tbh, you should just get some piping and use a mig welder to build it. Getting a 45/u bend 2.5" pipe is pretty cheap and gives plenty of angles. Then you can use some proper couplers. You can also use this or 3" for the inlet pipe.

However, at one point I think I cut the stock AFM j boot to fit a 3" pipe and used a 3-4" coupler.

Dougs951S

I am mocking up the new hardpipes from PVC today. When I am happy with the fitment I will have them tig welded from aluminum. Coming from the airflow meter I have a stock J boot cut down behind the fuel vapor recirc port to 3 inches, which goes into a 3 inch pipe with a 1 inch port for the AOS and an 11/32 hole drilled to attach the fuel vapor purge barb. I realize the actual size for the AOS is 17/16th but my choices were limited in pvc. This pipe is stepped up to 4 inches into the turbo inlet.

On the outlet side, a 2.75 couple joins the turbo to a 2.5 inch pipe with a 45 degree bend in it. This is stepped down to the 2 3/8th interooler inlet with a 2.25 coupler. From the intercooler to the throttle body it is stock. The pre-intercooler pipe does not have a boost reference port, since I am getting my signal to my boost controller directly off the compressor housing. My first impression is that these pipes are huge!

Update: Oil feed is done!

Nother update: The hotside was all rusted where it meets the CHRA but there was no carbon buildup whatsoever. The turbine wheel looks great. After soaking the turbo in PB blaster for 48 hours, I couldnt budge the hotside 1 mm with my BFH. The way I did it was to thread some long bolts into the hotside and stick 3/8 sockets between the bolt head and the center section. By backing the bolts out 1/4 turn at a time, the hotside popped right off.