K26/8 or K27/8?
#1
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Rebuilding k26/8 turbo.
Currently running:
A Tune
3 Bar FPR
80lb injectors
Stock AFM
E85
Street application
Thinking about going to k27/8
What say you guys?
Currently running:
A Tune
3 Bar FPR
80lb injectors
Stock AFM
E85
Street application
Thinking about going to k27/8
What say you guys?
#2
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If you have to rebuild your turbo, I say go for it. It doesn't add too much additional cost and you already have supporting mods for fuel. You don't have the exhaust/wastegate mods to see the most out of the setup but you should see gains from the 26/8. If you open the exhaust and get a wastegate or at least shims you will see a night and day difference even with the 26/8. Even more gains if you go to the Mtune, but from there you'll need a bigger fuel pump for e85.
Aside from that, your spool up will be a little laggier than what your current setup is with a 27, make sure to get the 7200 compressor setup if you do go with it.
Aside from that, your spool up will be a little laggier than what your current setup is with a 27, make sure to get the 7200 compressor setup if you do go with it.
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adfsouth (04-09-2020)
#4
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How much laggier is it than the k26/8?
#5
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When you say open the exhaust, do you mean deleting the cat?
#6
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Post #3 from this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-k-27-8-a.html
"The lag to 15PSI between my 26/6 and the 26/8 was about 300 RPM. The lag from the 26/8 to the 27/8 was another 200 RPM. That said, lag was reduced by 300 RPM when I added the MAF. I did not have dyno data from the 26/6 to the 26/8, but the 26/8 put 280 to the wheels and the 27/8 put 305 (at 15psi). Before I get flamed, I use the Road Dyno (an ingition refrenced accelerometer, ala G-tech) to gather data along with my WBO2 logging. As the same unit and similar conditions were present, I can take the data with a good degree of confidence.
I don't know if the cost increase is worth 25HP, not to mention there are better spooling turbos for the money.
500 RPM can be substancial to some, minimal to others. For me, it works just fine."
Delete the cat or go full exhaust, many people will just go for a test pipe. I did that at first and saw big gains with a test pipe and Tial wastegate, but my car would max out just under 300rwhp. After going to a full 3-3.5" graduated exhaust, I got another 'seat of the pants' gain.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-k-27-8-a.html
"The lag to 15PSI between my 26/6 and the 26/8 was about 300 RPM. The lag from the 26/8 to the 27/8 was another 200 RPM. That said, lag was reduced by 300 RPM when I added the MAF. I did not have dyno data from the 26/6 to the 26/8, but the 26/8 put 280 to the wheels and the 27/8 put 305 (at 15psi). Before I get flamed, I use the Road Dyno (an ingition refrenced accelerometer, ala G-tech) to gather data along with my WBO2 logging. As the same unit and similar conditions were present, I can take the data with a good degree of confidence.
I don't know if the cost increase is worth 25HP, not to mention there are better spooling turbos for the money.
500 RPM can be substancial to some, minimal to others. For me, it works just fine."
Delete the cat or go full exhaust, many people will just go for a test pipe. I did that at first and saw big gains with a test pipe and Tial wastegate, but my car would max out just under 300rwhp. After going to a full 3-3.5" graduated exhaust, I got another 'seat of the pants' gain.
#7
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Thank you for all the info!
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#10
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I will add this: don't think that the added lag will result in the car feeling slower. Sure, the car may take longer to make boost - but it will make more power off boost.
As Charlie from Evergreen explained to me, the stock K26 compressor housing is a restriction in itself. Going to the larger K27 opens up the intake path and flows more freely. So the power you lose by not having boost will be made up by more "N/A" power with the freer flowing intake path.
I went with a T04E on my car, which has a MUCH larger inlet (3" vs. 2.5") and the car makes a lot more grunt off-boost than it did before.
As Charlie from Evergreen explained to me, the stock K26 compressor housing is a restriction in itself. Going to the larger K27 opens up the intake path and flows more freely. So the power you lose by not having boost will be made up by more "N/A" power with the freer flowing intake path.
I went with a T04E on my car, which has a MUCH larger inlet (3" vs. 2.5") and the car makes a lot more grunt off-boost than it did before.
#11
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I will add this: don't think that the added lag will result in the car feeling slower. Sure, the car may take longer to make boost - but it will make more power off boost.
As Charlie from Evergreen explained to me, the stock K26 compressor housing is a restriction in itself. Going to the larger K27 opens up the intake path and flows more freely. So the power you lose by not having boost will be made up by more "N/A" power with the freer flowing intake path.
I went with a T04E on my car, which has a MUCH larger inlet (3" vs. 2.5") and the car makes a lot more grunt off-boost than it did before.
As Charlie from Evergreen explained to me, the stock K26 compressor housing is a restriction in itself. Going to the larger K27 opens up the intake path and flows more freely. So the power you lose by not having boost will be made up by more "N/A" power with the freer flowing intake path.
I went with a T04E on my car, which has a MUCH larger inlet (3" vs. 2.5") and the car makes a lot more grunt off-boost than it did before.
#12
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