need help picking a turbo
10-22-2012, 05:19 AM
#31
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Yes i recommend to get a tig welder, some spare tungston tips and some pure Argon gas to weld Stainless Steel.
Then go to an exhaust shop and ask if they've got some cut offs for you to play around with and practice welding.
10-22-2012, 09:35 AM
#32
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So with a bigger exducer i should be able to reach my goals.? Or get close lol and should i change my stage v wheel to.a stage three charile said most people dont like.the lagg
well it's a little tricky to explain becase some of the wheels are named the same even though thet are to4b vs to4e.
The B housings use a 71mm exduder and pretty small inducers. I have built about every configuration in the B family and IMO none of them flow enough on the compressor side.
The stage 5 turbine wheel is good enough, but you may want to see if he can install a 50,57trim or a 60 trim (76mm exducer variety, to4e wheels)
It would possibly require a to4e backing plate and housing along with the wheels. The center section and turbine side wil all work. Or he may have a machining solution.
It's been a few years since I've messed with the to4b's but I did try them all from h,s-v trim.
The B housings use a 71mm exduder and pretty small inducers. I have built about every configuration in the B family and IMO none of them flow enough on the compressor side.
The stage 5 turbine wheel is good enough, but you may want to see if he can install a 50,57trim or a 60 trim (76mm exducer variety, to4e wheels)
It would possibly require a to4e backing plate and housing along with the wheels. The center section and turbine side wil all work. Or he may have a machining solution.
It's been a few years since I've messed with the to4b's but I did try them all from h,s-v trim.
10-22-2012, 10:03 AM
#33
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the turbine is all to do with back pressure and spool. stage 3 would have quicker spool but result in higher back pressure, the stage 5 will take longer to spool and have a lower back pressure and also make more power top end.
10-22-2012, 10:33 AM
#34
Race Car
Personally, I wouldn't run a stg3 wheel. Plus you would need a new turbine housing. Which in your case determines that you'll be replacing about everything.
In regards to inducer/exducer. I have found the inducer size to be more in proportion to hp goals (with proper trims). The amount of blades, design etc. come into play. Since we're talking about old tech turbos I'd go with a 6 blade wheel for reference as the 8 blade ones just aren't able to keep up.
Like I said I'd try to use a 50 or 57 trim wheel. If he can machine to fit in the b housing great, if not he can use to4e compressor parts.
In regards to inducer/exducer. I have found the inducer size to be more in proportion to hp goals (with proper trims). The amount of blades, design etc. come into play. Since we're talking about old tech turbos I'd go with a 6 blade wheel for reference as the 8 blade ones just aren't able to keep up.
Like I said I'd try to use a 50 or 57 trim wheel. If he can machine to fit in the b housing great, if not he can use to4e compressor parts.
10-22-2012, 07:07 PM
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3" exhaust including downpipe
M-Tune w/injectors
Tial 38mm wastegate running black **** 16psi
What kind of RWHP and lag characteristics (compared to stock K26/6) would you guess on an otherwise stock 2.5?
IYO...Thank you.
10-22-2012, 11:30 PM
#36
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Ok thanks you helped me out alot last thing what dobyou mean old tech turbos .. The turbo i have outdated and is there whats the negitive to having an older style turbo.. i got it at a steal 400 bucks with a duelport wg and bolted right on
QUOTE=blown 944;9937125]Personally, I wouldn't run a stg3 wheel. Plus you would need a new turbine housing. Which in your case determines that you'll be replacing about everything.
In regards to inducer/exducer. I have found the inducer size to be more in proportion to hp goals (with proper trims). The amount of blades, design etc. come into play. Since we're talking about old tech turbos I'd go with a 6 blade wheel for reference as the 8 blade ones just aren't able to keep up.
Like I said I'd try to use a 50 or 57 trim wheel. If he can machine to fit in the b housing great, if not he can use to4e compressor parts.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=blown 944;9937125]Personally, I wouldn't run a stg3 wheel. Plus you would need a new turbine housing. Which in your case determines that you'll be replacing about everything.
In regards to inducer/exducer. I have found the inducer size to be more in proportion to hp goals (with proper trims). The amount of blades, design etc. come into play. Since we're talking about old tech turbos I'd go with a 6 blade wheel for reference as the 8 blade ones just aren't able to keep up.
Like I said I'd try to use a 50 or 57 trim wheel. If he can machine to fit in the b housing great, if not he can use to4e compressor parts.[/QUOTE]
10-23-2012, 01:29 AM
#37
Race Car
There's nothing really wrong with old technology. They still work very well. Newer wheels have progressed to be able to flow more air with smaller sized compressor wheels due to billet machining and extended tip technology. Also the depth of the wheels have changed some.
For a point of reference. I use a Holset super 40 which uses the same size inducer as the std hx 40 but the super uses a six blade, deeper wheel with a .250 larger exducer. The difference in flow is quite large as mine is a 72# per minute vs maybe 45# out of the std hx 40.
Again though a six blade 50 or 57 trim whelk would suit your needs well for 400 hp.
Myself on the other hand am going to have trouble finding something that will keep my current drive ability and flow 85# per min
...
For a point of reference. I use a Holset super 40 which uses the same size inducer as the std hx 40 but the super uses a six blade, deeper wheel with a .250 larger exducer. The difference in flow is quite large as mine is a 72# per minute vs maybe 45# out of the std hx 40.
Again though a six blade 50 or 57 trim whelk would suit your needs well for 400 hp.
Myself on the other hand am going to have trouble finding something that will keep my current drive ability and flow 85# per min
...
10-23-2012, 11:50 AM
#38
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Im not to technical with these cars just got into it not to long ago learnimf alot while i go so idk what u mean by 83 a min :/ also can i pit the newer type of blades on my turbo a just my housing
There's nothing really wrong with old technology. They still work very well. Newer wheels have progressed to be able to flow more air with smaller sized compressor wheels due to billet machining and extended tip technology. Also the depth of the wheels have changed some.
For a point of reference. I use a Holset super 40 which uses the same size inducer as the std hx 40 but the super uses a six blade, deeper wheel with a .250 larger exducer. The difference in flow is quite large as mine is a 72# per minute vs maybe 45# out of the std hx 40.
Again though a six blade 50 or 57 trim whelk would suit your needs well for 400 hp.
Myself on the other hand am going to have trouble finding something that will keep my current drive ability and flow 85# per min...
For a point of reference. I use a Holset super 40 which uses the same size inducer as the std hx 40 but the super uses a six blade, deeper wheel with a .250 larger exducer. The difference in flow is quite large as mine is a 72# per minute vs maybe 45# out of the std hx 40.
Again though a six blade 50 or 57 trim whelk would suit your needs well for 400 hp.
Myself on the other hand am going to have trouble finding something that will keep my current drive ability and flow 85# per min
...
10-23-2012, 12:01 PM
#39
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The LR S53 is a slightly larger turbo, so it will be slightly laggier, but not significantly.
10-23-2012, 12:31 PM
#40
Race Car
Pounds per minute is how much air the comp wheel can flow. As a rule of thumb each pound is equivalent to 10 hp. You use this to plot what you need on a compressor map.
You will need something around 50# per minute.
I haven researched the sizes ( shaft, inducer, exducer, depth) to know what will fit.
10-23-2012, 12:50 PM
#41
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I personal favorite which I run right now is a Garrett 56 trim in a to4e housing. My car is a stockish 2.5 that is putting down around 400 whp at 18lbs. The inducer is based off the gt35r. I am absolutely convinced there is no better turbo for a 2.5. This turbo flows around 60lbs. Combined with the correct exhaust turbine the lag is minimal.
10-24-2012, 12:51 PM
#42
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I have the exact same set up you have. I put a LR super 61 in with water meth. If you are getting 330 rw I would expect my car to be around 350 at 18 psi. I'm not sure why you would ever want to go above 350 with stock internals and its plenty fast for street. With the 61 and the dual port wg I start boosting right around 3200.
10-27-2012, 01:16 PM
#43
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mu 944 is quick with 330 rw its alittle baster then a c5 corvette with minor bolt ons . i dont have meth yet doing meth this winter and as u can tell chaning the exducer fan wheel on my turbo....
so before i do this build though i would compression check and leak down so it look like i have a weak third cylinder it was 130 compression and 28% leak down my others were 150 compression and under under 10% leak.. oh well what can you do... i belive i have a bad valve gonna pull the head this week if i have time after work if it is a bad valve or rocker or somthing in the head hopfully its the head dont want to pull the whole engine .. since the motor was rebuilt about 3 years ago and have under 30k on it wich i was not to happy with the rebuild did not do a great job not getting to to it .. but i was thinking if i need to do a valve job and resurface mine as well get better parts so i was thinking about sending it to lindsayracing to get a compition valve job and port and poslish it for more flow what do you guys think is it a big difference in power ? is it worth the money ? also will still be doing the meth bigger exducer and m tune just set back a few more bucks but thts the nature of the beast
so before i do this build though i would compression check and leak down so it look like i have a weak third cylinder
it was 130 compression and 28% leak down my others were 150 compression and under under 10% leak.. oh well what can you do... i belive i have a bad valve gonna pull the head this week if i have time after work if it is a bad valve or rocker or somthing in the head hopfully its the head dont want to pull the whole engine .. since the motor was rebuilt about 3 years ago and have under 30k on it wich i was not to happy with the rebuild did not do a great job not getting to to it .. but i was thinking if i need to do a valve job and resurface mine as well get better parts so i was thinking about sending it to lindsayracing to get a compition valve job and port and poslish it for more flow what do you guys think is it a big difference in power ? is it worth the money ? also will still be doing the meth bigger exducer and m tune just set back a few more bucks but thts the nature of the beast
10-27-2012, 02:32 PM
#44
Race Car
I would try to isolate where the cylinder is leaking before pulling it apart.
If it is indeed a valve, then I would spend as much as you can to get it to flow good. Bigger valves, good portwork,etc.. I have learned the hard way that flow is better than boost.
I would also highly recommend that you have it o-ringed if you're not doing anything else to keep the HG in tact. I'd also use ARP studs.
At 400 hp this should prove to be a good combo wiht the right turbo.
If it is indeed a valve, then I would spend as much as you can to get it to flow good. Bigger valves, good portwork,etc.. I have learned the hard way that flow is better than boost.
I would also highly recommend that you have it o-ringed if you're not doing anything else to keep the HG in tact. I'd also use ARP studs.
At 400 hp this should prove to be a good combo wiht the right turbo.
10-27-2012, 05:24 PM
#45
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Well once i pull the head off ill see if its in the head and from what i herd if i keep my cam stock no point of bigger vales or is tht bs also who should i send my head to to get the work done i was planning on lindsay