Pics needed for routing PS hoses.

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06-16-2012, 11:13 PM

#16

Crazy Eddie

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DrZ1

Will finish PS tommarrow, did not have long enough hose for the cooler to the rack. I had a new hose from paragon, but decided to just replace the hose from the hard line to the cooler. Will secure with Otiker clamps.

Instead of going to town, since I did not have much time today, I finished up the mofified glove box. I sectioned it in half, and fiberglassed the back back on. I did not need that deep of a box, and it is a pain to get to the wiring back there. Will see tommarrow as I start to put the interior back.

I did have a question for the PS. Do I need to do anything special to fill the lines? Or do I just crank the car and turn right to left?

I just ordered the bleeder from SUmmit, should be here Thurs. Hopefully it is air in the line that is the issue and not the slave or master. IIRC I replaced both a three yrs ago, but it has sat for two yrs.

Once you confirm you have all the hoses tight and clamped pour the PS fluid to the fill line and when you start the car ( without even turning the wheel you will see the fluid drop and add again to the fill line ... It is possible that the fluid will drop again when you turn the steering wheel side to side .... ... Did you rebuild the steering rack ?
Yea, I hate the wiring behind and in and under, the glove box. I have more **** back there than you can ever imagine... Nac Amp / Active Crossover /SMT6 /ZT2 / boost controller, and a **** load of other wires. It's like hell going into that Rats Nest
Regards
Ed

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06-18-2012, 07:57 AM

#17

DrZ1

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LOL. then this mod is for you. It is not the prettiest inside but will do. I was able to put the interior back together. I have a little more wiring to go, but I finished prewiring the future add ons and stuffed the wiring until I need it. Shift light, map switch, and traction control. It really opens up the room.

Finished the PS, I hope that it is just air and the power bleeder will solve the clutch issue.

I am getting errors trying to post images, will try later.

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06-18-2012, 11:04 AM

#18

F18Rep

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Quote:

...but decided to just replace the hose from the hard line to the cooler. Will secure with Otiker clamps....

Finished the PS...

Um, how did you do that? Mine was a little hackish adapting the two different sizes of fittings....Bruce

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06-18-2012, 12:20 PM

#19

DrZ1

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Sorry I was not clear, I went from the hard line of the hose above the rack, to the PS cooler. The PO had a compression fitting, after taking off the factory crimped one. SO I cut the compression fitting off and slide on a fuel hose that was a pretty tight fit. The Otiker clamps are nice. I have a good selection so I had a snug fit. Then I lubbed the inside of the hose with the ATF fluid and slid onto the cooler nipple which is definaly larger. Then Clamped and done. Nice part was I used a longer hose so the hose routing was up along the frame rail.

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06-18-2012, 12:41 PM

#20

DrZ1

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Here are pics of the glove box. Pics too large from Iphone will try to resize. Anyone Know how to chane the phone settings?

Again all the wadded wire is for future use, I did not want to have to go back into the harness componets I made, so I just left what I thought I may need.

Attached Images

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06-20-2012, 06:37 PM

#21

DrZ1

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OK the Motive power bleeder arrived. Any tips how to best bleed the clutch. When you press it, it quickly pulls to the floor and stays until pulled back.

I assume the slave is opened, just not sure if any fluid is placed in the bleeder or just pressure to around 10 psi.

Thanks

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06-20-2012, 07:35 PM

#22

Crazy Eddie

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DrZ1

No You have to read the directionshttp://www.motiveproducts.com/frame-instruct.htm
you fill the bleeder with a full can of brake fluid
First, if you can get someone to help don't do this yourself
Two if you are doing this alone ... then just use the power bleeder and bleed the at the bleed screw valve in the master.
I tied a rope on the pedal and when it went to the floor, I just tugged the rope and pulled it back up... I think there are a few posts on this on Rennlist
Whatever you do dont get any fluid on the paint of the car !!
Hope that helps
Regards
Ed

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06-22-2012, 08:02 PM

#23

DrZ1

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Well, must have a leak somewhere. The Motive will not hold pressure at 11 psi, it slowly bleeds down. I looked and could not see any leaks. Unless air is leaking where the clutch is not bleed.

I just tightned the otiker clamps on the Motive just in case.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Edit looks like the tool is what is leaking leaking. Should I just procede anyway? It will be a while before I could get the replacment, and going OOT next weekend.

Last edited by DrZ1; 06-22-2012 at 08:18 PM.

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06-22-2012, 08:17 PM

#24

Crazy Eddie

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DrZ1

Sadly no ... I have just gone to the limit of my knowledge base
Are you sure its not leaking from the cap ?? I would think u would see fluid dripping out ... Check and make sure that under the pedal is dry ( on the carpet )
I am sorry ... Maybe someone else can chime in

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06-22-2012, 08:39 PM

#25

DrZ1

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Eddited before your reply I think. The tool is leaking. So not sure about the system. Should I try to bleed anyway?

Thanks

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06-22-2012, 08:47 PM

#26

Crazy Eddie

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DrZ1

Eddited before your reply I think. The tool is leaking. So not sure about the system. Should I try to bleed anyway?

Thanks

Jeezz
I would call them up and them the to send you a new on ASAP
Here is it leaking at the pump rod ?
If its leaking then your kinda wasting your time unless u can get some one to keep pumping the bleeder

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06-22-2012, 09:05 PM

#27

DrZ1

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Not sure, I clamped it near the cap, and poured a little fluid in the cap turned up so make sure air not escaping the clamp, but noticing bubbles. I tightend the otiker clamps, had the cap on the resiviour and top of the pump tight as I could within reason.

I will problable try anyway tommarrow.

About to call summit. Been one of those days. I was trying to look for wiring issues on the PLX wideband and since it was reading funny and it turned out to be the unit. Doohp

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06-23-2012, 02:22 PM

#28

DrZ1

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I attached it to the cap and press to 12 psi, opened the slave and nothing, does the pedeal need to be to the floor or moved if not getting anything?

Thanks

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06-23-2012, 02:41 PM

#29

Crazy Eddie

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DrZ1

I attached it to the cap and press to 12 psi, opened the slave and nothing, does the pedeal need to be to the floor or moved if not getting anything?

Thanks

You shouldn't even need to push the pedal down to get the fluid to flow ( with the bleeder)
Is it possible there is a clog ?
Did you bleed the brakes already ? When I was bleeding my brakes there was so much crap in the line that I used a Mini vac and and power bleeder to suck the **** out of the lines .... When I did my master, slave and the line to the bleed valve
I was told to replace all of them because they will screw you in the end changing only one of the three ... It seems like sound advice
I wish someone else who knows more would chime in here ....

I did have my buddy pump the clutch pedal a number of times at the start of the bleeding but then just the bleeder Do you have a Mini Vac ?

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06-23-2012, 03:36 PM

#30

DrZ1

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Brakes bleed no problem, a clog is what i am thinking. I will see if I can get a mity vac from AZ. Other then that I am done I guess.

I may post a new thread as I can not edit the title.

Appreciate the help.

I was told there is a seperate compartment in the resiviour so I have the rear jacked higher to make sure.

Thanks
Steve

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