CyCloNe!'s Build Thread
06-26-2013, 07:31 PM
#47
Race Car
Thread Starter
Will do 
Ok guys I'm having a steering wheel issue,in my massive efforts to improve the cosmetics of my car I can't decide so I'd figure which would look best.
Personally I don't like wood in my interior so the one that has it I may have to change it or just get use to it. I picked these wheels since they remind me of the club sport wheel at a cheaper cost.
Ok guys I'm having a steering wheel issue,in my massive efforts to improve the cosmetics of my car I can't decide so I'd figure which would look best.
Personally I don't like wood in my interior so the one that has it I may have to change it or just get use to it. I picked these wheels since they remind me of the club sport wheel at a cheaper cost.
06-26-2013, 10:27 PM
#49
Race Car
Thread Starter
06-28-2013, 05:37 PM
#50
Race Car
Thread Starter
Trying to clean up the interior a bit make it look a little newer and fancier, I decided to get some gauge rings. I think they came out rather nicely, I had some of that funky mold doting you get on the black part of the vdo cluster I took a rug and some bleach and rubbed it done (at least what I could get, I couldn't get the bottom half).
06-29-2013, 06:52 PM
#52
Race Car
Thread Starter
Good idea Mudbuddha, I might do that or get the other one that has the fake carbon fiber center and just leather the center section. I'm still having a hard time deciding the one with the wood is 395 and the one with the carbon center is 325. I contacted them and they only have the two designs.
06-29-2013, 07:12 PM
#53
Race Car
Thread Starter
Audi Valve:
Valve Part Number: Factory Air 74671
Ok guys the Audi Valve can install using the factory hoses, so no need to purchase anything off the wall.
Here's the Method I took:
1) Loosen clamp at the coolant pipe in front of the exhaust manifold
2) Loosen clamp at the heater core (bottom one)
3) Let Coolant Drain
4) Loosen top clamp at heater core
5) Let Coolant Drain, Shake the heater valve assembly to draw coolant out the bottom hose
6) Once all coolant is clear of valve loosen top clamp on coolant pipe attached to cylinder head
7) Gently pry hose off and shake it to ensure all coolant is out before pulling it up through the top ( this is to ensure no coolant lands in the inspection hole)
8) Install new hoses in Audi Valve
9) Audi Valve Vac Nipple faces towards heater core, so towards the firewall not the front of the engine.
10) I suggest keeping all clamps loose until you have the valve in place, after everything is set tighten clamps in such a way that they are easy to remove later.
11) Fill with coolant and bleed system (Top bolt on goose neck on cylinder head)
12) Go to Buffalo Wild Wings and eat Blazin', Why Cause You Are The Man!
Valve Part Number: Factory Air 74671
Ok guys the Audi Valve can install using the factory hoses, so no need to purchase anything off the wall.
Here's the Method I took:
1) Loosen clamp at the coolant pipe in front of the exhaust manifold
2) Loosen clamp at the heater core (bottom one)
3) Let Coolant Drain
4) Loosen top clamp at heater core
5) Let Coolant Drain, Shake the heater valve assembly to draw coolant out the bottom hose
6) Once all coolant is clear of valve loosen top clamp on coolant pipe attached to cylinder head
7) Gently pry hose off and shake it to ensure all coolant is out before pulling it up through the top ( this is to ensure no coolant lands in the inspection hole)
8) Install new hoses in Audi Valve
9) Audi Valve Vac Nipple faces towards heater core, so towards the firewall not the front of the engine.
10) I suggest keeping all clamps loose until you have the valve in place, after everything is set tighten clamps in such a way that they are easy to remove later.
11) Fill with coolant and bleed system (Top bolt on goose neck on cylinder head)
12) Go to Buffalo Wild Wings and eat Blazin', Why Cause You Are The Man!
06-29-2013, 08:41 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
Good idea Mudbuddha, I might do that or get the other one that has the fake carbon fiber center and just leather the center section. I'm still having a hard time deciding the one with the wood is 395 and the one with the carbon center is 325. I contacted them and they only have the two designs.
06-29-2013, 09:26 PM
#55
Race Car
Thread Starter
Hmm, I would go with the CF one, cheaper and you don't have to mod it. The wood one is nice only if you leave it alone- if you gonna cover it up then the other one is a better deal. fwiw, the CF one looks slightly sportier...it has a more pronounced area at 10 and 2 where you rest your thumbs. Also, I like the chrome surrounds, been thinking about getting a set. Where you get them from and any issue with install?
The rings I got off ebay, every other vender that had them wanted 3 times the price (though theirs did look a little better) so I figured I'd try these out. Honestly I think they are fantastic especially for the price, install was very easy just had to roll the edges on the inside with a pen or screwdriver. They look better in person. Here's the company I got them from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-944-...a130fb&vxp=mtr
got any pics of yours?
07-02-2013, 06:25 PM
#58
Race Car
Thread Starter
Well I've been dealing with an issue for weeks now that is driving me nuts.. if I run off the map sensor it does great except coming of the clutch to first gear at a light some times bogges down and lacks power for a second but the rest is fine. If I have the TPS plugged in it does it as well but the car lacks power and sometimes you can feel a surge where it will pull and go faster. The 02 sensor plugged in makes the car lean at 17.5-18 and makes the idle rough. I'm confused about whats going on and I still have an issue where cranking takes a long time before she starts.
I've got a free chevy 350 and I'm considering saving up and dropping her in there and doing a carb or tpi setup and remove as much of the wiring as possible and keep it simple.
I've got a free chevy 350 and I'm considering saving up and dropping her in there and doing a carb or tpi setup and remove as much of the wiring as possible and keep it simple.
07-03-2013, 03:04 PM
#59
Race Car
Thread Starter
Well did the Throttle Body Re-seal today, had the kit for months now and decided to do it. But who cares here are the pics:
1) Getting started
2) My Old Seals
3) Fully Disassembled
4) All Back Together
5) Back in the Car
1) Getting started
2) My Old Seals
3) Fully Disassembled
4) All Back Together
5) Back in the Car
07-03-2013, 03:06 PM
#60
Race Car
Thread Starter
I didn't noticed an improvement yet but I'm sure there is one, I found out my ISV is not working when I disconnect it the car's idle stays the same as well as trying to adjust it. I've been having to keep my on the gas to get her started and feather the pedal till she warms up so hopefully this is the culprit either that or I've got twins.