White_951

Well, I completed my vacuum circuit update this weekend, added a 4 port manifold hollow bolt, new silicon hoses and couplers, new manifold gaskets, etc...layout is like this:

BOV>manifold
FPR/Damper/MAP sensor looped to manifold
KLR>manifold
Idle control valve, EBC>manifold
Check valve>canister
Cap TB nipple
Cap purge valve
Open thermovalve???? (cap it off???)

Pressure tested with NO fizzies.....

Idle vacuum is down to 9in, no response when I do the LR idle adjustment, but the car runs strong and holds 15.5PSI at 100MPH....

My idle vacuum has always been low due to my Webcam (11-12in)....really annoying after all this work.....

Then to top it all off, I forgot to tighten the dipstick tube holddown bolt, which then vibrated out during my test runs and is impossible to thread with the manifold bolted down!!! I stuck a wire tie on it for the time being....

Paulyy

so your vacuum lines are similar to this?

F18Rep

Yea, I hate that and believe me I've tried everything to get that little stinker in....Bruce

Paulyy

the old "cut a slot in it and slide it in the bolt" trick works.

Tom M'Guinn

Use the Force Luke... Stand on the passenger side of the car and reach over the top of the motor with the bolt in your left hand and eyes closed. You can then reach down below the intake and screw the bolt right in by feel.

White_951

I did that!!!! I'm just a friggen idiot....

I'll try it from the passenger side.....how hard is it to get that master cylinder heat shield off??

Yep...that's pretty much the diagram I used...but I also cut out the heater control circuit....no need for it down here in South Florida....

Paulyy

when i did it the first time, i got some CRC or any lubricant, and sprayed the hole and the bolt. got some spare vacuum hose (probably 30cm/12inch long) and taped it to the end of the alen head. i aimed for the hole and started turning the hose and it worked, i tightened it with the allen key in the end.

Crackership

I promise, it is possible. It's hard and horrible and annoying and infuriating and will cause you to cuss and yell, and contemplate inventive ways to seek revenge on the jerk who put it there, but it is possible.

If you wind up having to take the bolt out completely, I've found that replacing the hex head with an allen head and then using a very long ball-end allen key helps quite a bit.. it's still a PITA, but it's definitely a bit easier

White_951

Yep...I'm gonna go with the allen head, got it on the bench for tonight...that vacuum line trick sounds like a winner...

White_951

Success...took out my flexible screw driver tool with the allen head attachments, taped the bolt, washer and allen to the tool and flexed it right in!!! Not as tight as I'd like but sufficient until I pick up some long shank ball end allen wrenches....Thanks all.....

But nowhere in my manual can I find how to remove that master cylinder heat shield. I see the front bolt to the turbo pump mount but there must be others?????

944hal

If I remember correctly there is a bolt at the top of the shield on the firewall and one on the bottom of the shield on the firewall. The bottom one should be accessible from under the car. the top one from the top with an extension and 10mm socket. It's not easy to remove the shield. I think I remember having to take off the turbo water pump also. Bite the bullet and slot the top of the dip stick tube next time it's off. Saves a lot of aggravation.