Street to Track (wheels)
#16
Rennlist Member
Enkei NT03s are also a great budget lite and strong wheel.
#17
Nordschleife Master
I have a set of CCW Classics also for the track, i used to just leave them on year round but the roads in my area suck. The wheels are strong but some of the stuff i have come across and narrowly avoided will probably blow out my strut aswell as bend the wheel. I still have to cut through NYC to get to the tracks and i usually plan ahead, i make sure there is no construction and will usually end up going the long way with an extra toll bridge for the less messed up roads. So yes, rolling around on a $2300 set of wheels is a bit nerve racking. I went with 17"s though so the tire profile is a bit higher, giving a bit more leeway if you do happen to run over anything.
With that said CCW is great to work with and it wouldnt worry me much if i had to get the wheel fixed. Just the obvious inconvenience of dismounting the tire, shipping the wheel back..etc if you had to.
My street wheels are 18" MY02's and will used for wet events if needed. Really nice wheels but i prefer to stay on 17"s for the track.. cheaper tires and less rotating mass..yada yada.
I considered the NT03 Enkei's, really nice significantly and less than the CCW's. But i did not want to run 18"s for the track. The CCW's have the other effect of letting people know you mean business at car shows.. .
Factory wheels are a good budget choice though, strong, readily available and relatively cheap. Just one thing to keep in mind is wheels fatigue, so if you are buying someones used track wheels just keep that in mind and be vigilant about looking for cracks.
I will say i had one giant **** eating grin on my face when opening the boxes for the CCW's..
With that said CCW is great to work with and it wouldnt worry me much if i had to get the wheel fixed. Just the obvious inconvenience of dismounting the tire, shipping the wheel back..etc if you had to.
My street wheels are 18" MY02's and will used for wet events if needed. Really nice wheels but i prefer to stay on 17"s for the track.. cheaper tires and less rotating mass..yada yada.
I considered the NT03 Enkei's, really nice significantly and less than the CCW's. But i did not want to run 18"s for the track. The CCW's have the other effect of letting people know you mean business at car shows.. .
Factory wheels are a good budget choice though, strong, readily available and relatively cheap. Just one thing to keep in mind is wheels fatigue, so if you are buying someones used track wheels just keep that in mind and be vigilant about looking for cracks.
I will say i had one giant **** eating grin on my face when opening the boxes for the CCW's..
#18
Rennlist Member
I've been extremely pleased with the Team Dynamics I have on my Alfa... They're very light, I've had no trouble with bending or cracking and they were pretty inexpensive. They've got to be alright... they're sanctioned by FIA, BTCC, NASA (they racing guys, not the space guys), and SCCA, so they can't suck..
#19
Three Wheelin'
Like some above I run hollow spokes as a street/track rim.
Cheap, pretty light, relatively wide rubber at 8/10 and a no spacer fit if you find the right offsets.
Cheap, pretty light, relatively wide rubber at 8/10 and a no spacer fit if you find the right offsets.
#20
Rennlist Member
Hmm...CCW's ain't cheap! Though I did buy mine used for a bargain. I was warned by fellow listers it would be a soft rim and they are right. I have bent them several times on the street. I chose to have a local shop true them each time. I could have repaired with new parts since they are three piece.
Never had an issue.
I don't go looking for potholes but I'm not particularly picky about where I drive.
#21
#22
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damn...I'm envious. See my next post.
This may be more a function of 18" vs 17". I've been running 17" CCW's for years while living in NYC, and driving all around the tri-state area. With a pretty stiff track suspension as well.
Never had an issue.
I don't go looking for potholes but I'm not particularly picky about where I drive.
Never had an issue.
I don't go looking for potholes but I'm not particularly picky about where I drive.
#23
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ILast weekend I went on my typical ranch roads north of town and the wheels took several hard hits...like "bang!". With our very dry AND hot summer transitions to bridges, etc. have gotten bad. Stuff i couldn't have anticipated. I am out on those roads now.
UPDATE: I pulled all four wheels today and found three of four bent. Sh&t.
Sending all four to a local shop to have them trued and the lips polished.
Should probably sell and/or trade for a more solid wheel since I drive 99.9% of the time on the street.
UPDATE: I pulled all four wheels today and found three of four bent. Sh&t.
Sending all four to a local shop to have them trued and the lips polished.
Should probably sell and/or trade for a more solid wheel since I drive 99.9% of the time on the street.
#24
Three Wheelin'
Great page on Porsche wheel weights here:
http://www.944racing.de/felgengewichte.php
#25
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Admittedly when driven on those country roads it is driven very hard. Need some new roads AND slow down AND should really consider TT's instead.
#26
Burning Brakes
18's are fragile. Larger diameter wheel and less rubber to cushion impacts make them prone to bending, and or cracking. I have experimented with many 18" wheels over the years. I have had good luck with Turbo hollows both 993 and 996. I have used CCW's and bent them. I currently run MY02's as they are the lightest OEM wheel, and bend them on a regular basis. I currently have 4 ready for truing.
I am always looking for cheap MY02 wheels if anyone has any.
I have a pair of 18X8.5 CCW classics, a pair of 18x8 993 hollows, and a pair of 18X8 996 hollows for sale if anyone is in need of any.
The OZ wheels look good value for money, not sure how strong they are.
I am always looking for cheap MY02 wheels if anyone has any.
I have a pair of 18X8.5 CCW classics, a pair of 18x8 993 hollows, and a pair of 18X8 996 hollows for sale if anyone is in need of any.
The OZ wheels look good value for money, not sure how strong they are.
#27
Hey Man
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This may be more a function of 18" vs 17". I've been running 17" CCW's for years while living in NYC, and driving all around the tri-state area. With a pretty stiff track suspension as well.
Never had an issue.
I don't go looking for potholes but I'm not particularly picky about where I drive.
Never had an issue.
I don't go looking for potholes but I'm not particularly picky about where I drive.
#28
This didn't cost
me any drachmas
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me any drachmas
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Originally Posted by ninefiveone
This may be more a function of 18" vs 17". I've been running 17" CCW's for years while living in NYC, and driving all around the tri-state area. With a pretty stiff track suspension as well.
Never had an issue.
I don't go looking for potholes but I'm not particularly picky about where I drive.
#29
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Just to be clear i am not knocking the CCW wheel...they are a track wheel and as such I don't think I would have bent one yet.
I run a 30/35 series combo on 18" rims and no...there isn't much give.
I run the wheels on paved ranch roads and cannot say that I have directly hit a pothole yet. I also have yet to curb the wheels and ALWAYS slow for railroad tracks. The problem is sudden ripples in the road and bridge transitions (which i suspect did it last weekend). I recall slowing to 50-60mph approaching a bridge (OK..maybe 70) and BAM(!) the transition was ****. I have been over that bridge 80 times in the past year and a half....it went away apparently.
I can also say the same roads have only caused the car to dip hard enough a couple times to catch the rear tire on the fender...and it did it multiple times the other day. Almost like i couldn't go slow enough (a relative term).
Ubrupt ripplles or buckles in the road are hard to spot at speed...again not a track. Yeah I know..a few of you prpobably want to wag your finger at me..and rightfully so.
Bad *** looking rim driven on ugly roads with plenty of shifting soil (hard clay)..it's just not working for me.
I run a 30/35 series combo on 18" rims and no...there isn't much give.
I run the wheels on paved ranch roads and cannot say that I have directly hit a pothole yet. I also have yet to curb the wheels and ALWAYS slow for railroad tracks. The problem is sudden ripples in the road and bridge transitions (which i suspect did it last weekend). I recall slowing to 50-60mph approaching a bridge (OK..maybe 70) and BAM(!) the transition was ****. I have been over that bridge 80 times in the past year and a half....it went away apparently.
I can also say the same roads have only caused the car to dip hard enough a couple times to catch the rear tire on the fender...and it did it multiple times the other day. Almost like i couldn't go slow enough (a relative term).
Ubrupt ripplles or buckles in the road are hard to spot at speed...again not a track. Yeah I know..a few of you prpobably want to wag your finger at me..and rightfully so.
Bad *** looking rim driven on ugly roads with plenty of shifting soil (hard clay)..it's just not working for me.
#30
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oh..and btw, I have put a solid 8000+ miles on these wheels in the past year. Usually driven hard.
I just bought new back tires as they are on the wear bars at 8000 miles!
I just bought new back tires as they are on the wear bars at 8000 miles!