My GT30R Build
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
For the downpipe I used cheap eBay flanges. Search for the following:
"(2) 3" Exhaust 3 Holes Stainless Steel Flanges w/ GSK"
I used these exclusively in my exhaust system and they worked well. Bolt them down to a thick piece of metal (preferrably aluminum) while welding to prevent warping.
I had a bad experience with cheap V-band flanges used for the same purpose, but I am not a pro welder. I did not have much of an issue with the Tial flanges, which I presume was due to the difference in the way the joint is made (butt joint vs. slip flange) and the relative thicknesses between the flange and the tubing being much closer.
#23
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If you are using the Tial housing, make sure you get the correct Tial flanges (as Paully said). They have a male/female design with a lip on one flange and a groove on the other. This keeps them concentric when tightening the clamp and provides for a better seal. I bought mine from Verociousmotorsports.com but prices may have changed. They are not cheap but they are really nice, and necessary if you go with their housings.
For the downpipe I used cheap eBay flanges. Search for the following:
"(2) 3" Exhaust 3 Holes Stainless Steel Flanges w/ GSK"
I used these exclusively in my exhaust system and they worked well. Bolt them down to a thick piece of metal (preferrably aluminum) while welding to prevent warping.
I had a bad experience with cheap V-band flanges used for the same purpose, but I am not a pro welder. I did not have much of an issue with the Tial flanges, which I presume was due to the difference in the way the joint is made (butt joint vs. slip flange) and the relative thicknesses between the flange and the tubing being much closer.
For the downpipe I used cheap eBay flanges. Search for the following:
"(2) 3" Exhaust 3 Holes Stainless Steel Flanges w/ GSK"
I used these exclusively in my exhaust system and they worked well. Bolt them down to a thick piece of metal (preferrably aluminum) while welding to prevent warping.
I had a bad experience with cheap V-band flanges used for the same purpose, but I am not a pro welder. I did not have much of an issue with the Tial flanges, which I presume was due to the difference in the way the joint is made (butt joint vs. slip flange) and the relative thicknesses between the flange and the tubing being much closer.
And make sure they've got plenty of meat to weld on. If they're thin.. they'll warp.
To weld them do 4 or 8 C welds opposite each other so the flange gets heated equally
#24
Rennlist Member
Mandrel bending solutions has some pretty good VBands and prices.
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront
#25
Nicely detailed and informative thread, thanks for sharing. I wish the welds on mine were half as nice.
You may have been able to make the oil supply line to the turbo not much longer than the original one by using a much smaller oil filter and placing it under the intake manifold.
You may have been able to make the oil supply line to the turbo not much longer than the original one by using a much smaller oil filter and placing it under the intake manifold.
Last edited by Thom; 02-10-2013 at 12:24 PM.
#26
Thank you for sharing! I know how much time it takes to build and take pics at the same time. Then you gotta post up all the info. It can be fun though. I did the same, but I didn't use the Tial housing or turbo mount.
Excellent job. Only critique is that you put your O2 sensor in a rough spot. It works just as well 12" or more in the Down pipe and will live in a lot less harsh environment. Be prepared to change that out a bit more than regular. Also, avoid putting anything in the up pipe. It puts that sweet turbo at a higher risk of damage if any sensor or whatever is in there lets a small piece go into the turbines.
I can't wait to hear your post on how it performs / spools. Excellent turbo choice and a job well done.
Excellent job. Only critique is that you put your O2 sensor in a rough spot. It works just as well 12" or more in the Down pipe and will live in a lot less harsh environment. Be prepared to change that out a bit more than regular. Also, avoid putting anything in the up pipe. It puts that sweet turbo at a higher risk of damage if any sensor or whatever is in there lets a small piece go into the turbines.
I can't wait to hear your post on how it performs / spools. Excellent turbo choice and a job well done.
#28
Pro
Thread Starter
This is certainly not the cheapest option, but not unreasonable if you are doing everything yourself. You will learn a lot along the way, and Rennlist is such a valuable resource.
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
If you buy Vband flanges for the exhaust, make sure they're stainless steel. I accidentally got Mild and now they're rusting.
And make sure they've got plenty of meat to weld on. If they're thin.. they'll warp.
To weld them do 4 or 8 C welds opposite each other so the flange gets heated equally
And make sure they've got plenty of meat to weld on. If they're thin.. they'll warp.
To weld them do 4 or 8 C welds opposite each other so the flange gets heated equally
I will say that I probably use more heat than necessary when welding SS (based on the coloration of the final weld) and need to learn finer control. It's mostly a case of going too slow I think.
#30
I emailed these guys a while back to ask them some exhaust questions. Very nice work they do and the reply was very quick and informative. They as of yet have not done any exhaust for a 951. Someone close to them should try them out
Jason
Jason
Mandrel bending solutions has some pretty good VBands and prices.
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront
http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront