eric951turbo

Hi all.

Before I took the initiative to work on my car by myself, I had my mechanic installed my Vitesse Maf kit and wastegate for me.

He did the Venturi delete, also installed new hoses for the wastegate : Some 1/4'' instead of the regular 5/32"

I am presently searching for an overboost & running rich problem (fuel shuts off at wot (high rpm) and I will change next week all the other / old vacuum lines (waiting for UPS to deliver the LR vacuum hose kit)

My Question : Does anybody knows if it makes a difference in using 1/4'' lines instead of 5/32'' for the wastegate? Could this be affecting something?

I'm getting frustrated, I've been searching for my running rich problem for over 2 years. I don't have a wideband to measure, but the car always as a strong fuel smell after or during wot. So strong that I'm having problem to breed, eyes itching etc...

Sor far, to fix the problem, I've done:
-new tps
-new 02 sensor
-new coil
-new engine temp sensor
-cleaned all my grounds
-new filter
-new spark plugs

On top of that, I had a fuel shut down yesterday during wot.

I've read on Clark about cracks in the vacuum lines. The ones for the wastegate are new, but the other ones are old.

So next week, I will:
- New Vacuum hoses everywhere
- New Mag Ignition wires
- New Distributor cap
- New rotor cap

(will let know on this thread if it made a difference).

after that, I won't know what to change anymore.

Other than that, the car is running great, idle, oil pressure etc... It's running great for somebody that just wants to cruise around (without going w.o.t.), but that's not my goal.

So back to my question Does anybody knows if it makes a difference in using 1/4'' lines instead of 5/32'' for the dual port wastegate? Could this be affecting anything?

thanks

fast951

Unless there is a vacuum leak, the hose size 1/4 vs. 5/32 will not affect AFRs.
However the ground connection would as you determined in this Thread

Have you addressed the engine/chassis grounds?

Black51

What about fuel rail.

eric951turbo

Bump:

eric951turbo

I've replaced the fuel rail last summer. The threads on the front where tired, found a good used one for a good price

eric951turbo

Thanks John for the vacuum line size response.
I will next week remove the intake and fuel rail off and take pictures of all grounds.
This will be a good future thread,

All grounds to chassis where brushed and cleaned.

I really want to makesure I'm not missing any grounds on the car. As per the 944online referral is for a na.

eric951turbo

FINALLY, after two years of searching, the car runs like a champ.

The problem was the idle adjustment.

Before I found the problem I :

- replace all ignition wires
- new dist. cap
- new rotor
- new spark plugs
- the intake wasn't sitting properly with my vitesse stage 1 turbo, I may of had a small leak. I did this : http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/TBSCREW.html
- Cleaned all grounds
- Replaced all vacuums with LR kit
- Made sure every hoses where tight
- Installed a new TPS connector http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...ector-944turbo
- Rebuilt my throttle body with reseal kit http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...roducts_id=181
- Replaced the tps last year
- Replaced the coil last year
- Replaced the 02 sensor last year
- brand new Injectors and 3bar reg. from Vitesse that came with maf kit (2 years old)
- new engine temp. sensor
- Cleaned the Idle control valve with carb. cleaner and then shot a little wd40 in it.

The problem was still not fixed... Running rich, backfires, lots of popping sounds, rough idle.

And on top of all that, I've paid 2 qualified 944 mechanics searched the problem over the last two years, never found the problem.

I was to point of giving up. I've been exchanging emails with John at Vitesse for the last 2 years about the subject. But John always gave me hope, suggesting new things, so I wouldn't let go.

My next things in my mind was to:
- Have the injectors checked and cleaned
- Replace the tps (again)
- Replace the O2 sensor (again)
- Get a new ICV
- Change the head gasket for a 3rd time in 2 years.
- Find a new dme...
- started doubting the Vitesse maf functionality, wanted to reinstall my old afm, original injectors and 2.5 bar reg.

until......

I found this last night http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/IDLE944T.html

and realized I never did the Step 3. JUMPING THE IDLE STABILIZER.

NOW, I can finally adjust the idle screw at 1/2 turn open (never was able to do that since I own the car).

THE IDLE IS GREAT (840 +/-20 RPM)
THE CAR RUNS GREAT. NOT RUNNING ROUGH ANYMORE. NO MORE BACKFIRING.
THE CAR SMELLS GREAT. NO MORE FUEL SMELL SMELL, NO MORE HEADACHES.
THE POWER IS AMAZING.
THE RIDE IS AMAZING.

I'M WRITING IN CAPITAL CAPS BECAUSE I'M SO HAPPY.

What a waste of time and money. I should of done that from the beginning. Being said, at least I know I have all new parts on my car, and I've learned a lot.

Ben951S

Help us noobs out by posting pictures of where steps 1, 2, 3, and 4 are talking about. Camera phone pics are fine!

Reimu

All of that was caused just by idle speed adjustment being off?

Tedro951

I'm with Reimu.....

fast951

Eric, Glad you got your car running the way it should.

I believe you had multiple issues not just one, faulty grounds and Idle settings are the main ones. I think you also had a few vacuum leaks, which were corrected in the process.

In any event, glad you addressed the issues so you can experience the proper way your car should run.

eric951turbo

I just came back from a good ride. It's funny how to can fall in love with a car, even if you had it for 3 years. It runs great. I had a chance to readjust the turbo psi to 15... amazing power. just amazing.
Got to love that 3rd gear.

I'm finally gonna be able to go to the track next monday. Last time I went, waiting in line for our session, I was revving the engine a bit with White Honda Prelude behind me. After the session, the Prelude guy came to me all pissed off because he add a huge black spot on his bumper lol. I was running way too rich.

eric951turbo

There's no need to take pictures of the steps.. just go to http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/IDLE944T.html

Everything is well explained.

Jherriott

Is the jumper wire just used while you are setting the idle screw? or is it left on?

Scott H

Just when you're adjusting the idle. The jumper moves the Idle Control Valve to a preset position so you're not fighting the ICV while changing your idle.