Noob needs advice on timing/balance shaft belt replacement
01-21-2013, 04:01 PM
#17
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Is it necessary to change the rollers and gears too? Pelican parts sells the belts and rollers as a kit. Just seems too pricey and unnecessary and I might just get the belts. Anybody use the ArnnWorx 920Xv6 tool?
The balance shaft sprockets are pricey. I cleaned them and checked them. They didn't seem to be excessively worn on their shafts, so I still have my originals on at 300K miles. The same is true of my idler rollers for the TB - I still have originals. They spin freely, and don't wobble on the shaft, so I kept them.
YMMV. I looked at the arnnworx device. I almost built something like it it for myself. I was able to find the spacing, force and deflection needed to emulate it, but, ultimately I decided it's just a d*mn timing belt. I felt I could get it pretty close to the tension of the belt that was already on there. That coupled with the videos and comments of others convinced me to go with the twist method. I tend to run on the riskier side and I'm willing to take the consequences of my decisions, even if they turn out to be bad.
If it's of any help, most of the belt failures I found in my research were studs breaking on the idler rollers, but when I tried to buy them, they were out of stock, and when I asked here, I didn't find anyone who regularly replaced the studs. I just was very careful to use counter torque when installing or removing nuts on the studs.
If your rollers sound like this, however, it's time to replace them. Mine didn't make any sound:
01-25-2013, 03:02 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
The oil pump gear needs changing if it has a ridge and you leak oil. I felt a small ridge and replaced it. I was leaking oil. It turned out that most of the oil was leaking through the lower balance shaft sleeve, which seemed OK, so I didn't replace it - until later.
The balance shaft sprockets are pricey. I cleaned them and checked them. They didn't seem to be excessively worn on their shafts, so I still have my originals on at 300K miles. The same is true of my idler rollers for the TB - I still have originals. They spin freely, and don't wobble on the shaft, so I kept them.
YMMV. I looked at the arnnworx device. I almost built something like it it for myself. I was able to find the spacing, force and deflection needed to emulate it, but, ultimately I decided it's just a d*mn timing belt. I felt I could get it pretty close to the tension of the belt that was already on there. That coupled with the videos and comments of others convinced me to go with the twist method. I tend to run on the riskier side and I'm willing to take the consequences of my decisions, even if they turn out to be bad.
If it's of any help, most of the belt failures I found in my research were studs breaking on the idler rollers, but when I tried to buy them, they were out of stock, and when I asked here, I didn't find anyone who regularly replaced the studs. I just was very careful to use counter torque when installing or removing nuts on the studs.
If your rollers sound like this, however, it's time to replace them. Mine didn't make any sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPTUM4g4yQM
The balance shaft sprockets are pricey. I cleaned them and checked them. They didn't seem to be excessively worn on their shafts, so I still have my originals on at 300K miles. The same is true of my idler rollers for the TB - I still have originals. They spin freely, and don't wobble on the shaft, so I kept them.
YMMV. I looked at the arnnworx device. I almost built something like it it for myself. I was able to find the spacing, force and deflection needed to emulate it, but, ultimately I decided it's just a d*mn timing belt. I felt I could get it pretty close to the tension of the belt that was already on there. That coupled with the videos and comments of others convinced me to go with the twist method. I tend to run on the riskier side and I'm willing to take the consequences of my decisions, even if they turn out to be bad.
If it's of any help, most of the belt failures I found in my research were studs breaking on the idler rollers, but when I tried to buy them, they were out of stock, and when I asked here, I didn't find anyone who regularly replaced the studs. I just was very careful to use counter torque when installing or removing nuts on the studs.
If your rollers sound like this, however, it's time to replace them. Mine didn't make any sound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPTUM4g4yQM
Do you drive around without insurance too because it's also too pricey??
300k miles... my goodness...
01-25-2013, 07:11 AM
#20
Yep no insurance. Also to save money I bought some Honda civic rims and drilled an extra hole. Also since oil is so expensive I only put 3 quarts of oil in and those filters should be good for 30k miles I rekon
01-25-2013, 09:29 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: St Louis, Missouri, USA
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...little red/blue device tubed into the banjo bolt - what exactly does that do?
01-25-2013, 09:15 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
04-09-2013, 10:06 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
The Balance Belt is the same as the other cars; it has no auto-tensioner.
08-18-2015, 12:41 PM
#25
Race Car
Chasing idle vibration
88 924s 50k miles 5-speed
Chasing an idle vibration after reading many posts I am unsure if this will cause this issue. Most posts reference a 4K vibration. I did have this and found the balance shafts 180 degrees out it corrected this issue. Car has new MM, all new front motor parts, belts tensioner, pulleys Etc. compression is good full new tune up Etc. Clutch is new style with no rubber center. I have to increase the idle to about 1k minimum with the air on for it not to vibrate, I think the balance belt is set up correctly but will look into this again this weekend. I checked the AFM, plugs are tan so it is burning good. Other then that car runs great plenty of power, is it possible that this could be causing this idle vibration. If so what should I look for that I may have missed last time I had it apart, very noticeable with air on. Is there any other areas I should check, thanks in advance.
Chasing an idle vibration after reading many posts I am unsure if this will cause this issue. Most posts reference a 4K vibration. I did have this and found the balance shafts 180 degrees out it corrected this issue. Car has new MM, all new front motor parts, belts tensioner, pulleys Etc. compression is good full new tune up Etc. Clutch is new style with no rubber center. I have to increase the idle to about 1k minimum with the air on for it not to vibrate, I think the balance belt is set up correctly but will look into this again this weekend. I checked the AFM, plugs are tan so it is burning good. Other then that car runs great plenty of power, is it possible that this could be causing this idle vibration. If so what should I look for that I may have missed last time I had it apart, very noticeable with air on. Is there any other areas I should check, thanks in advance.
08-18-2015, 01:30 PM
#26
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
With the AC on there is an extra ~10HP dragging on the idling engine and the speed will drop from 1000 to 800 or so.
To compensate for this, there (should) be a little air valve mounted under the back of your air filter box. It is a second idle-air bypass valve that comes on with the AC switched on, to bring the idle back up. It has 2 wires/prongs on it and 2 hoses connected to it.
From what I've seen many cars had this item removed during previous services and not replaced. It really makes a difference.
To compensate for this, there (should) be a little air valve mounted under the back of your air filter box. It is a second idle-air bypass valve that comes on with the AC switched on, to bring the idle back up. It has 2 wires/prongs on it and 2 hoses connected to it.
From what I've seen many cars had this item removed during previous services and not replaced. It really makes a difference.
