951Doc

I'm happy to report the engine bay on the red Porsche 951 has been successfully painted. It took a fair amount of work, and the number of corners, studs, and nooks made for a real PIA project. With limited time, this took several weeks to complete.

The first step was cleaning and scrubbing the engine bay with Super Clean to degrease. I then wiped it down with lacquer thinner, washed it again with Super Clean and another round of lacquer thinner followed by dish washing detergent. Some areas where sanded to bare metal, in other spots paint chips were repaired with putty and larger defects with body filler. Bare metal was lightly sprayed with an etching primer. A final wipe down using pre-paint cleaning solvent was used before scuffing the paint with a 3M burgundy colored scuff pad. Paint dust was removed with compressed air. All surfaces where again wiped down with the pre-paint cleaner. PPG [REDACTED] primer-surfacer, reduced 4:1:1 with PPG [REDACTED] reducer, was applied in two coats using a Finex FX300 with a 1.5mm nozzle. The primer was then sanded and all surfaces cleaned with pre-paint solvent.

PPG [REDACTED] Base coat reduced 1:1 with [REDACTED] was applied with the same Finex gun in two coats. The resulting finish had an eggshell luster. After about 30 mins drying at 74ºF, it was time to clear coat. PPG [REDACTED] with 4:1 [REDACTED] was applied in two coats, this time using an Iwata LPH400-LVX gun with a 1.3mm nozzle, waiting about 10 mins between the first and second coat, allowing the clear to "flash" and become tacky to grip the second, heavier coat. In retrospect, a 1.3mm nozzle for the base coat, and a 1.2mm nozzle for clear may yield better results, but I have no major complaints - both the base coat and clear flowed out pretty well. A colder day may also help to smooth out a very light peau d'orange on the base coat. I should mention some effort was made to insure clean air supply. Supplying an HVLP gun is a walk in the park for a 120 gal Quincy compressor, so much of the condensation occurs in the tank. Additionally, over 30 feet of 3/4" copper tubing helps with heat dissipation. Right before the gun, an air-oil separator, desiccator cartridge, and 0.4 micron filter seem to do the trick. At the gun, as a final little bit of insurance, I installed a disposal filter cartridge. I didn't see a single fish eye.

By tomorrow, I'll pull the masking tape, then re-mask the engine bay and begin prepping the car body for paint. I'll build out a simple spray booth using plastic sheeting and box fans for the exterior paint job. Once i get the bumper prepped, things should go quickly. I must admit, this is fun stuff, and with good spray guns, the paint goes on like magic!

951Doc

PS: Only California / Bay Area - VOC compliant products
used [REDACTED;] PM me for a products I would have used.

Paulyy

nice work!

If i did that, the only original thing that would go back in would be the engine and a few other small things. everything else would be all custom!

Tedro951

Very nice! For those thinking about doing the same, 951doc sums up the process very well, but don't be afraid of using a cheaper gun, especially for underhood.

Keep the updates coming, 951doc

dillon410021

wow, looks great. Where did you get the paint and what paint gun did you use?

rlm328

Well it is red.

reno808

cool

951Doc

The guns I used are listed above. I scoured Craigslist until I got a bargain on the guns (Finex, Iwata). I chose the Iwata based on its reportedly smooth, high quality finish. PM for a complete description of paint products, which were all PPG. The next step of course is painting the body of the car.

951Doc

MichelleJD

Nice work!

gruhsy

Nice work Doc looks real purdy

tkrtape12

Looks great...

951Doc

The left rear quarter panel had quite dent, which I pulled using a Horror Freight stud welder. Three or four stud welds, a slap hammer, and some gentle mallet work had the dent nearly corrected before any filler (Evercoat metal glaze) was applied. Restoring the gentle crease on the quarter panel was a bit of a shaping challenge.

After pathologically cleaning the entire car - in/out and under, and using cleaning solvent, I went after the entire body with purple 3M Scotchbrite and/or 350 grit sandpaper (dry). Tiny gravel nicks where filled with spot putty and sanded level. The car was re-cleaned with cleaning solvent. Repaired areas where primed with PPG K36 high build primer, and will now get block sanded.

The horses have been kicked out and the barn is now a paint booth. I realized you can never have enough duct tape. A few box fans provide horizontal air flow, which is not ideal, but better than nothing. It's been interesting playing with air in/out ratios. Too much exhaust pull and the flimsy plastic walls bow inward. I hope to shoot color this week before things get cold and wet around here.

951Doc

67King

Doc, looking good! One thing that may (or may not) help you. Home Depot rents "carpet dryers," which are the big turbine style fans. They move a LOT more air than box fans. I've painted both ways, and unless you can move a lot of air, you'll be painting in a fog. You will have to do more to keep the plastic in place, but it is definately worth the effort.

Also, is the car in the sig yours? 89 Glacier? I posted somethign trying to track down those cars, as I understand they are quite rare, and I have one.

Everyone else considering DIYing it - a good gun goes a LONG way in keeping post paint work (i.e. wet sanding and buffing) from getting rediculous. I've painted with inexpensive guns (DeVilbliss Finish Line) and more expensive guns (DeVilbliss Plus - which isn't nearly as spendy as the nicer Iwatas, etc.). No comparison, definately worth the extra you'll spend.

Rick

It's obvious to me that you need some additional practice...when would you like me to bring my race far over for a respray?

951Doc

Thanks for the tip on the carpet dryer. It may work out well to run a fat pipe or duct under the car with an intake plenum to create a downdraft exhaust. I have to say though, the Iwata LPH gun I'm using lays the stuff on with very little overspray, as long as I set the cap pressure correctly.

My avatar pic is another 951 my son and I restored. I think the official color is light sapphire blue, but I could be wrong.

951Doc

The thermometer finally hit the mid 60's today, warm enough for me to shoot base coat and clear. I hit the entire car with PPG K36 primer/sealer and sanded to 400 grit. Next I'll color sand and buff the clear coat. There's a few clear coat runs to correct as well, but these should come off with a razor and 1000+ grit wet sanding.

The results came out pretty good, but in the future I think I'll farm out the paint work. Paint is a royal PITA, especially without a large, well lit and ventilated paint booth. The barn just doesn't cut it.

With the body painted, I can start assembling parts soon. I'll have to replace the body heat shields since I can't bring myself to install old over "new". If somebody has a few cool ideas on the subject of heat shielding I'd love to hear about it.

The next boxes in the mail will be a Vitesses Stage 3 kit and a down pipe from Fabspeed. With these goodies I can complete the engine rebuild.