Warning flexible clutch line is subject to fail
#1
Warning flexible clutch line is subject to fail
Posted this on the email list too.
I just replace the flexible clutch line hose, which had busted. I was lucky when it went that I was in first, ¼ mile from home. When it does go,
you have no more clutch action, so I just kept going and then when I was close I pulled it out of gear before I had to stop.
Once I got the line out, I noticed it was in terrible condition. I had proactively replaced all my break lines a year ago and the old lines
looked new compared to this cracked and brittle line. I had 175K miles,but I would recommend anyone with over 120K miles to replace this hose
This hose connects to the metal line from the clutch master cylinder and goes down to the slave cylinder. The line has a metal line for the last 8
in or so to the slave cylinder, so if you never look closely between engine and firewall, you would not know that part of the line is flexible
hose. The problem is there all the heat in the area of this line (wastegate, exhaust, etc.).
I placed a large fuel line around the flexible part of the line before installing it. Now it is good for 200K on that part.
I just replace the flexible clutch line hose, which had busted. I was lucky when it went that I was in first, ¼ mile from home. When it does go,
you have no more clutch action, so I just kept going and then when I was close I pulled it out of gear before I had to stop.
Once I got the line out, I noticed it was in terrible condition. I had proactively replaced all my break lines a year ago and the old lines
looked new compared to this cracked and brittle line. I had 175K miles,but I would recommend anyone with over 120K miles to replace this hose
This hose connects to the metal line from the clutch master cylinder and goes down to the slave cylinder. The line has a metal line for the last 8
in or so to the slave cylinder, so if you never look closely between engine and firewall, you would not know that part of the line is flexible
hose. The problem is there all the heat in the area of this line (wastegate, exhaust, etc.).
I placed a large fuel line around the flexible part of the line before installing it. Now it is good for 200K on that part.
#4
Hummm, guess I better replace this line when I figure out where my clutch is going wrong. How hard is it to get at all the way with engine in place? Where did you get supplies at best costs? Skip's Paragon seems to be the best on cylinders.
I had the clutch pedal do the 'ole stay on the floor trick, though it is coming back a bit. I suspect the slave and am setting out some cardboard to see if I can catch some fluid to confirm. It has to be a seal on that or the master since I had plenty of fluid in the reservoir and it now seems to be recovering in this hot weather. Odd thing is I didn't lose a bunch of fluid, maybe none. As far as I can tell the minor drop in the reservoir since last fluid change can be explained by brake pad wear. Will the fluid squirt past the master's seals without actually leaking out? Why not, as I think about it?
Great, I understand the master is a PITA to get at some of the fasteners if you have normal sized hands. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
I had the clutch pedal do the 'ole stay on the floor trick, though it is coming back a bit. I suspect the slave and am setting out some cardboard to see if I can catch some fluid to confirm. It has to be a seal on that or the master since I had plenty of fluid in the reservoir and it now seems to be recovering in this hot weather. Odd thing is I didn't lose a bunch of fluid, maybe none. As far as I can tell the minor drop in the reservoir since last fluid change can be explained by brake pad wear. Will the fluid squirt past the master's seals without actually leaking out? Why not, as I think about it?
Great, I understand the master is a PITA to get at some of the fasteners if you have normal sized hands. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
#5
IceShark,
You should be able to get at the hose without too much trouble.
Just three mount points, on top of the slave cylinder, a brace just above that and on the top side at firewall.
I bought from Paragon, don't recall the price but will look for the receipt.
Master cylinder is a little tough but with swivels and extensions it can be done without to much of a problem.
With the pure quality of your wiring harness, you will have no problem.
You should be able to get at the hose without too much trouble.
Just three mount points, on top of the slave cylinder, a brace just above that and on the top side at firewall.
I bought from Paragon, don't recall the price but will look for the receipt.
Master cylinder is a little tough but with swivels and extensions it can be done without to much of a problem.
With the pure quality of your wiring harness, you will have no problem.
#6
Thanks for the complement David. I don't know if you saw my first real "from the field" comparative headlight package report from Gerd who made before and after measurements. He is only dropping voltage under load at headlight bulb legs by 0.05 volts from alternator under 90 watt per bulb load (plus all the other draws like running lights). That is amazing and better than I ever hoped for! Well under 1% (0.35% here) on 12/14vDC high current draws is basically an impossible dream for one reason or another. I knew it would be tiny from my own tests, but you never know what will happen in general practice. I calculate his lighting output is up 440% from the base he started with. Not too shabby for $340 bucks, delivered.
Anyway, I've decided I better replace the master, line and slave. While I may not know exactly why, something went haywire to keep the pedal on the floor. I've had this '88TS since '90 and know for a fact that all those parts are original. On the master R&R, can I get away with 3/8" drives or do I need to get some 1/4" or 1/8" drives to snake in there best?
Anyway, I've decided I better replace the master, line and slave. While I may not know exactly why, something went haywire to keep the pedal on the floor. I've had this '88TS since '90 and know for a fact that all those parts are original. On the master R&R, can I get away with 3/8" drives or do I need to get some 1/4" or 1/8" drives to snake in there best?