KSira

Since my engine broke a piston ring and a new engine needs to be built, I am toying with different ideas for an engine build. Does anyone have any experience with cement filling a 3.0 block on a 16V engine? I where wondering how much that would increase the stability of the engine block in a high powered engine. Not just the cylinder stability but the torsion strength of the engine block itself.

Adonay

I would not use cement but a blockfiller compound instead if possible.

"blown 944"
Has lots of information on this area maybe its worth looking at his engine build and maybe even send him a PM. I am sure he wil chime inn here anyways.

KSira

Cement was used in lack of a better word. I assume some sort of epoxy high strength two component stuff would be much better.

Scott H

You don't need it on the 3L blocks, the floor is raised and the deck is stronger due to the siamesed cylinders.

95ONE

This.. exactly this. No need. Unless you're looking for 700hp?

V2Rocket

Well, if filling the siamesed block might be good for supporting 700HP, would it not be a prudent idea anyways for say 400HP? Overbuilding things is seldom a bad idea...even only a little bit could make enough of a difference to make the motor last another 50k miles.

odb812

It's not as simple as filling=good, no filling=bad. You fill the block cylinder stability at the expense of cooling so staying as close to the tolerances required is best.

KSira

An extremely hot summer day here is 86F in the sun, and that is maybe 3 days a year. Normal summer temp is 63-74F and I have a 60row oil cooler to help cool the engine down. So based on that would the benefit of block filler outweigh the loss in cooling capacity? As I understand it most of the heat is at the top of the cylinder anyway.

blown 944

How much boost and hp are you looking for?

There are better fillers. I can't remember the name of the next epoxy I'm using but it has been used successfully for quite awhile in turbo 5.0 fords. Heavy equipment backing material.

Myself, I would still fill the 3.0 some. I've had great succes with it in the 2.5 and wouldn't want to risk it. But that's just me.

KSira

probably in the 550-600whp range. But anything over 500whp is a success to me. In my mind a more stable block means less chance of having problems. It would be nice to actually drive the car for a change!!

racerxrick

wow I never thought of grouting our little engines. I've done it in years past for cast iron small block Chevy drag motors (think stroked 13 to 1 engines with a high lift roller cam). We always had cooling concerns though not critical since they were purpose built engines.

blown 944

8 or 16 valve? If 8 valve I'd probably do it. For 16 valve, I'm not so sure. Either way I would sleeve it myself , because I don't like aluminum cylinders.

500 real hp shouldn't be too hard with the bigger engin and a decent head.

KSira

16V, my choice is either 3.0 16V or a Darton MID sleeved 2.5 8V with ported head and upgraded cam. 3.0 16V with sleeves is simply to expensive.

blown 944

A big bore stroked 2.5 should get you there with some real head work as an 8v on good fuel.



Thats what i have and rven at this elevation its been fine for that power level.

A 3.0 16v should make it much easier, but again, I'm not a fan of the aluminum cylinder walls. To fragile IMO. Not worth the risk to me.

bordin34

The stuff is called hardblock I believe. The only people I know that use it are people building dedicated drag motors.