Tom M'Guinn

Well, I have to say I loved the south bend clutch at first. My prior clutch was a 4 puck spec that I hated, so the south bend clutch probably benefited greatly by comparison. Everything about the south bend was good--held 19psi, near stock pedal pressure, and decently smooth engagement--However, there is often a small amount of shudder when coming off the line if you don't give it a little gas and slip it from 1200 rpm or so. I've decided I really want this car to have perfect street manners, so am going to give the KEP1 and cup disk a try. If it can hold 425 honest rwhp and engage like a stock clutch, I will be content with it. We shall see.

I have another project in the works for a higher output car and will probably tinker with other clutches and engine management for it. The vitesse system on this car produces such a smooth factory-like tune with control over fuel and timing, factory idle, 500rwhp, passes CA smog, john's onmipresent support, etc. it seems irrational to use a different engine management, but for the ever present urge to tinker...

JohnKoaWood

67King

Or you could use the factory location for the crank sensor with your stand alone, and keep things a little bit cleaner than putting it on the front of the engine.

Thom

Been there, done that - by then there may be only one sensor remaining, for the starter ring gear

Turbo17

I did it. It was very easy to set the gap with the housing off. I could also spin the crank slowly and carefully to make sure it wasn't going to hit the sensors. I had no trouble at all putting the bell housing back on with the sensors in place. I'd strongly recommend it.

I used a spiral rotary burr cutter - about a 1" cylinder with a rounded end. It looked like this:
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...hpaqmI6WDtRwNo

My cutter was high speed steel and I just chucked it in the drill press, held the bell housing free hand and cut away the excess material. I almost cut away too muck, so be sure you carefully check the underside as you cut it away. I found I had to hold the bell housing at an angle to the cutter to get the results I wanted, but it pulled off lovely spiral shavings once I had it going right.

Techno Duck

Tom, i also had no trouble getting the bell housing back on. I thought the same thing about getting the sensors into the slot, but it was not a problem. Just about the only hard thing was remembering to put the bell housing bolts in before you try and mount the bell housing.

I like the standalone option also.. . I could imagine it now talking to a tuner..

"So what kind of goals are you looking to achieve by going with this $3k standalone? Better control of your tune? Unlocking the last few percent of power? Better spool up?"

"Well i am sick of dealing with the factory style speed and reference sensors"

lol, for me the answer would be 'i just want to replace the engine harness'. Which now sounds just as ridiculous.

67King

My plan is to have pickups installed every 10 degrees, so I can run a 36-1 (Ford) setup. Chris White sells a nice 60-2 (Bosch - BMW, Porsche et al) setup for the front, but I'm going to try to make my idea work. I've read about all the issues trying to maniuplate the ring gear signal, no interest in dealing with that!

Thom

May I suggest you talk to Vic at Pauertuning.
I'm running his complete Vi-PEC kit which uses the standard sensor for engine speed and it has been working like a charm since day 1

67King

I have a different stand alone system.

Darwantae951

Two sensors are required, because of the 132 tooth wheel around the flywheel (as in the factory set-up). The Tec system uses a 60-2 tooth wheel with a single sensor. There is also no adjustment as far as sensor placement in relation to the trigger wheel.

The S2 and 968 cars had a 60-2 tooth wheel, which will work, and I have seen used a few times (there were a few issues that I discussed with one other lister).

67King

The S2 flywheel is smaller and I have a Centerforce clutch and PP. And a nice freshly machined S2 flywheel that is pretty but not useful :-(

So I figure I will have more pickups put in a flywheel and use the 36-1 setup I built my MS for.

gpr8er

I have the Kep 1 and 930 disc in my 3L. I haven't beat on it but it's holding at 15psi. With the torque of the 3L it's goes into pretty wild wheelspin in 2nd, I have to modulate it with the throttle. I have a Quaife diff and if I'm not careful the car will loop in a flash. I need more tire in the back but with a slowdown at work I must back off on the $$ I dump into the car stuff.

Chris White

I know why – back in the 80’s they were still a little sore over WWII…and since the 944 was going to be a big seller in the US it was their chance to get even…..surely you have noticed all the other things that were designed to annoy the crap out of anybody working on these cars!

Chris White

Yes, the stock location is such a handy place to work on!!! I keep looking to hire an Elf to do any work in that area!
Most folks can’t see the set up I use once its installed. The trigger wheel is inside the belt cover and the sensor is below the belt cover – you can only see it from under the car with the belly pan off.

For those that want to use a S2 flywheel you can use the stock trigger with the Electromotive set up. You do have to make an adjustment in the software for the 60-2 missing tooth location.

Not to me – that is one of the most common 951 problems, crappy harness!

I like it, and I would expect nothing less from Harry! No software interpolations of the starter ring gear for an engineering guy!


Now that the population of 944 owners seems to be getting a little older I think I will work on a less strenuous engine management concept – I am going to replace the standalone set ups with a Sitalone system. Maybe I’ll call it the Rascal Scooter EMS…..

reno808

How does the s2 have the sensor mounted in front of the car? or is it 60-2 fly wheel?