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Refresh951's Hybrid Ultra Stroker Build

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Old 11-14-2012, 09:42 PM
  #31  
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:55 PM
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refresh951
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The 2.85L Stroker motor is out. Took 7 hrs and I did it by myself. Amazing how much easier it is to remove the motor the second time. Tomorrow I will start tearing it down for inspection.


Old 12-01-2012, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by refresh951
The 2.85L Stroker motor is out. Took 7 hrs and I did it by myself. Amazing how much easier it is to remove the motor the second time. Tomorrow I will start tearing it down for inspection.
Looking good, Shawn! Can't wait to see the results of the tear down/inspection. How many miles did you put on it, anyway?

P.S. Just as an FYI, you don't have to pull the bumper and header panel to drop the engine....
Old 12-01-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Crackership
Looking good, Shawn! Can't wait to see the results of the tear down/inspection. How many miles did you put on it, anyway?

P.S. Just as an FYI, you don't have to pull the bumper and header panel to drop the engine....

Dave - About 1200 miles.

Haha. My hoist cannot get in far enough without pulling the bumper.
Old 12-01-2012, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by refresh951
Dave - About 1200 miles.

Haha. My hoist cannot get in far enough without pulling the bumper.
Yeah... I actually went back and read your first post... asking questions who's answers are right in front of me is one of my greatest skills, I guess...

I suppose not being able to get your hoist in far enough is a good reason to pull the bumper... I would also have accepted "I don't want to scratch the paint" . IIRC, my hoist was right up against the bumper when I did mine.. I just put an old pillow between the hoist and the bumper... seemed to work, but my bumper is in pretty desperate need of a respray anyway.
Old 12-02-2012, 01:56 AM
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option B)
chain block and a frame.

Old 12-02-2012, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Paulyy
option B)
chain block and a frame.

Yeah.. and a lift...
Old 12-06-2012, 11:55 PM
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Engine tear down complete. Everything looked great with the exception of some excessive wear on the thrust bearing front thrust surface. I think this is related to an issue with the crank thrust surface. I will post more on this once I have talked with my machinist. Block goes to machine shop tomorrow to be cleaned and get a fresh hone.





Easy to see why I had a small coolant leak at the coolant ear. I will be adding some sealant here on the new cometic.



Old 12-07-2012, 07:11 AM
  #39  
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Shawn, when you decide to build these stroker engines for sale I'll be the first one in line...!!! Looks really good and I like the stroker concept and using as many stock parts as possible... I just don't your skills do to make it myself...
Old 12-07-2012, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Motosport
Shawn, when you decide to build these stroker engines for sale I'll be the first one in line...!!! Looks really good and I like the stroker concept and using as many stock parts as possible... I just don't your skills do to make it myself...
Thanks but absolutely no chance I will build stroker motors for sale. I would talk to Sid as he is way more skilled than me and I believe he is planning on building these motors for others.

Last edited by refresh951; 12-07-2012 at 01:51 PM.
Old 12-07-2012, 11:44 AM
  #41  
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Looks good. Can't wait for the new motor to be built. As always, I'm available to help.
Old 12-07-2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by refresh951
Thanks but absolutely no chance I will build stoker motors for sale. I would talk to Sid as he is way more skilled than me and I believe he is planning on building these motors for others.
I haven't talked to Sid about it, but he did mention he was going to make these to sell.
Old 12-07-2012, 11:37 PM
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I talked to Sid back when he built his motor you could get his 2.85l for like 6900 or something close to that mark. Pretty reasonable I'd say, I personally would try it myself just to learn to build an engine. Down side is if you don't pay attention to clearances and tolerances you could be out some money lol and an engine.
Old 12-08-2012, 06:32 PM
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3L crank was straight within 0.001" before offset grind. My machinist seems to think he can do the offset grind in such a way that the crank will not bend or can be straightened. If this can be done, no need to grind the mains and and thus cheaper standard main bearing can be used. My 2.85L crank was bent in an S shape after offset grind and was bent as much as 0.015". We were able to straighten it up some but not enough so the mains did not need to be turned. We shall see. I will post results in a few days.
Old 12-08-2012, 10:58 PM
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Shawn I got a question for you, now atleast for the 2.85l engine is it nessessary to grind the crank or could you just use the new rods, larger pistons, sleeves and such? I'm not an engine builder but I'm sure the grinding is what makes the stroker portion. I ask because I'm planning on doing what you and sid have done but want to just lighten and knife the crank instead if possible.


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