kelsean

For some reason, the PO had two different light assemblies on the front of my car.

On the driver-side US light, the dummy reflector is on the inside of the light assy, and the lens is contoured with the bumper. However, on the pass.side light assy, the driving light is on the outside (closest to the wheel) and the lens is Not contoured at all- its flat.

Can anyone with the dual lights on their car tell me if all this sounds right? I want to upgrade to the dual lights eventually, but i'm not sure what i need to keep or get rid of. Do all the dual assemblies have a 'flat' lens?

I definately want to add the driving lights but after looking at these two assemblies i'm not sure what i need and what i dont.

*also, I have pics if someone wouldnt mind putting them up-?

Rich Sandor

maybe his lights were cracked, and decided to replace it with a 50$ GMC truck light as opposed to a $500 Porsche lens.

It's a common thing.

IceShark

The Porsche lens that was made by Bosch is not $500. It ranges somewhere around $125 to $160 for the dual driving and fog light. Though Peckster found one side for 83 bucks. That was a real steal and don't expect that to fall into your lap anytime soon.

The factory lens is a complex curve, not flat. The dual lens is different from the North American stock one (working fog but blocked driving) only in that it has a functional reflector installed in the driving side. Otherwise they are exactly the same.

And don't go trashing the rear fiberglass box they screw into. That sucker is VERY expensive to obtain new. A few hundred bucks ... maybe that is where Rich came up with the $500 number.

kelsean

Iceshark -

[quote] The factory lens is a complex curve, not flat. <hr></blockquote>

i guess i was speaking relative to the fog-only light. It is slightly curved from side to side, but when mounted in the bumper, the glass lens is basically perpendicular to the road surface, not facing down toward it like the original fog-only lens... The Bosch part#'s from the lenses are below.

wierd light 1 305 621 088
factory fog 1 305 621 040


Anyway, so if i order 2 new driving/fog lenses for say $125+/each, they'll come w/ everything but the bulbs and the aforementioned relays/wiring and plug into the 'fiberglass box' currently still held in place in the bumper?

Also, I read a thread from earlier this year where you were talking about a lens/wiring/relay 'kit' for the driving/fog install. I know several people said they were interested -Were you ever able to do that?

IceShark

kelsean,

The Bosch numbers you want are 1.305.621.914 for left and 1.305.621.915 for right. These are the euro lights. They come without the H3 bulbs so you need them. 55 watt for fog and 100 watt for driving. They do come with a new rubber gasket for the interface with that damn expensive fiberglass rear box.

I haven't gone too far with the wiring kit for the driving side lights, but a couple people are twisting my arm to do it. The big problem is shoving the positive and upgraded ground through the rubber gland in the back of the fiberglass box. It should be done with a wire without the terminal attached. Then you crimp and solder the terminals on once you are into the box. So it is more of a kit rather than just an install.

I don't know how people would react to that and how well they would execute. That and little interest is what keeps me reluctant to go ahead.

Brian McCoy

Well, there's at least one person hounding Dan for just this.... Hopefully he'll have a little time to spare for an e-mail or two sometime in the next week or two - in exchange for some money (to buy the parts needed - of course.)

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

kelsean

[quote] The big problem is shoving the positive and upgraded ground through the rubber gland in the back of the fiberglass box. <hr></blockquote>

Thanks for the part#s! Yeah, i was wondering if the original Euro setup didnt have another opening for the add'l wiring... looks like it might be a tight squeeze w/o it, but not worth the cheese for another one of those boxes anyway!

Brian -does that kit youre hounding Danno about include the switch-side of the hookup as well!?

Brian McCoy

[quote]Originally posted by kelsean:
<strong>Brian -does that kit youre hounding Danno about include the switch-side of the hookup as well!? </strong><hr></blockquote>

<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> Oh yea... I have an extra fog switch (ebay, $10). All in all, it should include wiring for the switch to a relay, the relay taking power from the aditional hot lead on his headlight wiring kit, and passing on to the driving lights. I'm just interested in a simple system (hit a switch, get lights - no matter what the other lights are doing).

Of course, those are just my thoughts - I'm open to suggestions too.

<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

lou951

The wiring goes through the grommet very easily. You can enlarge the hole with a razor knife. I originally wired the driving lights with the fog lights but it was too much light for on-coming traffic and I would loose them when I used the high beams. What was more effective for me was to wire the driving lights to my high beams. That way when I hit the high beams I get the additional driving lights. Great at dusk or dawn, I drive with my fog lights on but can still flash with the head lights down. By the way, my lights run off a new dual relayed circuit that increased the output tremendously and the high beams light up immediately. No more lazy high beams. I got the circuit from Jeggs. All the bulbs were upgraded to higher wattage.

pete95zhn

Hello!

I am about to get a complete set of eurolight assys in few days,so I can compare them to my existing US-lights.(Cost me $200,-,as they are used).But I think that the wiring for high beams has it's own grommet.It is also wired so that driving lights flash(euro)instead of foglights (US) when headlights are retracted and flash-function is used.It's all in the Factory Shop Manual.Originally there's no extra switch in the instrument panel and driving lights are on with high beams. Actually they are called here as "additional high beams".

Pete

kelsean

[quote] Originally there's no extra switch in the instrument panel and driving lights are on with high beams. <hr></blockquote>

I've been curious about that forever. Thinking about how much light 100w driving + headlights would put out and the need to easily switch them off/on for traffic concerns, it makes sense to wire them to the highbeams. This would also eliminate the need for an add'l switch next to the fox switch and make the whole thing a bit easier to rig-up. Would Jeggs' dual circuit (mentioned above) be of any help in this regard?

[quote] my lights run off a new dual relayed circuit that increased the output tremendously <hr></blockquote>

Lou - sounds like your setup is what most people would be after, myself included. What bulbs are you using -driving/headlights? Also, would you mind sharing some installation info? TIA
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

IceShark

Yeah, there is no way you can run the driving lights with 100 watt and anyone in front of you. Even in high noon daylight. Wired right with a quality bulb, you have 3600 lumens per bulb. Your dipped beams are lucky if they are at 1000 lumens. If you haven't done any work on those you may be down in the 5 to 600 area.


While I have switches I just set them to mimic the high beams.

Lou, I consider a superior upgrade wiring to have #10 gauge for the driving and the ground. It will fit through the stock rubber gland, but I doubt you could shove the wires through with a terminal on the end. That is my problem if I send guys wiring kits.

kelsean

[quote] If you haven't done any work on those you may be down in the 5 to 600 area. <hr></blockquote>

All i know is i cant see sh*t driving down this particular dark country road late at night. And I REALLY need to be able to see those little bastard skunks that are always getting creamed on that road! Definately dont want my car smelling like that for weeks on end!! Been very lucky so far...

I've not done anything to my headlights -any quick suggestions to help in the meantime while i get a handle on the driving light setup?

Danno

"...it makes sense to wire them to the highbeams. This would also eliminate the need for an add'l switch next to the fox switch and make the whole thing a bit easier to rig-up."

Yup that's what I did. I ran a thick wire from the alternator to the space down low behind the left headlight. Then set up 3 relays for fog, low-beam, and high-beam. These are all activated by the stock wiring for those lights. Then the switched power output goes to the lights. The driving lights are on the same relay output as the high-beams.

With the headlights down, the driving lights flash when I pull the stalk along with the fog-lights. Which means the high-beams are flashing inside the bumper in their down position.

With the headlights up and fogs on, when I flash, the fogs go out and the high-beams and driving lights simply BLAZE. No one has not failed to immediately get out of my way when I do this. I can see the reflections of Bott's dots over 3-miles down the road!

Brian McCoy

[quote]Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>With the headlights up and fogs on, when I flash, the fogs go out and the high-beams and driving lights simply BLAZE. No one has not failed to immediately get out of my way when I do this. I can see the reflections of Bott's dots over 3-miles down the road!</strong><hr></blockquote>

WOOOHOOOO!!! Damnit, can FedEx deliver my damn driving/fog lights any faster (from FL to GA even!!!) Wait till the next redneck SUV driver tries to take off my front bumper - they're REALLY going to have a red neck as I sear the flesh from behind... muuuhahahaaa@!!! <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />