Well, I went to replace the burned-out bulb in the passenger-side driving/foglamp and subsequently snapped one screw, and stripped the head of the other(these are the ones which actually hold the assembly in place). So, I am going to have to drill them both out. Question is, what size bit? I am guessing an 1/8" would do the trick--anyone have any experience? Nothing like making a 5-minute job a 1/2 hour project.

 

I would also guess 1/8" but better to go too small than too big the first time.

 

Carefull with what you do here as you can turn that 1/2 project into a 3 day one. I recentially replaced my fogs with Euro fog/driving lenses and managed to snap 3 screws and rip off one of the mounts to the 'box' those screws go into (they're plastic and brittle). If you haven't already, douse ALL 8 of the screws with penetrating oil (you'll want to remove the screws and replace them with SS and anti-sieze).

Anyway, to get just the light out of there for now, drill the head off the one screw you stripped and then do the soaking for a day or two. With any luck, a vise-grip on the remain bit will sucessufly extract the remains. If there's nothign to hold onto and you HAVE to drill try this. You'll want to pull the boxes off the car so you can drill from behind (or get some GOOD reverse drill bits). Use a drill with more torque than RPMs as the screws thread into a brass insert in that plastic housing.... if the drill bit bites hard enough it'll spin the brass insert and melt the plastic rendering the whole thing useless. I suggest the reverse bits (or drilling from behind) because you Might get lucky and actually have the screw loosen with the heat/vibration and unscrew itself. Start with a SMALL bit, make sure you center-punch the screw and make Damn sure you go at it straight through else you'll drill off some of the threads.

If you do manage to mangle things up (don't worry, I did on 5 of the 8 corners), then you'll need to pick up new - longer - screws to act as studs. JB Weld them in from behind and use nuts on the front to hold everything together. There aren't any clearance issues so long as you cut the threads flush with the end of the installed nut.

Good luck! You'll likely need it...

 

The screws are M5, so a 1/8" bit should be OK if you are careful. (1/8"=3.2mm).

When you replace them, go down the local hardware shop and get some proper steel screws. The originals are Brass then steel(??) plated, and are soft as S%&t.

 

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I just picked up some new SS fasteners yesterday using the broken headed screw as a "guide" for sizing.

Brian--I applied LIBERAL amounts of penetrating oil, and the thing still snapped--I guess that is my punishment for driving the car in the winter . As soon as the weather gets above 20 degerees, I will drill them out with an 1/8" and see how it goes--worst-case scenario, I ruin all the threads--remove the light and make a custom brake-cooler

 

Be careful about how much heat you generate when drilling, or you'll end up melting the inserts out of the plastic (ask me how I know). I ended up drilling out all the inserts with a larger bit (1/4" if I remember correctly) and installing new inserts from the harware store (epoxied into place). Only issue is that I couldn't find metric inserts. Otherwise, worked great.

Ron

 

Do as Brian suggested. Whatever you do, don't ruin the boxes as those cost more than new euro code lights to replace with new.

I would pull the boxes out and use a drill press. The cost of failure is high so plan this out correctly.

 

I just thought I'd bring this post out of the crypt as I just used it successfully to deal with my fog lights. I tried using a 5/64 bit and an easy-out to get the screws out. Nothing doing. I couldn't get a bite on the first couple that I tried and broke the the easy-out on the third. After this, I went up to a 1/8 drill bit and drilled through from the back. I eventually got through all of them (including the one with the easy-out by punching the fragment of the easy-out out from behind with a nail when I drilled through to it).

I picked up new stainless 1.25 inch #6 screws and nuts at the hardware store to do the McCoy / stud trick. As it happens, though, the #6 screws thread solidly into all but one of the brass inserts. Go figure. So... I pulled the stud trick with the one and will simply use the screws on the others (trimmed to size in some cases).

All told, this wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. At the same time, though, I certainly would say that this is in contention to be the most poorly engineered part of the car. Four of eight tabs that hold the brass inserts are frighteningly delicate and I don't know what those original screws were made out of, but they're unbelievably lousy! Out of curiousity, why doesn't someone make a pair of replacement foglight buckets? How much could this cost?

 

I just had the same problem. I will try the "stud" trick from behind as well.

 

Holy cow--old thread.

I did end up getting them out from the back--and now have all new SS fasteners in them. Memories.

 

I'll second all thats beens said, easily the worst bit on engineering on the car. Who fecking let out this disign then has the cheek to charge nearly £200 for the light units.

Why cant you but the backs seperatly.

Both side of mine ar now held in with 3 self tapping screws..

If i ever get round to replacing the units i will be using my onw s/s machine screws and lots and lots of copper grease....

 

Agree teriable design, I used antiseezzzzzzzzeeeee and those freakin screws still were seized up when I went to change the bulb again.

 

Several of the tabs on my boxes are broken off ... did I read this correctly in that I will have to buy the entire fog light assembly to replace the rear box?

 

I have one tab broken on both sides, and after having to drive the car in an afternoon thunderstorm yesterday noticed that I had some condensation inside both lights this morning. It evaporated out, but has anyone found a good fix for this? Perhaps some rubber weatherstripping from home depot to replace the gaskets? I virtually never drive the car in the rain, so this is *fortunately* a low priority item for me.

 

I've recently had to do this on both my foglights too, and they are all held in with self tappers now.

One question? How do you drill them out from behind????? You have to get the screws out before you can get behind, so I don't understand that. Are you guys drilling through from the engine side of the light assembly?