Dan87951

Does anyone know of a good site that explains how to time the timing belt? I think my car I was doing the head gasket and oil cooler seals got out of time and need some advice on how to check to make sure its in time. No the valves do not hit the pistons, it cranks freely. The car just sounds like its sparking on the wrong stroke.

Perry 951

Pretty easy.. line up the OT line on the flywheel with the pointer in the bell housing. Then, line up the notch on the cam gear with the pointer on the rear part of the cam gear cover.

The trick is to get the slack out of the belt without skipping a tooth. Sometimes when you finally get the belt taught, you will be off 1 tooth. Just back it off, and tension again.

Always... always... ALWAYS turn it over by hand 20 or 30 times and re-check. This way the belt can run true on the sprockets, and you can check alignment and tension one last time.

Did you disconnect the refrence sensors? I mean unplug them at the connector? Could be you have them backwards. Try and flip if you did disconnect. That will make it seem that it is firing way off cycle.

Danno

I had a similar problem with cranking, but no start. Turned out the plastic plugs on my reference sensors had cracked and a little chip had wedged itself into the plug, preventing the two sides from fully mating. I cleaned out that little chip, replugged the sensor wires back together and WWerrrooommm, Houston we have ignition!

Alpine951

try this.

<a href="http://porsche-944-garage.tripod.com/" target="_blank">http://porsche-944-garage.tripod.com/</a>

Dan87951

I'm pretty sure its not the reference sensors. And the 944 garage has a whole bunch of broken links now. How I'm I suppose to see the line for the flywheel when its covered by the bell housing? Isen't there a mark on the crank pully I can line up?

cruise98

There is not a mark on the front crank pulley. The flywheel has a notch in it that will match up with a notch in the bottom of the bellhousing. There is also another alignment hole/mark near the top of the bellhousing, but it is sooooo hard to see, I never even bother with it.

Lay on your back under the car with head facing the rear, insert 24mm socket with rachet on the front crank nut, and slowly turn the crank clockwise(that is looking at the front of the engine) until you see it. You have found the right one when the cam mark shows up at the same time. It is almost dead in the middle of the bellhousing. The balance shaft marks line up at the same time too.

When fooling around with the belts, I remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the engine over from weird/cramped angles.

Keith

Dan87951

I had spark but now I do not have spark. Does this run of a crank trigger or what tells it when to spark?

Dan87951

Nobody? Ok Exactly how do I find the mark on the flywheel? Take the bellhousing apart?

Danno

Put a ratchet wrench on the crank-pulley bolt and crawl under the car. Look at the cut-out on the bottom of the bell-housing and start turning the crank. You'll be able to see the edge of the flywheel move past the cut-out. At some point of rotation, you'll see a 5mm wide groove that cut about 2mm deep into the flywheel's edge. Line this up with the cut-out on the bellhousing, VOILA! you have TDC. Climb back out and check the cam gear. There should be a mark on a tooth that lines up with a mark on the outside housing. If it's off by 1/2 a turn, crawl under and give the crank another 360-degree turn.

Dan87951

Thanks Danno the t belt is now on correctly however I'm getting NO spark! Geez this car hates me! Where the love from this thing even after I fix and save it from the scrap yard!

951and944S

Dan,
[quote] Thanks Danno the t belt is now on correctly however I'm getting NO spark! Geez this car hates me! Where the love from this thing even after I fix and save it from the scrap yard! <hr></blockquote>

I feel your pain, I've resurected several, seeing so many cars destined for the track, never to be registered again, somebody's got to do it...!

Cheers

Bii

Hi Dan

Check both terminals at the ignition coil with a 12 V a test light. With the ignition key on and engine off you should have power on both. If you don't have power then your looking at an electrical issue either from a bad fuse, relay, ignition switch etc.

If it passes this step then go onto cranking the motor watching the test light pulse on one of the two terminals. No pulsing means bad reference/speed sensors or a faulty DME.

Dan87951

****!
I think I might have found the problem. I noticed on the bottom end of one of my sensors (Speed or refrence since they are not marked) the black insulator has a slit in it and bare wire is exposed by a few smaller wraped insulated wires inside. Could this be my problem with spark? How hard is it to replace these and do they have to be timed? How do I know which one is bad? Let me guess these are expensive to replace? The plug that needs replacing is the wire that connects down by the top of the flywheel bell housing.

Thanks