Paulyy

944-106-021-24 for the pump.

Waste of money for a TT set up on the left hand side. and you're very limited on space. Unless it's a 700 hp race car with gates and exhaust dumped straight down.

If the turbo is water cooled, it should be water cooled.

Why would you put the turbo at the front for looks? More weight infront of the wheels = bad
turbo infront of engine covering belts = bad & longer time to change belts.
If you want to show off your turbo get an intake from http://www.frontrangefabrication.com/

Forgot to add. Standard intercoolers are easy to find.

And with a turbo like the 6262, don't be surprised if you do go over 400 rwhp at ~15-18 psi.

Dutch944

Thanks for the number!

The twin turbo setup was just to put an example, not for me to reprodure, as i also have to get my engine in a smaller angle and make a complete new header!

The T6262 is only oil cooled so no water is needed!

I've taken a look at the site but couldn't find any pictures.. I'll just start scavaging around rennlist

And you're right about the wear of the belts and getting more weight in front of the car.. I was just wondering if anyone did it before!

Do you know what the pricing should be on a stock intercooler?

And finally; i'm not thinking of getting to 15psi, i'll start at 6 and will probably go on to about 11 but i won't do much more because of reliability.

Paulyy

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...rbo-parts.html

probably a few things you may need there. intercooler pipes will be to small though.

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...ff-by-frf.html

Dutch944

Thanks! So i'll know what the pricing on those parts should be. Another member of Rennlist is located in Holland (Jan Mertens from Dutch Rennsport) so i'll get most parts from him.

At the topic of FRF i dont see any pictures..


So now to the real pressing matters:

Today i lifted the head.. And i found something that i don't really like. I'll try to get some pics up later but it comes down to the fact that cil 2 and 3 have over about 5cm of length and 2cm width a raw surface. I don't know yet what has happened as i didnt have time to get the pistons out so i'll check that tomorrow.
So the first thing i did was contact my engine machine shop to ask for the prices for sleeving, which really didn't scare me off; 90 euro's per cilinder (about 120$)
So that, together with some new pistons will set me back about 800 total as there is no need to get pistons which have to be alusil compatible, right?!

Dougs951

If you are sleeving, things get fun!

Dutch944

Haha thanks! Which also mean that i can get myself some compression lowering pistons which gives me the opportunity to get some more boost and more bhp..

Dutch944

So here an update.

I got the engine completely disassembled this morning and got it degreased (is that the way to say it?..)

Almost everything went well.. Except for 1 bolt. there are 6 plates in the bottom of the cylinderblock. Every plate is holded in place by 1 m6 bolt. Every bolt is tightened with a bucket of loctite.. So silly me started on the first one and thought.. ahh, just a little more, it'll hold; snap! So one of those bolts snapped and i have to get that one out. The other ones did come out with a lot of loosening and tightening.

Can anyone tell me if those bolts are specials or just normal 8.8 steel bolts?

Here are the pics:










Tomorrow i'll go to the machine shop to start talking about what how and prices..

Btw, here some pics of last saturday.. We had some fun in the snow!

JustinL

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-pictures.html

Here's my 3.0L rebuild thread if you need some reference pictures etc.

fortysixandtwo

Regular 8.8 bolts will do.
The plates are to help control air movement in the crankcase.

Dutch944

Justin! Thanks a lot for the link, really interesting rebuild. Only this what is going different on my build is that i'm putting in metal sleeves instead of nicasil!

Thanks, i'll just put in some new regular 8.8 steel bolts and get the loctite out of the holes..


Today i went to the machine shop to talk about what to do and what not to so here is a small list of what is going to happen:

Metal sleeves (dry sleeves) will be put into the engine
New pistons, for a lowered compression ratio (8.5)
Rods will stay the same(except for balancing), talked about it with the rebuilder and he agreed that for 450bhp these will do very fine
Head will be checked. The head will be machined on the edges to make sure that the "round" of the piston is the same size as the head.
Crankshaft will probably be knive-edged and balanced
All bolts and studs will be replaced. Not sure if i'm going for ARP or standard..
Balance shafts will be removed and we'll make our own caps.
Turbo oil-line will come from the return of the oil cooler
And last but not least; DTA engine management

Thats about it. I'll be putting a lot of money into it but it's better get it done right the first time than spending money again next time..

JustinL

Make sure you do some research into balance shaft delete. For sure reinforce the oil pickup tube if you do this.

Dutch944

I'll do that for sure! Thanks for the reminder

Paulyy

What's the reason for deleting balance shafts?

If it's a street car i don't think you'll want to delete it.

CyCloNe!

one less belt to deal with , Sid doesn't have them but his engine is internally balanced so really not needed.

mclarenno9

Internally balancing the individual components will only make a slight difference with regards to vibration. The second order vibrations which are inherent to the inline 4 cylinder design could be partially eliminated by lightening the reciprocating components (pistons, rods, pins). The problem is even worse as you increase the stroke.

I would keep the balance shafts.

http://www.autozine.org/technical_sc...ne/smooth2.htm