My 16v conversion thread
10-18-2011, 03:33 AM
#18
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I know it depends on certain variables but when you say max and average it takes into account all of those variables. I'm not asking for exact I'm just wanting ballpark. It still seems more cost effective to use a V8 over a 16v 944/968 engine.
10-18-2011, 05:06 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
10-18-2011, 07:02 AM
#20
Drifting
Its looking good Sid,
When i did my exhaust for our 16v turbo i used the S2 flanges but basically the rest was turbo headers and crossover. i did it that way so i could keep the stock flexi joint on there. and the standard crossover would line up perfectly. i will dig up some pictures if you want.
Sean
When i did my exhaust for our 16v turbo i used the S2 flanges but basically the rest was turbo headers and crossover. i did it that way so i could keep the stock flexi joint on there. and the standard crossover would line up perfectly. i will dig up some pictures if you want.
Sean
Watching with enthusiasm.
10-18-2011, 11:55 AM
#25
Burning Brakes
10-18-2011, 04:45 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
I did some fitting tonight and I think I may just use the flanges from the 951 headers that mate to the crossover. I cut the flanges off the s headers and mounted them up to the head and it looks like it will be VERY straightforward and easy to mate them together.
I'm also taking the intake in to work and having a co worker send it to the guys he uses to cut his intakes.
I'm also taking the intake in to work and having a co worker send it to the guys he uses to cut his intakes.
For the 16V intake, I just used a reciprocating saw, final fitment for welding was done with an aluminum compatible cut-off wheel. Using more substantial equipment would have made it easier and cleaner looking.
For now I'm going to use the stockers.
I havnt even looked up the specs yet. In the process I will probably find something about using twin cam gears so I can get them dialed in the way I want. For now though I just want to get the fab work done.
The head flows so much better than the 8v that it shouldn't matter too much how big the cams are as long as they can be timed to have wide lobe separation and minimal overlap.
I havnt even looked up the specs yet. In the process I will probably find something about using twin cam gears so I can get them dialed in the way I want. For now though I just want to get the fab work done.
The head flows so much better than the 8v that it shouldn't matter too much how big the cams are as long as they can be timed to have wide lobe separation and minimal overlap.
10-18-2011, 07:16 PM
#27
Race Car
Thread Starter
Do you have any pics of the intake?
I'm trying to find a few of other builds but they seem to be few and far between.
I'm trying to find a few of other builds but they seem to be few and far between.
I did the same thing on mine. Cut the 951 collector flanges off a set of junk headers and had them welded to the 968 headers. No extra material needed to be added, since I left a stub of 951 header on the flange.
For the 16V intake, I just used a reciprocating saw, final fitment for welding was done with an aluminum compatible cut-off wheel. Using more substantial equipment would have made it easier and cleaner looking.
I had considered making a manually adjustable version of the 968 tensioner, so that the intake cam could be set at a static advance or retard. In the end, I just went with the 968 tensioner, but this might be something to look into.
For the 16V intake, I just used a reciprocating saw, final fitment for welding was done with an aluminum compatible cut-off wheel. Using more substantial equipment would have made it easier and cleaner looking.
I had considered making a manually adjustable version of the 968 tensioner, so that the intake cam could be set at a static advance or retard. In the end, I just went with the 968 tensioner, but this might be something to look into.
10-18-2011, 07:39 PM
#28
Three Wheelin'
This is the only one I have uploaded.
https://rennlist.com/forums/8717863-post17.html
Like the posts says, it was put together quickly to get the car on the road. I've started to smooth the welds down and use filler to make it look less, um...garage fabricated, and more stock looking. It's going to get spray bombed in black wrinkle paint too.
The throttle body is a BBK 75mm made for fox body 5.0 mustangs. I picked it up before they were making universal models.
https://rennlist.com/forums/8717863-post17.html
Like the posts says, it was put together quickly to get the car on the road. I've started to smooth the welds down and use filler to make it look less, um...garage fabricated, and more stock looking. It's going to get spray bombed in black wrinkle paint too.
The throttle body is a BBK 75mm made for fox body 5.0 mustangs. I picked it up before they were making universal models.
10-18-2011, 08:17 PM
#29
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks, it looks like the 968 manifold is much more fab friendly. The s manifold has the tb in the back and the runners come up at a 45 degree. It looks like I'll have to cut them right where they meet the plenum and build from there.
I am going to delete the aos so that'll free up some room.
I am going to delete the aos so that'll free up some room.