tt9714

My 951 is due for repacking and inspection of the constant velocity (CV) joints. Although I don't hear any "clicking noise" when turning, I want to complete the preventive maintenance to extend their useful life.

The question that I have for the group is "How difficult is this job?" Is it just a matter of unbolting the driveshafts from the hub and differential, cleaning the parts, adding some grease, and retorquing to spec, or is there something more complicated about the procedure?

VectorGuy

I've been there, done that. Couple of points worth discussion. For starters, It's a darn MESSY job. getting the cv's grease free will take about three rolls of paper towels, a couple of cans of brakeclean, and a few of those big disposable tupperwares will make it easier. Of course, a proper parts cleaner does even better, but we don't all have one of those. I'd recommend having someone who knows how to do it show you how to do the first one. The inner and outer pieces can become a bit of a rubics cube to re-assemble, unless you know the trick. There are two ways they fit back together, one is right, and one is very, very wrong. The wrong way it siezes up in your hand to become one firmly stuck piece, It will amaze you how easy it happens. Here's a clue, and it won't make sense until you hold it in your hand to see what I mean. When you look at the inner and outer "races" the grooves where the ***** ride, the slots between alternate wide, narrow, wide, etc. They must be OPPOSITE each other to be right. for example, as the slots line up, the space between slots on the outside should be wide where the inner is narrow, etc. If you get the ***** in and the races are aligned wide to wide, narrow to narrow, the unit will lock into one piece in your hand and be a bugger to get free. I know it sounds confusing, but when you hold the clean unit in your hand, it will make more sense. Also, get the right tool for the CV bolts. it's called a triple square, and Pep boys has them. Don't use an allen or hex, you will damage the bolts. One more thing, use a LOT of grease. The CV near the exhaust, if left with an air pocket, will heat up and shoot grease out around the boot, and leave an unlubed CV. It's not that tough, once you get the first one behind you.

belz

I think Steve's advice is sound. It's messy ... have latex gloves ready! ALSO ... use new CV bolts when you install !!!!!!!!!
This is one of those jobs that if you don't have the right equipment or space you just might want to pay someone else ... It's not hard it's just "one of those jobs"!

belz

Sorry ... STAN

Steve Lavigne

Hmm... plastic and brakeclean, my favorite combination. If you are feeling adventurous, leave the brakleen in the tupperware for a week. If you are less adventurous, use a steel oilpan.

-Steve

Apexx

I was faced with this project two weeks ago. I looked both at rebuilding the CVs and new haftshafts. I had a couple of torn boots and was not shure of the CVs conditions. I was not excited about rebuilding for several reasons the mess and how much grease goes back in etc. So I decided to go with the new ones. I purchased them from Zims Autotechnik. They were aready packed and came with new bolts. With the use of air tools it took about an hour to replace both sides. New boots are $12.00x4 and half shafts were about $200.00x2. I hope this helps.

Luke

THey only problem i ran into was the 12point
cerraded tool to remove the cv bolts kept stripping on me. Make sure you dont strip those cv bolts.
I just stripped one while pulling the trans out and i am not looking forward to drilling it out.

SherionG

This should not be too difficult, just messy. Get a haynes manual and follow the directions, just remember to mark the alignment on the CV pack prior to disassembly, otherwise putting it back together will take some guessing. Good luck!

Dave951M

Has anyone seen the latest issue of Excellence? There's an article that details swaybar installation and in a photo of the rear install, the exhaust looks to be wrapped with DEI header wrap. I'm thinking over that one to protect the cv joints and boots.

Luke

There was an excellent article on this procedure in a back issue of excellence...


It had a yellow 996 turbo on the cover....believe it was #96 ?!?