dizzyj

Im about to dig into my clutch. I heard it might be possible to use the 2 piece bell housing and torque tube from a 968, such that next time I have easy access to the clutch. Is that possible? or is there any other way to make a clutch inspection/replacement doable trackside?

Thom

Possible if you move from the 132 teeth to the 60-2 teeth trigger set up and subsequently change ECU.

Duke

Are you sure Thom? The 968 bell housing should work if you switch to a 944 N/A flywheel and an N/A, S2 or 968 clutch.

dizzyj

doesnt the flywheel have the tics for the ref/speed sensor? wouldnt that mess up the 951 ecu.

I dont want to do anything dramatic. the goal is to make clutch changes easy

Duke

The FW have ref and diagnostics pegs, the speed sensors goes of the starter ring on the pressure plate. But I forgot that the NA starter ring has less than the 132 teeth on the bigger starter ring of the 951.

Thom

Using the 968 bellhousing also means using a different FW, the 968 flywheel being taller than any of the 944 NA/T/S2 flywheel. The starter motor is specific too.
Since the 968 clutch disc has got no springs it should only be used with a dual mass flywheel.
Also, because it's bigger and features an access cover to the clutch, the 968 bellhousing is generally weaker than the 944 and seems to break even on unmodified 968s.

txhokie4life

I'm not familiar with the 968 bell housing --

So dumb guy question.....

Is there something one could do to a non-968 bell housing that would achieve what DizzyJ is
interested in doing?

I ask because DizzyJ and I also run ChumpCars and we're on our 3rd clutch (over 3 years of racing).
New folks (myself included) are hard on clutches.

I also have a 951 that I wouldn't mind considering this on as well.

We're all short on time.

thx,

mike

CyCloNe!

Couldn't you just cut the bottom of the bell housing and then weld spots for bolts so the two half's can be mounted. I would figure depending on the size of the portion remove would determine the overall strength left, since it should be weaker if cut. I would also figure some reinforcement would have to be made to ensure structural integrity.

dizzyj

I'm thinking im just goign to replace the insides with the biggest meanest track clutch/flywheel I can buy and call it done for a few years.

333pg333

Pretty sure George D did something along these lines. Maybe check his thread details.

Eric_k

How about some pics?

The bolt patterns are the same on the torque tube and bellhousing but everything else is different.

968 torque tube on the left, 951 is on the right:


951 torque tube on the left, 968 is on the right:


The 968 has a two piece shaft. This is with it pulled back:


968 shaft extended:


968 bellhousing on the left, 951 on the right:



951 clutch & fw on the left, 968 on the right:

txhokie4life

Pictures say many thousand words -- thank you.

Think we'll do what DizzyJ says --

Get a bad *** clutch and learn how to drive :-)

Mike

vette951s

Well since the OP has gone a different direction [not wanting to highjack], for those people who run stand-alone engine management with proprietary crank sensors/triggers, I have a complete 968 bellhousing/TT set up for sale located in Napa.

John

CyCloNe!

So if you get a 968 manual trans, torque tube and bell housing would they bolt up to the 951 engine without modification? I assume this would allow you to change the clutch in way less time due to the shaft is two piece as well as the bell housing?

CyCloNe!

Why do you have to live on the other side of the US and why am I poor lol