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My GT30R Build

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Old 02-09-2013, 07:27 PM
  #16  
URG8RB8
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Beautiful job and great write up, thanks for the time and effort!
Old 02-09-2013, 09:06 PM
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reno808
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very nice. you will love it. as i have done the same as you but took it to the next level. GREAT JOB.
Old 02-09-2013, 09:25 PM
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David Floyd
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Thanks for the write up, Awesome work !
Old 02-09-2013, 11:11 PM
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Very nice!
Old 02-09-2013, 11:55 PM
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refresh951
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Steve - Who did you buy the vband flanges from? Especially the turbine inlet (2.125"). Also, the flanges at the bottom of the downpipe. TIA
Old 02-10-2013, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by refresh951
Steve - Who did you buy the vband flanges from? Especially the turbine inlet (2.125"). Also, the flanges at the bottom of the downpipe. TIA
I bought mine from ATP make sure they're the TiAL sport ones.
Old 02-10-2013, 03:22 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by refresh951
Steve - Who did you buy the vband flanges from? Especially the turbine inlet (2.125"). Also, the flanges at the bottom of the downpipe. TIA
If you are using the Tial housing, make sure you get the correct Tial flanges (as Paully said). They have a male/female design with a lip on one flange and a groove on the other. This keeps them concentric when tightening the clamp and provides for a better seal. I bought mine from Verociousmotorsports.com but prices may have changed. They are not cheap but they are really nice, and necessary if you go with their housings.

For the downpipe I used cheap eBay flanges. Search for the following:

"(2) 3" Exhaust 3 Holes Stainless Steel Flanges w/ GSK"

I used these exclusively in my exhaust system and they worked well. Bolt them down to a thick piece of metal (preferrably aluminum) while welding to prevent warping.

I had a bad experience with cheap V-band flanges used for the same purpose, but I am not a pro welder. I did not have much of an issue with the Tial flanges, which I presume was due to the difference in the way the joint is made (butt joint vs. slip flange) and the relative thicknesses between the flange and the tubing being much closer.
Old 02-10-2013, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mclarenno9
If you are using the Tial housing, make sure you get the correct Tial flanges (as Paully said). They have a male/female design with a lip on one flange and a groove on the other. This keeps them concentric when tightening the clamp and provides for a better seal. I bought mine from Verociousmotorsports.com but prices may have changed. They are not cheap but they are really nice, and necessary if you go with their housings.

For the downpipe I used cheap eBay flanges. Search for the following:

"(2) 3" Exhaust 3 Holes Stainless Steel Flanges w/ GSK"

I used these exclusively in my exhaust system and they worked well. Bolt them down to a thick piece of metal (preferrably aluminum) while welding to prevent warping.

I had a bad experience with cheap V-band flanges used for the same purpose, but I am not a pro welder. I did not have much of an issue with the Tial flanges, which I presume was due to the difference in the way the joint is made (butt joint vs. slip flange) and the relative thicknesses between the flange and the tubing being much closer.
If you buy Vband flanges for the exhaust, make sure they're stainless steel. I accidentally got Mild and now they're rusting.
And make sure they've got plenty of meat to weld on. If they're thin.. they'll warp.

To weld them do 4 or 8 C welds opposite each other so the flange gets heated equally
Old 02-10-2013, 11:58 AM
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Dougs951
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Mandrel bending solutions has some pretty good VBands and prices.

http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront
Old 02-10-2013, 12:08 PM
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Nicely detailed and informative thread, thanks for sharing. I wish the welds on mine were half as nice.

You may have been able to make the oil supply line to the turbo not much longer than the original one by using a much smaller oil filter and placing it under the intake manifold.

Last edited by Thom; 02-10-2013 at 12:24 PM.
Old 02-10-2013, 01:07 PM
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Thank you for sharing! I know how much time it takes to build and take pics at the same time. Then you gotta post up all the info. It can be fun though. I did the same, but I didn't use the Tial housing or turbo mount.

Excellent job. Only critique is that you put your O2 sensor in a rough spot. It works just as well 12" or more in the Down pipe and will live in a lot less harsh environment. Be prepared to change that out a bit more than regular. Also, avoid putting anything in the up pipe. It puts that sweet turbo at a higher risk of damage if any sensor or whatever is in there lets a small piece go into the turbines.

I can't wait to hear your post on how it performs / spools. Excellent turbo choice and a job well done.
Old 02-10-2013, 02:03 PM
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blown 944
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Very nice. Great attn to detail!!
Old 02-10-2013, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by refresh951
Steve,

Thanks so much for sharing your approach here! Very impressive attention to detail. I am looking forward to seeing more details as I am in the midst of installing GT35R now.
Thanks man! Just trying to give back a little bit for everything I've learned on here.

Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
Howabout putting a high-temperature clear-coat on the block? Would make cleaning a breeze.
I had thought about it, but was worried it would turn yellow and start peeling at some point. I'd rather be able to spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe it down to clean it if (when) leaks develop, or if I change my oil filter . Having said that, I did paint many brackets and heat shields however those pieces are small enough to throw in the bead blasting cabinet to redo quickly if needed.

Originally Posted by 86 951 Driver
I would love to do something like this, but I assume it takes a decent amount of cash and some more knowledge than I would have.
This is certainly not the cheapest option, but not unreasonable if you are doing everything yourself. You will learn a lot along the way, and Rennlist is such a valuable resource.
Old 02-10-2013, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Paulyy
If you buy Vband flanges for the exhaust, make sure they're stainless steel. I accidentally got Mild and now they're rusting.
And make sure they've got plenty of meat to weld on. If they're thin.. they'll warp.

To weld them do 4 or 8 C welds opposite each other so the flange gets heated equally
I bought my V-band flanges from SiliconeIntakes.com and they were SS and fairly thick. I always take the approach you describe when welding tube/flanges.

I will say that I probably use more heat than necessary when welding SS (based on the coloration of the final weld) and need to learn finer control. It's mostly a case of going too slow I think.
Old 02-10-2013, 02:43 PM
  #30  
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I emailed these guys a while back to ask them some exhaust questions. Very nice work they do and the reply was very quick and informative. They as of yet have not done any exhaust for a 951. Someone close to them should try them out

Jason


Originally Posted by Dougs951
Mandrel bending solutions has some pretty good VBands and prices.

http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront


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