Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

Oil Filter Housing Seal Replacement - Fixed

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-08-2011, 07:55 PM
  #1  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default Oil Filter Housing Seal Replacement - Fixed

Two Weeks ago I replaced the head gasket on my car, got everything back together and everything seemed good until...

Went for about a 20 mile drive on Wednesday night and when I got back I noticed the coolant was very low, about 3 pints. Checked the oil on the dipstick and it did not look good. Drained a little oil and I looked milky. I take most everything in stride but this was a real bummer.

Did a compression test and everything looked fine. Plugs looked good. Car does not smoke at all. Drained the oil and pressurized the coolant, sure enough, coolant started slowly dripping from the drain plug. No trace of oil in the coolant.

I decided to inspect/replace the oil filter housing seals and here is what I found:




The seal looked pretty bad to me, what say you?






The OPRV does not look like anything I have seen, does this look like the 86 OPRV?

Last edited by refresh951; 10-10-2011 at 10:12 PM.
Old 10-08-2011, 08:43 PM
  #2  
Darwantae951

 
Darwantae951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,034
Received 25 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

Looks like an old seal to me!

It could be the culprit, but hard to say.

That is an 86 three piece OPRV. You will need the alignment tool to re-install the housing.

If I were you, I would locate and purchase the updated 86 one-piece OPRV. You have to be specific, as it was made to retrofit into the early engines. The late OPRVs will not fit.
Old 10-08-2011, 08:44 PM
  #3  
Darwantae951

 
Darwantae951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,034
Received 25 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

Josh B should have one, and he is close to you.
Old 10-08-2011, 08:53 PM
  #4  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ModdedEverything951S
Josh B should have one, and he is close to you.

Thanks! I have the alignment tool. I will definitely check on the 1 piece OPRV.
Old 10-09-2011, 12:18 AM
  #5  
zerMATT951
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
zerMATT951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cowtown, TX
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yup, not much rubber left on that old gasket. You'll be shocked when you compare that to a new one.

FYI - I reinstalled my 3-piece using the alignment tool, everything is working great. 1 vs 3 is subject to debate depending on who you ask... reliability, actual pressure, cause people to take a side. Some old-timers (including the Clarks write-up) say that the old style works better - right up until it stops working properly. In a nutshell, I saw enough comments that said if your 3-piece is working, continue to use it. If you start to see funky things happen, replace it with 1-piece.
Old 10-09-2011, 01:20 AM
  #6  
s14kev
Rennlist Member
 
s14kev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 707
Received 20 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

20 miles with coolant in the oil. I would guess rod bearings are next to go. I admire your resilience! I hope I have better luck than you. My build is very similar. So far mines running OK except for troubleshooting a miss at 2800rpm.
Old 10-09-2011, 01:29 AM
  #7  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by s14kev
20 miles with coolant in the oil. I would guess rod bearings are next to go. I admire your resilience! I hope I have better luck than you. My build is very similar. So far mines running OK except for troubleshooting a miss at 2800rpm.
Ya, that definitely crossed my mind. I think I am going to gamble but that has not worked out to well lately. I would recommend replacing the HG and oil filter housing seals if they are original. Adding 100 HP will expose any weakness.
Old 10-09-2011, 02:47 AM
  #8  
Crackership
Rennlist Member
 
Crackership's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 1,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yeah, that old gasket looks its age.

Just out of curiosity... was there an o-ring on the end of your OPRV? There's supposed to be, and if one didn't come out with it, it's probably still in the hole. Definitely gotta dig it out, a new one won't seat properly if there's an old one or bits of an old one in there.

Also, one important note: The o-ring for the OPRV is not included in the housing kits, so make sure you order one separately. Also, I believe the o-rings are unique to each of the three different OPRV's, so make sure to specify.
Old 10-09-2011, 10:19 AM
  #9  
zerMATT951
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
zerMATT951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cowtown, TX
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Crackership
Just out of curiosity... was there an o-ring on the end of your OPRV? There's supposed to be, and if one didn't come out with it, it's probably still in the hole. Definitely gotta dig it out, a new one won't seat properly if there's an old one or bits of an old one in there.

Also, one important note: The o-ring for the OPRV is not included in the housing kits, so make sure you order one separately. Also, I believe the o-rings are unique to each of the three different OPRV's, so make sure to specify.
I researched this quite a bit before reinstalling my 3-piece and determined that the 3-piece does NOT use an o-ring. The 3-piece is a machine fit in the block that relies on free movement in and out against the spring to regulate pressure. The 1-piece design doesn't move and appears to regulate pressure via the oil flow through the holes in it, which is why it requires an o-ring seal.

The 3-piece just needs to be cleaned well so that there is no old oil residue before reinstalling. I also slid my valve in and out several times, spraying carb cleaner in the hole each time to clean out the bore. My valve tip was very smooth going in and out, so I was confident that it would work ok.

I'm going on about 1,000 miles since my reassembly now, and my oil pressure has been looking great the whole time. 5 bar when cold, 5 bar at operating revs, and 3 bar (sometimes a tad below) at idle when warm.

Last edited by zerMATT951; 10-09-2011 at 03:04 PM.
Old 10-09-2011, 01:52 PM
  #10  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

You need to look at and replace the 2 o-rings on the little transfer pipe between the block and the oil thermostat housing. And maybe replace the pipe. See tips here:

http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951..._seal_repl.htm
Old 10-09-2011, 03:06 PM
  #11  
zerMATT951
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
zerMATT951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cowtown, TX
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
You need to look at and replace the 2 o-rings on the little transfer pipe between the block and the oil thermostat housing. And maybe replace the pipe. See tips here:

http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951..._seal_repl.htm
Definitely the seals, they are included with the housing gasket/seal kit. Not sure why the pipe would need to be replaced, it's not a wear item.
Old 10-09-2011, 03:16 PM
  #12  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
Not sure why the pipe would need to be replaced, it's not a wear item.
It was updated. The later part seals easier. Details are in that link I posted.
Old 10-09-2011, 03:36 PM
  #13  
zerMATT951
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
zerMATT951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cowtown, TX
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
It was updated. The later part seals easier. Details are in that link I posted.
Oh, now I remember reading that. I guess I figured mine was working ok when I took it apart, and I guess I got it installed correctly going back together... no oil mixing with water.

Great write-up, by the way. I read all of your articles during my rebuild. Very helpful!
Old 10-09-2011, 03:38 PM
  #14  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
It was updated. The later part seals easier. Details are in that link I posted.
Tom,

Used your write-up to pull the housing. Also had to cut my oil lines. Thanks for your write-ups, I used your HG write-up also.

My pipe is different, only has one o-ring which I replaced, the other end appears to be a pressure fit. See Pic below. Some kind of sealant was in the pressure fit. Anyone know what sealant is suppose to be used? It appears pretty hard, I can flake it off.



Old 10-09-2011, 03:40 PM
  #15  
refresh951
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
refresh951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marietta, Georgia
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
I researched this quite a bit before reinstalling my 3-piece and determined that the 3-piece does NOT use an o-ring. The 3-piece is a machine fit in the block that relies on free movement in and out against the spring to regulate pressure. The 1-piece design doesn't move and appears to regulate pressure via the oil flow through the holes in it, which is why it requires an o-ring seal.

The 3-piece just needs to be cleaned well so that there is no old oil residue before reinstalling. I also slid my valve in and out several times, spraying carb cleaner in the hole each time to clean out the bore. My valve tip was very smooth going in and out, so I was confident that it would work ok.

I'm going on about 1,000 miles since my reassembly now, and my oil pressure has been looking great the whole time. 5 bar when cold, 5 bar at operating revs, and 3 bar (sometimes a tad below) at idle when warm.
Thanks Matt. I pulled it out and it did not have an o-ring. looked all around, no o-ring to be found.


Quick Reply: Oil Filter Housing Seal Replacement - Fixed



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:47 PM.