Lex_GTX

I have checked them and there is indeed play in both axes of the u-joint.

I don't feel play in the steering wheel itself however when stationary and turning from side to side. When you replaced yours did you feel a difference?

divil

Yes there was a definite difference, but not the improvement I was hoping for. The main difference was that the steering became much smoother especially at low speeds. There must have been some binding with the old joints. But I think I will get the benefit of the new joints when the steering rack has been replaced.

Regarding the play, it was very difficult to track down, but I definitely do notice it a little even when driving at low speeds. With the car stationary, if I look at the driver's side wheel, I can see it move with the smallest of steering inputs, but it doesn't seem to move as much as it should, and the first 1/2" of movement in the steering wheel feels kind of spongy. With the front wheels in the air, it's impossible to detect the play without locking the rack. It's just not loose enough to show up that way.

Lex_GTX

Very interested in your results. If this gets you a very solid steering feel, I will be doing the same.

It seems to be a common problem on these cars and yet there doesn't seems to be a fairly well ironed out solution. The fact that it's hard to find cars like these to drive and compare makes it difficult to know how "normal" should feel.

divil

Yep I agree. So far it's still the only 944 I've ever driven so it is hard to make a comparison, but I cannot believe it drove like this when it was new. I'll certainly be putting up whatever I find when get the replacement done.

Lex_GTX

Any news on this?

divil

Hey, sorry I know I said I'd update the thread, but I have been slammed with other problems with the car and have not fitted the new rack yet. The rack and tie rod assemblies are sitting in my apartment gathering dust.

(Right now the car is in a shop having major restoration work to the battery tray which is so badly rusted I can't even drive the car in case it rains)

It's looking like another 2 weeks before I get a chance to swap the steering rack.

But I promise I'll post an update when I can!

Dougs951S

I feel the need to chime in because I think everybody is approaching this issue incorrectly. It may very well not be an issues of what needs to be replaced, but rather what needs to be adjusted properly. You mentioned in the start of this thread that your caster was even on both sides. This will cause totally terrible handling. Most pulling in a car is almost always caster related. A car will pull to the side that has the most negative caster. However, most cars are set up with cross caster. You want a good bit more caster on the driver side than the passenger and an ideal alignment will have the car drift ever so slightly to the right on a dead flat road that has no crown. 99% of roads in the USA do have a crown, so this will cause the car to track straight.

divil

I don't agree. Having caster adjusted is going to be an expensive way to test the issue, vs. looking for parts that clearly need to be replaced. The approach I'm using is cheap and quick and if you find free play in the rack or the tie rods then there is no question that they need to be replaced. I don't see the point in having alignment adjustments made when there is a good chance you have worn parts. Get everything tight first, then you will know the alignment is going to be spot on.

Finding the source of looseness can be tricky, as I learned the hard way...but the locking bolt for the rack makes it a lot easier.

CurtP

What does it wonder about?

divil

divil

Well I finally got to replacing the rack a week ago. I had to wait a few days for an alignment, and a few more before I could drive it properly. I was supposed to be at the track this weekend but I had to miss it.

So here's what I've found out...the results are, like evertyhing I've done with this car, inconclusive. At low speeds, there is still a lot of free play and a very spongy feel to the steering near the centre, so no improvement there. It does feel very smooth and light when parking, which is nice.

At high speeds, there seems to be a big improvement with the whole "wandering" issue. The car now remains nice and solid at at least 100. I didn't have time to go somewhere I that I could go really fast so that will have to wait. But it is definitely better. I will have to call this particualr issue "fixed" from my point of view, but the steering still leaves a lot to be desired. The car just seems slow to change direction...not what I'd call "responsive".

Did you get around to checking your rack for play? My advice at this point would have to be don't spend any money or do any work until you have driven at least one 951 that handles the way you want. You don't want to end up like me...after everything I've done, I still don't know if there is something wrong, or something not adjusted correctly, or if the car just isn't supposed to handle the way I want it to.

Lex_GTX

Thanks for the update. Every part at this point seems to have some wear and on top of this the steering quickness of modern cars is not going to be replicated on the 951.

I acquired a play free steering shaft and I will be replacing this shortly. After this I will be looking at the struts and top mounts and finally the rack.

I drove the car on a 600km trip a few weekends ago and the problem feels less pronounced as you get used to it after driving more modern cars. The age of the design has to be kept in mind - this car is definitely not quick at changing directions especially at low speeds - it is best on winding roads and road courses versus Auto-X.

black944 turbo

I really think this innate to these cars. I have a similar issue and have done. Tie rods, ball joints, rack, caster blocks, upper strut mounts, struts, steering shaft, literally every part has been checked or replaced. If anyone finds a solution let me know.