Paulyy

the only thing i didn't carry. I have a little box with screwdrivers, random screws, vacuum lines..T pieces, electrical tape, DME relay and other little bits and pieces.

I've blown a HG before, which was the original one.. this one is probably 2 years old now.
changing it isn't the problem.

Once these jobs I'm doing at the moment leave the workshop, i'll have access to my hoist (which the jobs are currently blocking) so i've got my car in a spare room in the shop on blocks of wood. currently i've got the IC pipe off, MAF off, plugs leads & cap off.

But before i go buying parts, i need to be 100% sure whats damaged so i don't go doing the job twice.

Yeah i'll most likely buy new studs. ARP HG? I'm not to sure off. wouldn't i need a perfectly straight surface on the block and head to get to work?

did you get the head resurfaced and the block?

reno808

Makes sense

Thom

If I were you I would keep standard headstuds and a std heagdasket.

I have heard of more negatives on aftermarket solid studs and MLS hg than positives.
Friend has been running 20+psi on pump gas with stock headstuds and HG with no problem at all, while the Cometic HG he used before on the same block destroyed in no time because it could not stand cylinder movements.

Paulyy

Thom, i've heard the same thing. i've never had an issue with the stock gasket untill now. 18 psi on pump 98 fuel.. it's all about the tune in the end.

I am very keen to take the head off to see the damage. i'll think about it tomorrow if i should or just wait and rip the motor out in a few weeks time.

Paulyy

Head is off. there was water in cylinder #3. not sure why. probably from the pressure test. Bores are clean (thank god) a few lines here and there but that's how it was originally when i did the HG 2 years ago.
Dad thinks the gasket let go but im not sure what he was looking at because i couldn't tell.

So head is off... What to do...?
- Fuel lines 100% im getting.

worth port and polishing? nothing extreem though, but id need a new custom intake? or it'll be a bottle neck?
Cant do to much to the exhaust since i've got the steering shaft there?
Cam? pointless with the stock head?

Thom

Bigger intake valves and a 9R cam will help up top, even wit the stock intake and head ports untouched. Stock manifolds can remain.

Just for the sake of it, check if you haven't bent a rod by checking the height of piston crowns relatively to cylinder tops at each TDC.

Paulyy

i was just reading that the head and intake flows around the same amount and the stock intake has un equal flow through each runner. (LR website) so the head and intake flow the same amount. so if i get headwork i'll need either intake work or a custom intake.

I'm not sure if i could just hack up the stock intake and make a custom one.

Good point, tomorrow i'll go measure the distance and see.

thingo

I am not sure if I would believe everything you read on the internet, I had my intake honed and my head ported, the intake outflowed the head before and after. My manifold was pretty even too, even before the honing.

Paulyy

oh really? i just use the things i read as a reference.

So it'll make more sense if i took my head and intake in at the same time and get them flow matched ect?

thingo

I just had my intake extrude honed, but my head went to a different specialist, so they are not matched, but I had the head off so it seemed a good idea, but the increase in flow didn't result in an equivalent hp gain.

Paulyy

oh really?

because the head is off it's more of a should i do it or shouldn't i do it.

The way i personally see it as you need to do it as a head cam intake to get proper gains. but if i can gain i'll go for it, if it's not really worth it for a street performance engine i'll leave it. i might just make a custom intake and see what i could gain with that.

thingo

I got more horsepower, I do think it is worthwhile, but 20% increase in flow did not give me 20% more hp, so you have to keep that in mind.I did put a bigger throttle body on as well, (rb25 couple of mm bigger), that gave me a few horses. The head is the bottleneck so you can't expect much improvement from a different manifold without a lot of headwork.

Thom

+1 on everything Rod said.

My 3.0 is real fast with the std intake (only port-matched to 2.7 intake ports), but it's got the 48mm intake valves of the stock 2.7 head, so you can keep the intake as is now and just work on the head. The point is that you could always modify the intake later. It's good to go step by step to figure out for yourself what each mod brings instead of modifying everything in one shot and not really understanding how the physics have evolved.
The stock intake is really good for low and mid range torque, and I don't think you want to shift the power band up top given how "late" you already reach peak boost...

DDP

I agree with this to a certain extent. If you're only going to run up to 20 psi on stock compression, then stock head studs are fine. However, above 22 to 23 psi we're getting head lift. Now this could be related to the stock studs, or not. If you plan more than that, studs might be something to look at. I have yet to figure out the issue. This is stock studs, stock gasket but very aggressive timing.

Paulyy

yeah i don't & wont expect to gain as much hp as i gain on head flow.
I'll speak to the guy who'll machine the head true and see what can be done if it's worth it or not.

Good point Thom.

I don't think i plan on pushing more boost then 20 on e85.
But if i can achieve the same power with lower boost by head work ect, i'll do so.