Clutch for street/track
10-31-2011, 02:42 PM
#31
Drifting
KEP makes one of the best alternatives for our cars with the original 5 speed. I had an 89 951 running 345wt that had a KEP stage 2 using a 930 disc that lasted 80,000 miles of street, DE, and NASA time trial events over a six year period. The additional pedal effort isn't noticeable after a day of driving and there is no shudder. You have to have a properly balanced and resurfaced flywheel and I would replace the fork with a new unit or purchase one of the aftermarket ones from a proven source. My flywheel was also lighened on this particular car.
I've had nothing but trouble with other clutches for these cars. I'm currently using a 911TT Sport factory PP and built disc from RS Barn that seems to be working very well. There are plenty of 911TT cars with over 500wt using the stock clutch with reliability.
You don't want to have to do this nasty job again. One of the reasons I went with a 968 bellhousing, torque tube and six speed was to allow for a 2 hour clutch job.
I've had nothing but trouble with other clutches for these cars. I'm currently using a 911TT Sport factory PP and built disc from RS Barn that seems to be working very well. There are plenty of 911TT cars with over 500wt using the stock clutch with reliability.
You don't want to have to do this nasty job again. One of the reasons I went with a 968 bellhousing, torque tube and six speed was to allow for a 2 hour clutch job.
10-31-2011, 02:56 PM
#32
Your experience will be the second, maybe third, successful application of a KEP2 and 930 disc that I have read about.
Most seemed to blame excess crankshaft end play, but my experience was on an essentially brand new engine.
10-31-2011, 03:04 PM
#33
Drifting
My apologies, it was a KEP stage 1. I just checked the old file. The current owner is www.jeffdicicco.com this car is now a 3.0 beast kicking *** out in LA. He can verify the reliability of the KEP 1 and 930 disc, as I sold him this car with this setup.
10-31-2011, 03:17 PM
#34
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In all seriousness I like this thread. Though my clutch has yet to be an issue it's still something i want gone through as well as a rebuilt TT.
My build is similar to ZerMatt's...with the exception of Rogue's MAF, well, and the fact that it clean and sanitary
There's a lot of good info in this thread. Nothing beats hands on experience.
Tons of people love the SPEC kits, and tons of people hate them, too.
I had to do a clutch job twice because my first clutch wasn't working properly (should have listened to everyone, but I didn't...and I paid for it).
Will the car have to be back up quick? Or can you afford to let it sit for a little while?
One suggestion I have would be to move away from the factory turbo disc to avoid having to deal with the small helper springs later down the road. If they fall out, it's not fun!
My build is similar to ZerMatt's...with the exception of Rogue's MAF, well, and the fact that it clean and sanitary
There's a lot of good info in this thread. Nothing beats hands on experience.
Tons of people love the SPEC kits, and tons of people hate them, too.
I had to do a clutch job twice because my first clutch wasn't working properly (should have listened to everyone, but I didn't...and I paid for it).
Will the car have to be back up quick? Or can you afford to let it sit for a little while?
One suggestion I have would be to move away from the factory turbo disc to avoid having to deal with the small helper springs later down the road. If they fall out, it's not fun!
10-31-2011, 03:20 PM
#35
My apologies, it was a KEP stage 1. I just checked the old file. The current owner is www.jeffdicicco.com this car is now a 3.0 beast kicking *** out in LA. He can verify the reliability of the KEP 1 and 930 disc, as I sold him this car with this setup.
10-31-2011, 03:45 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
KEP makes one of the best alternatives for our cars with the original 5 speed. I had an 89 951 running 345wt that had a KEP stage 2 using a 930 disc that lasted 80,000 miles of street, DE, and NASA time trial events over a six year period. The additional pedal effort isn't noticeable after a day of driving and there is no shudder. You have to have a properly balanced and resurfaced flywheel and I would replace the fork with a new unit or purchase one of the aftermarket ones from a proven source. My flywheel was also lighened on this particular car.
I've had nothing but trouble with other clutches for these cars. I'm currently using a 911TT Sport factory PP and built disc from RS Barn that seems to be working very well. There are plenty of 911TT cars with over 500wt using the stock clutch with reliability.
You don't want to have to do this nasty job again. One of the reasons I went with a 968 bellhousing, torque tube and six speed was to allow for a 2 hour clutch job.
I've had nothing but trouble with other clutches for these cars. I'm currently using a 911TT Sport factory PP and built disc from RS Barn that seems to be working very well. There are plenty of 911TT cars with over 500wt using the stock clutch with reliability.
You don't want to have to do this nasty job again. One of the reasons I went with a 968 bellhousing, torque tube and six speed was to allow for a 2 hour clutch job.
10-31-2011, 05:05 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Darwin, did you have to break your Southbend clutch setup in? I've got one of their whole kits in my car and haven't driven it yet. The first real miles will be on the track so I'm a bit concerned about doing that to a new clutch.
10-31-2011, 05:20 PM
#38
Burning Brakes
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I'm running KEP stage 1 with cup clutch and factory balanced and lightened flywheel to 8.5 lbs. The setup works great with a vitesse stage 2 turbo at 17lbs. no chatter and great pedal feel. Don't forget to notch your bellhousing at the ref sensors.
Nick
Nick
10-31-2011, 06:06 PM
#39
Drifting
Clutches were not lasting on my current build. Replaced two clutches in less than 4000 miles. I'm running a 968 bellhousing, torque tube, and six speed transmission so I could use the factory 911TT sport pressure plates and the factory sport disc. These are very pedal friendly, will hold the power without shudder, and have been known to be very reliable with 500+ wt.
Factory parts are the best choice, but we only have the stock or Cup setup when using the 951 bellhousing. KEP stage 1 worked very well with 345wt. 500wt would probably slip the KEP immediately. I've used other clutches on the 951over the past 20 years. Many of the discs used had too much shudder, and too high of a clamping force is very hard on the fork and bearing.
So far, the factory 911tt sport parts have worked flawlessly. www.rsbarn.com provided the 968 flywheel and custom made a clutch disc for this application.
Factory parts are the best choice, but we only have the stock or Cup setup when using the 951 bellhousing. KEP stage 1 worked very well with 345wt. 500wt would probably slip the KEP immediately. I've used other clutches on the 951over the past 20 years. Many of the discs used had too much shudder, and too high of a clamping force is very hard on the fork and bearing.
So far, the factory 911tt sport parts have worked flawlessly. www.rsbarn.com provided the 968 flywheel and custom made a clutch disc for this application.
10-31-2011, 07:59 PM
#40
I'm running a spec stage 3 full metallic disk and full alum pressure plate and fidanza flywheel.
Setup works well for me with no issues.....well except for the idiot last winter that bled the system for a month because of a sticky pedal that turned out to be the 13mm nut on the back of the pedal tightened too much by the previous owner
Jason
Setup works well for me with no issues.....well except for the idiot last winter that bled the system for a month because of a sticky pedal that turned out to be the 13mm nut on the back of the pedal tightened too much by the previous owner
Jason
10-31-2011, 08:48 PM
#41
Drifting
No apology needed, and I hope my tone did not sound rude. I just don't want anyone to have to re-do their clutch as I did. If I would have listened before hand, I wouldn't have had to redo it after the engine/transmission were re-installed in the car. Those bellhousing bolts suck!
George
10-31-2011, 10:06 PM
#42
Three Wheelin'
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Another hint.
Run a Blazack clutch fork.
I have one of those in my car, and I think the tricks he does helps keep the clutch from being really heavy. The KEP in mine is a little more effort than stock. Not much more effort.
-Dana
Run a Blazack clutch fork.
I have one of those in my car, and I think the tricks he does helps keep the clutch from being really heavy. The KEP in mine is a little more effort than stock. Not much more effort.
-Dana
10-31-2011, 10:19 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
The mods he does to the fork won't have an effect on the modulation of the clutch.
11-01-2011, 01:32 AM
#44
I didn't do anything special. It didn't come with instructions or anything, but I have just been driving like normal. Only gradual full throttle applications, as little slipping as possible, etc...
11-01-2011, 10:28 PM
#45
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Ok, so I spoke with Jason at Paragon this afternoon and he can't see why I would need anything more than a Sachs PP with a 930 disc for my power level. While he would gladly sell me a KEP stage I kit, he says that he doesn't think I need it.
Is there anyone out there running who has added 100 or so HP and using a Sachs PP with a 930 or Cup disc? Or is everyone with moderate power upgrades switching to aftermarket components?
I don't have a problem paying more to handle increased power, but I don't want to throw money away either. I have no reason to believe my current clutch is anything special and it's not slipping.
Is there anyone out there running who has added 100 or so HP and using a Sachs PP with a 930 or Cup disc? Or is everyone with moderate power upgrades switching to aftermarket components?
I don't have a problem paying more to handle increased power, but I don't want to throw money away either. I have no reason to believe my current clutch is anything special and it's not slipping.