Double Disk Clutch on 951?
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Not at all. The KEP1/Cup disk combo is holding strong and as smooth as a factory clutch in every way. I've had the 3L just over 19psi with no slipping, so all is good for now. I'm just mulling (day dreaming) options for significantly more power.
#4
Rennlist Member
pm sent.
#6
Rennlist Member
Not sure I agree entirely with that last statement Brian. There's a whole other 8 valves that could be introduced. Not that there's anything seemingly wrong with Tom's current setup. Guess he must be doing it just because he can.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
I have to say I was very happy with the South Bend setup for those 25 or so laps. I'm looking at something like Tom for the future though.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I really like the factory-smooth KEP/Cup clutch in the car now (first entirely smooth clutch I've had with this motor), and it has held without slipping up to 19 psi, so all good. However, I'm always on the look out for the holy grail clutch -- factory smooth and able to hold 800 ft. lbs. -- since I'm always in pursuit of just a tad more power...
Southbend was great, but had just a touch of shutter from stop lights I wanted to eliminate.
BTW, I've got nothing against the V8 conversions, and am impressed with everything about the LS motors. If I did a swap, it would be a street legal 968 turbo look-alike with a nice LS motor (or a 924S looking bone stock). I just don't have the time right now and would be on a steep learning curve re all things LS-motors.... Someday...
#10
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Official Jack off extinguisher
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Spec Clutchmaster Sachs and Tilton make twin discs that can be modified to fit a 951.
Total overkill unless one is making 650 Mustang not Dynojet hp/tq + and is into drag racing. They chatter and are a bear to drive on stop and go It even gets worse if one uses sintered discs but they do hold all the power and some.
Need a rebuild every ten k or so if you beat on them .
Pricepoint is roughly $2500 to 5000 with the Tilton and Sachs race the most expensive ones.
Total overkill unless one is making 650 Mustang not Dynojet hp/tq + and is into drag racing. They chatter and are a bear to drive on stop and go It even gets worse if one uses sintered discs but they do hold all the power and some.
Need a rebuild every ten k or so if you beat on them .
Pricepoint is roughly $2500 to 5000 with the Tilton and Sachs race the most expensive ones.
#11
We went with the south bend and it feels like stock but started to slip on the dyno at 500rwhp. I wanted to change the clutch but was told that I should not have any problems on the street as there is less load driving.
A clutch with more force is a poblem for the clutch fork and if you get around the clutch fork problem the bellhousings have been known to crack is what I have been told.
The driveline is the rate limiting step on these cars now so I too am interested in options for the future.
A clutch with more force is a poblem for the clutch fork and if you get around the clutch fork problem the bellhousings have been known to crack is what I have been told.
The driveline is the rate limiting step on these cars now so I too am interested in options for the future.
#12
Rennlist Member
The chatter is not an issue on a track focused or full race car. On a daily or pure road car it would get a bit annoying. Having used a 6 puk before it was pretty brutal on the street when taking off and worse when reversing, but it was awesome on the track for the brief time I used it. No transmission 'smudge' when disengaging the clutch. Wouldn't mind trying it again one-day. I'm looking at a custom triple plate setup for the racemotor.
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Spec Clutchmaster Sachs and Tilton make twin discs that can be modified to fit a 951.
Total overkill unless one is making 650 Mustang not Dynojet hp/tq + and is into drag racing. They chatter and are a bear to drive on stop and go It even gets worse if one uses sintered discs but they do hold all the power and some.
Need a rebuild every ten k or so if you beat on them .
Pricepoint is roughly $2500 to 5000 with the Tilton and Sachs race the most expensive ones.
Total overkill unless one is making 650 Mustang not Dynojet hp/tq + and is into drag racing. They chatter and are a bear to drive on stop and go It even gets worse if one uses sintered discs but they do hold all the power and some.
Need a rebuild every ten k or so if you beat on them .
Pricepoint is roughly $2500 to 5000 with the Tilton and Sachs race the most expensive ones.