User 52121

I bought an adapter at AutoZone of all places that converters your regular floor jack to a trans jack. Worked better than I expected it to.

Black51

So, to all those who are in favor of doing the job the transmission way, why would you recommend going that way? Faster? Easier? Cheaper?

Scott H

All of the above.

DFASTEST951

Thanks for the input guys. I gave a lister $200 to R&R my tranny. He removed it but now he won't put it back in. Says I'm too picky and doesn't want to mess up my car's paint. Don't know how he's gonna mess up the paint from under the car. And of course, he's keeping th cash. So I was just wondering how long it takes. Because I asked if he was going to give back the $100 to me and he said, he's done so much for me that the money he has is more than fair. You guys just helped me confirm he was just super slow when everyone else is a lot faster. Sucks but lesson learned.

Black51

So... it's been a long time coming, but the new clutch is finally in.

I'm getting a loud metallic rattle somewhere under the car, and it seems like it's somewhere under the engine.

The rattle occurs at ~2200-2400RPM. Any suggestions?

refresh951

Can you describe the rattle a bit more?

Couple ideas: WG hitting the torque tube, starter heat shield

Cyberpunky

I have felt a slight slip from my clutch in first on boost so have been taking it easy since but figure a new clutch is on the cards. The 12 bolts holding the axles to the trans are one use bolts (I think) so I would need those but what else should I have on hand to do a clutch replacement ? I have new gasket for exhaust already. I am thinking I may do a short shift kit while I am in there but would appreciate any input about what I should have on hand before I start
peace
Cyberpunky

Black51

I tried poking the starter heat shield while it was doing it to no avail.

It's tough to describe, and I wish I had something to take a video with, but I don't.

It's like a fairly high pitched metallic buzzing. It almost sounds like there's a wrench rattling in there. There isn't, but that's the closest to how it sounds. I'm going put it on ramps tonight and let it cool and have a look underneath in a bit.

Black51

Ok, so I think I found what's rattling. It appears there were 2 things rattling at the same time, causing a real ruckus.

First thing was the hard line that starts at the x-over and comes up behind the cam tower. I'm not sure what its purpose is, and it's capped off, so I'm assuming it's some kind of test port. Strange one though. Once I pulled it away and toward the hard lines coming out of the firewall and in front of the battery, most of the rattling stopped. So I currently have this tube zip-tied over to the other hard lines to keep it away from the cam tower. Anyone else ever come across this being a nuisance?

The second rattle, which isn't as bad but still drives me crazy appears to be the starter motor heat shield. I'm not sure if it got bent or cracked when it was removed for the clutch job, but I poked at it with a stick while I had help rev the engine to that 'spot' where it was buzzing. Sure enough, all remaining buzzing stopped! So all I have in there for now is a piece of rubber wedged in between the starter and shield to act as a temporary damper. I'm not expecting this to last long though. So when I get some time later on this week, I'll pull it and have a look at it.

Dougs951S

Try bending the heat shield, if that doesnt fix it just remove it. I've been running without it for years. Secondly, that hard line you mentioned is indeed an o2 test port. You dont want to leave it open because it will vent VERY hot, high pressure gas from the X-over onto your fuel lines. A spare lug nut is a perfect fit, and its what I have capping mine. Dont worry about it being aluminum either, it can take the heat and pressure. just make sure you get it on there snug.

txhokie4life

Bummer -- BTW -- we changed a tranny mid race. 2 jack stands, all hand tools.

From off the track and back on 2.5hrs -- that included at least 15min diagnostics time. Since we were coming off track -- that muffler & tail pipe was pretty hot
so we had to be a little slower working the drivers side :-)
That also included half the team driving back to a buddies house for his spare tranny -- we had the tranny out long before those guys got back - so in all it could have been done in <2hrs.

With two people and a board on a jack -- it's not that hard.
Can be done with one -- but it's nice having the extra set of
hands and eyes.

Mike

fejjj

How many hours does it take to install a new clutch going the tranny route?

Dougs951S

6 hours from jack up to wheels down if you know exactly what you're doing and nothing goes wrong. Air tools help a lot. An N/A clutch can be done in about 5.

fejjj

Wow, thanks Doug!

I thought shop time was like 12-14 hours.

If I drive to MA will you help me for a fee?

Dougs951S

A shop probably would charge you that much for labor, the shop manual says 16 hours I believe for a turbo clutch. Its funny you say MA since I actually am from boston, but I'm living in Austin, tx currently so if you can get yourself and the car down here I'd certainly help! How''ve you and the car been Jeffrey, enjoying the k27 power?