bumper87

So i'm pretty new to tuning. This set up came with the car (running with a huntley MAF and Huntly 3bar FPR) also 55lb injectors, weltmeister 7200 chips, and k27/6. My question is this:

does anybody use this set up? and i know its a dinosaur but i don't have the money to upgrade, i also realize there are much better tuning options. Just trying to get some hints on maximizing the performance with correct tune dial ins.

the pic is what i have but i just got it off the net, not my car/setup

mtnman82

Never used this setup, but I would think you'd want a wideband O2 sensor and a way to datalog. Log and tune as best you can with the *****.

bumper87

Sorry its called and ARC2 (with the 4 *****)

and ARM1 (A/F meter)

Bri Bro

You already covered this but I would get a used MAFTERBURNER or SMT-6 which are orders of magnitude better.

OK, here is the link to the information, it is a ARC 2 since it has 4 *****.
http://www.splitsec.com/products/arc2/ARC2-A.htm

George D

Which chips came with the Split Second setup?

TonyG

The key is understanding exactly how it works.

I used the setup for many years. Read up on how it works, and get a wide band 02 sensor installed so you can make sure you don't go lean. Other than that... I'm sure it will run just fine.

Is the car running OK now?

TonyG

bumper87

the chips that were in the car when i got it were Europroducts. I've read up on it a bit. Why do i need a wideband. If the ARM1 gives me an A/F ration whats the point of a wideband? is it more accurate?..I have the car apart for a turbo swap but the car ran very well prior. I just had to adjust it if the weather got very humid or very cold suddenly. Just found that annoying

toddk911

ARM 1 is narrow band and yes far less accruate than a wideband.

I used the ARC2 for a few years a long time ago and it will get you in the ball park but certainly not dead on tune.

Do a google on the SAFC2 and some really good deals on used ones that will work MUCH better and only $100-200.

But most important as others said, you shouldnt mess with tuning without a wideband a/f and some sort of data logging or you will damage the motor or head gasket in time.

bumper87

maybe a silly question but can i buy an AEM wideband gauge and splice it into my current 02 sensor? or will this mess up the reading of the 02 to the ecu?

lart951

you will need a separate bung on your crossover pipe for the wideband. You Can't use the stock 02 sensor

Tom M'Guinn

The cross-over can get too hot for the wideband sensor, so it's best to put the wideband sensor after the turbo and before the catalytic converter. Near the starter is good.

bumper87

Yeah i've looked that up. Right near the starter and pointing up a bit. But does it really make sense for me to get rid of my ARM1 and put in a wideband. Just weighing the factors. Keep in mind I never plan on tracking the car or racing it of anykind. Its just a DD for me 3-4 months of the year. Can i not suffice with the ARM1 ? all input appreciated

lart951

That is correct is the pipe from the down pipe to the cat , the best place is near the starter motor where it triangulate with the other pipes

Tom M'Guinn

The ARM1 is really not much of a tuning tool. It tells you if the closed loop system is working or not, and can give you a rough sense of whether the car is richer or leaner than 14.7 at WOT, but beyond that it is not particularly useful in my view. A wideband can be used for frequent fine tuning of the ARC2 and/or if you are making other changes and need to confirm the AF ratio. If you are a set it and forget it kind of guy, you could instead tune it on a dyno using their AF sensor. The downside is that you won't see if the AF ratio has changed for any reason (leaks, TPS, etc.) and you won't have real-time confirmation of your AF ratio.

lart951

Let me put it this way, if your car was stock/unmolested I would say yes keep the narrow band, but at the moment you start messing with larger injectors, turbo, higher boost, mbc, you are a risk of causing a lean condition, lean condition leads to detonation, detonation leads to a blown HG or cracked block, cracked block or blown hg leads to larts buying your car or worst pre****sion moron spots.
Food for thought; Out of the many(many) cars that I have parted with blown HG only 1 had a WB the rest didn't have one. On my first 951 I had a narrow band and I blew 3 HG, after I installed a WB and piggy back I was able to run 21psi and ran trouble free until my car was rear ended on the fwy all of this is documented on this forum with picts, videos and dyno sheets.