Cylinder stabilization
#31
Race Car
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contact Jeff Lemons - he is working on a pretty trick head stud with integrated bed plate.
jeff@4451asr.com
jeff@4451asr.com
Will do, thanks
#32
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SId, Have you consider running lower boost,but higher RPMs to make the power you want. This way your max cylinder pressure would be lower, and the higher RPMs would net you more HP. I really like your set up, I think it has a lot of potential. I don't know how fast your running the engine, but if you have a head that flows great should not that hard. I am sure it could work.
Regards,
AL
Regards,
AL
#33
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Al,
In the past I have not had good luck running more rpms. I have spun a couple bearings. I shift at 6800 right now. I think that is as high as I want to push it. I am however, going to limit the boost until my other engine is put together fully.
I just got it back together without any coolant or water in it. I'm looking forward to seeing how it behaves.
I do think it is a great setup for a lower boost application. This thing rpms like none of the others I've had in here. It's pretty good sounding honestly.
In the past I have not had good luck running more rpms. I have spun a couple bearings. I shift at 6800 right now. I think that is as high as I want to push it. I am however, going to limit the boost until my other engine is put together fully.
I just got it back together without any coolant or water in it. I'm looking forward to seeing how it behaves.
I do think it is a great setup for a lower boost application. This thing rpms like none of the others I've had in here. It's pretty good sounding honestly.
#34
Nordschleife Master
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SId, Have you consider running lower boost,but higher RPMs to make the power you want. This way your max cylinder pressure would be lower, and the higher RPMs would net you more HP. I really like your set up, I think it has a lot of potential. I don't know how fast your running the engine, but if you have a head that flows great should not that hard. I am sure it could work.
Regards,
AL
Regards,
AL
#35
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There are a couple of ways to minimize the cylinder movement. I have been using the Darton MID sleeves with good success on engines over 600 crank HP – but the head lift problem is still annoying.
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
#36
Nordschleife Master
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There are a couple of ways to minimize the cylinder movement. I have been using the Darton MID sleeves with good success on engines over 600 crank HP – but the head lift problem is still annoying.
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
![evilgrin](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/evilgrin.gif)
#37
Race Car
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There are a couple of ways to minimize the cylinder movement. I have been using the Darton MID sleeves with good success on engines over 600 crank HP – but the head lift problem is still annoying.
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
I'm looking forward to you guys maxing that out.
#38
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Sooooooo Chris. What about building an inline 6 that fits the dimensions of the four? I was thinking about that a while ago but, well....... I am lacking the engineering resource
I do however have a good friend with a pretty high tech machine shop. I'm trying to convince our chief engineer at my work to hire this engineer thats a car nut.....he is leaning towards another guy ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Very cool to hear your trying something like this
good luck with the project,
Jason
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Very cool to hear your trying something like this
good luck with the project,
Jason
There are a couple of ways to minimize the cylinder movement. I have been using the Darton MID sleeves with good success on engines over 600 crank HP – but the head lift problem is still annoying.
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
#39
Rennlist Member
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There are a couple of ways to minimize the cylinder movement. I have been using the Darton MID sleeves with good success on engines over 600 crank HP – but the head lift problem is still annoying.
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#40
Rocket Scientist
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Chris, I like your ambition. However, realistically speaking it's just a lot of money for some cool factor. Which, don't get me wrong, I do respect. The problem is that you wouldn't be allowed to run anything like that in PCA club racing. Why wouldn't you just adapt an already factory superior motor from another car to a 944 than designing something that. There is no doubt that it will have one or more expensive failures before a successful design. Realistically, no one will ever really do this. It's a nice idea to think about, though.
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#43
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Chris, I like your ambition. However, realistically speaking it's just a lot of money for some cool factor. Which, don't get me wrong, I do respect. The problem is that you wouldn't be allowed to run anything like that in PCA club racing. Why wouldn't you just adapt an already factory superior motor from another car to a 944 than designing something that. There is no doubt that it will have one or more expensive failures before a successful design. Realistically, no one will ever really do this. It's a nice idea to think about, though.
Fitting other motors in to a 944 has been done by many, that’s just not my style. The other problem is that some PCA clubs won’t allow a V8 944 at a DE ( I think that’s a little silly but it does happen). I happen to like the 944 motor. In reality I could do all the things I want by welding a 944 block solid and then machining out what I wanted…..that might be a little over the top but it is doable!
#44
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OK – here is a tease – it’s a 3.1 8v that I had on the dyno a couple of weeks ago. The dyno controller died before I got to fine tune it – this is the first pass at medium boost – wheel horse power.
Add some tuning (spark advance is very conservative) and another 3 lbs of boost – that will get it to over 500rwhp (approx. 600 crank HP)
Nice flat torque curve for a first session! (boost controller was not set up yet)
Add some tuning (spark advance is very conservative) and another 3 lbs of boost – that will get it to over 500rwhp (approx. 600 crank HP)
Nice flat torque curve for a first session! (boost controller was not set up yet)
#45
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There are a couple of ways to minimize the cylinder movement. I have been using the Darton MID sleeves with good success on engines over 600 crank HP – but the head lift problem is still annoying.
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……
So I am finally trying the best fix. It starts with a large rectangular chunk of aluminum and you remove the material you don’t need until you have a block…..(cue sound of cat getting out of a bag)
Features –
Solid closed top deck (with coolant passages of course!)
Siamesed cylinders
Steel main caps (cast aluminum girdle is not a very high strength solution!)
Nikasil or iron sleeves
Revisions to cylinder floor position, cylinder wall thickness, oiling passages, and head stud type and length.
All stock accessories will bolt on.
Options for gas filled oring grooves in the block / head surface, special dry sump configuration, and just about whatever else you might wish.
I may accept a couple of Beta testers if anybody is interested. I won’t fully market it until I have some real world testing done……