Hybrid stroker project
#16
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#17
Race Car
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I havnt seen an assembled price. However, from research here is a few prices just for the main components.
3.0 crank core...minimum 750.-900. Add at least some machine work 250.
Pistons set of four.... 1200.
Rods set of four 1000-1400
This is already above my full build.
This doesn't include bearings, gaskets, machine work etc.
#19
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I'm sure there are a lot of engine build newbs that find this interesting (like me), so let me ask the dumb questions:
You started with a 2.5L crank? How much did it cost to have it offset ground? Would it be cheaper to get a 3.0L crank?
How are you connecting the mitsubishi connecting rods to the chevy pistons? Custom wrist pins?
What made you select those rods and pistons? Also, how did you know what rod would have the right length, big/small end sizes, etc?
I've read that post that talks about rod angle. How is the rod angle in this engine going to be?
It looks like a really cool project and I'm really interested to see how it turns out.
You started with a 2.5L crank? How much did it cost to have it offset ground? Would it be cheaper to get a 3.0L crank?
How are you connecting the mitsubishi connecting rods to the chevy pistons? Custom wrist pins?
What made you select those rods and pistons? Also, how did you know what rod would have the right length, big/small end sizes, etc?
I've read that post that talks about rod angle. How is the rod angle in this engine going to be?
It looks like a really cool project and I'm really interested to see how it turns out.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#21
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I'm sure there are a lot of engine build newbs that find this interesting (like me), so let me ask the dumb questions:
You started with a 2.5L crank? How much did it cost to have it offset ground? Would it be cheaper to get a 3.0L crank?
How are you connecting the mitsubishi connecting rods to the chevy pistons? Custom wrist pins?
What made you select those rods and pistons? Also, how did you know what rod would have the right length, big/small end sizes, etc?
I've read that post that talks about rod angle. How is the rod angle in this engine going to be?
It looks like a really cool project and I'm really interested to see how it turns out.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You started with a 2.5L crank? How much did it cost to have it offset ground? Would it be cheaper to get a 3.0L crank?
How are you connecting the mitsubishi connecting rods to the chevy pistons? Custom wrist pins?
What made you select those rods and pistons? Also, how did you know what rod would have the right length, big/small end sizes, etc?
I've read that post that talks about rod angle. How is the rod angle in this engine going to be?
It looks like a really cool project and I'm really interested to see how it turns out.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Yes I started with a 2.5 crank. With grinding, nitriding, balancing (whole rotating assy) it was around 700.
I chose the pistons based on my past experience and knowledge of Chevy engines. Actually the whole idea was prompted based on some of the engines I've built in the past ie; 355,383,406 sbc.
The rods were selected based on quite a bit of research regarding big end width. The Mitsubishi size is the only one close to factory width. The length is almost identical to the Porsche length so rod ratio is the same as most 2.8's. These engines have a very good rod ratio factory and mine comes out to 1.75:1 which from my past experience is far longer than necessary. I have had good luck running 1.6 ratios to 8000 rpm so this should be very sufficient.
As to how they are fit; they are custom machined to fit the Chevy pin. In the future builds I will use custom pistons that will be using the Mitsubishi pin hole.
I have stated before that I wanted stronger rods and smaller pins for oiling, so I stroked it at the same time.
I hope this answers any questions you had. If you'd like to know more just ask
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#24
Race Car
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#25
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It looks like a really good build and it uses the 2.5 crank which is easy to get. I will be looking in on this tread to see how it works out. Anyone who has driven a 2.8L will tell you there is a lot of difference in the performance....it really wakes up the car.
Great idea BTW!!
Great idea BTW!!
#26
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Good luck with all this Sid. Might be something to post on all those V8 swap threads once you're done.
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#28
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Meh, they can do what they want. I just like playing with this engine. I'm not here to push anything on anyone. Once you build a few 2000-3000 plus engines it's all just about maximizing the combo. To each their own.
#29
Race Car
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I'm not sure I understand your statement/question?? I'm well aware that the 2.8 has been around quite sometime. I'm just taking a slightly different approach using smaller rodjournals and a 2.5 crank. If I were using a 3.0 block or crank, I'd be building something around 3.-3.4liter.
#30
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Sid. My house is close enough to your that I want to make sure the pistons stay IN the block. If I am eating dinner and a piston comes through my roof....I have an idea where it came from...
-Dana
-Dana