numbskull

My '86 is in the middle of a turbo replacement tear down. Looking at the xover bolts on the turbo exhaust side input, it seems it might go much easier this time removing the master cylinder heat shield. Where the heck are those heat shield bolts, are they all hidden underneath? At the part where turbo pump was removed in clarks-garage manual looking ahead... Scratching my head.

zerMATT951

There are 3 studs that are welded into the body - two go into the fender and one into the firewall IIRC. Each stud has a nut and washer on it. Once you get the nuts off, you have to wiggle and bend the heat shield a bit to get it to disengage from the studs, then wiggle some more to get the shield out. Removing it does give you a lot more room to work around the turbo.

If I was at my house, I'd take a pic and post it since there is no engine in the way at the moment... I can do that on Saturday, but I doubt you'll still need it then.

numbskull

Thanks for the info, most helpful! I did find one of the bolts so far this has been on the car since '86 probably a dead mouse under there! A while back I had an opened bag of grass seed in the garage, a mouse took the grass seed, snuck up into the car under the ashtray and ate it there. Keep finding grass seed in the weirdest places in this car since so I wonder if it's in the heat shield too..reasons to take everything apart anyway

CyCloNe!

this brings backs my nightmares of a month ago, 4times in a few weeks lol. I had a hard time finding the bolts as well I think one is near the aux turbo water pump behind some wires, then one at the bottom near the steering shaft and one between the two if I remember correctly. I'm lazy I didn't put any of them back on lol. Wish I kept the one to the block so I don't drip oil on my exhaust, I must say it is more roomy in there now.

eman930

Yea, Its alot easier to remove it whne taking the turbo out, Gives you more room, I believe there are 3 Nuts on studs, One is near the frame rail, one is under the booster on the firewall side and one I think was up at the Connector For the Aux waterpump, Even after its unbolted its a pain to get out... Also the turbo isnt alot of fun to remove eather LOL

numbskull

Yeah, I see exactly what you mean, took 30 minutes to find 'em and remove it. The one below in the back you can only get with a 10mm and one hand between the A arm and frame. Can't wait to put that back on. I'm on clarks step #16, xover bolt removal using a torch and welding gloves. Of course the last step, the allen heads through the motor mount. Not looking forward to stripping them out.

eman930

Why they used Allen heads I don't know, A regular bolt head in that area would make it sooooo much easier

CyCloNe!

maybe it was the old skool method to get you to take it to the dealer

numbskull

Got 3 out of 4 bolts out on turbo xover in. Having a flashback now, what wrench rig do you use to remove the bolt with welded nut on it, straight down access or under downpipe? It's the infamous bolt from hell. Underneath is the slanted oil pan... I can heat it up, but how does a wrench go on it? what a joke.

Papamurphdog

I don't have a photo, but I bought a 12 inch extension with the "wobble" end and a 6 inch version, as well as a universal joint cap head socket. I use a bit of pipe dope to stick the bolt to the socket and if you contort yourself just right, you can "easily" reach over the motor and drive it home. Still a huge PIA though!

numbskull

Didn't have any wobble heads in the arsenal.. so figured I'd search the toolbox deeper as a last resort, found an awesome 15mm snap-on S wrench that did the trick for the lower welded nut/bolt. On the lower 17mm bolt I used an MIT mechanics flip top ratchet with S end. see attached. Worked like a charm and didn't have to go stare at the tools in the store for an hour! Thanks for the tips, heading for the turbo allen head bolts(not as fun) and it should be free.

zerMATT951

Make sure to give your socket & extension a good whack or two with a hammer before turning to "wake" them up. That makes a huge difference.

LR sells a hex-head version of the long bolt now since the Porsche bolt is NLA. Don't re-use the stock bolt... too much risk of stripping the head if you ever have to pull it a 2nd time. The short bolt is the same as the cam tower and intake manifold bolts.

numbskull

Thanks for the info, definitely not reusing those, got the rennbay kit which should do the job, but lots of misc stuff to replace like bad oring on dipstick causing major oil leak, bad cooling hoses off tank, wrong size turbo intake hose and waiting on matching up downpipe to replacement turbo, might need fabspeed piece.. and of course patience for updating the metal octopus venturi delete, probably the LR kit i guess while in there stuff.

zerMATT951

Make sure you use two o-rings, and you can also add a hard plastic "collar" on the dipstick tube if yours doesn't already have one. That piece prevents the o-rings from slipping up the tube over the metal ridge.

numbskull

Was just looking for that, thanks for the info! still working on the turbo long allen head bolt. I can finally see it after removing steering knuckle heat shield. You just can't get a wrench straight on it though, or one that wont strip it. Is it better to drop the rack or remove the altenator maybe you can you access from above with 90 degree angle? This 1 bolt is going to take a day at least to remove.