So, I've finally got everything back together, but now she won't start. There's a video below... lighting is bad, but the sound is pretty good and I think that's probably more useful anyway.

Just a little bit of background on the recent build, here is my thread detailing what I've done.. but in a nutshell, I've had the engine out, resealed it, replaced most of the wiring harness with the LR harnesses, replaced the clutch, and installed an M-Tune. I'm 90% sure I've got everything back together correctly, but apparently something isn't right if it won't start...

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Video:



TIA!

 

Did you properly gap the speed reference sensors on the top of bell housing? That was my problem when I put my car together. Once I figured that and fixed the gap, it started right up. I did not watch your video yet.

 

I didn't exactly "gap" them, but I scored the bracket and the block before removing the bracket and sensors as a whole and then when I put it back together, I lined the score-marks back up... I'm under the impression that if they are not gapped properly, there will be no ignition.. but it does start for a brief second and then dies...

 

Ok was able hear the video now. Looks like you installed the speed sensors correctly. Also make sure that you plugged the sensors into the correct harness plug there are two sensors and two plugs going into harness. My car sounded similar to yours after I properly gapped my sensors. Then I switched the plugs and it fired right up...but sounds like you carefully put this thing together so I doubt you switched the cables but worth a try if you are not sure.

 

I couldn't view the video but I also used the Lindsey Harness and correctly them and my car still does random no starts.

I kinda touch the sensor wires and it starts. But that's all a long way of asking are you getting the tach bounce? If no tach bouncer it won't start.

 

I have nothing to offer, but I suspect I'll be in the same boat soon (like today or tomorrow). It'll be a miracle if mine fires up after everything I've messed with... good luck Dave!

 

sounds like it is getting spark and some initial fuel.

Have you checked the direction of the maf sensor? The open part should be facing front.

Also look for a large vacuum leak and possibly check fuel pressure

 

Just to be triple safe, I'd check the timing marks on the cam. Does not sound like a cam timing issue, but better safe than sorry.

It sounds like you are getting fuel, spark and air, at least initially. So you might just confirm the spark is still sparking when the motor is dying, and confirm all the easy stuff -- firing order on the plugs, swapped AOS and ISV hoses, open couplers, switched speed and ref connectors (confirm with multimeter to DME pins), SMT6 set up and map, fuel pressure, all connectors clicked tight (MAF, TPS, temp, speed/ref, DME/KLR, etc.) Assuming that all checks out, I'd focus on things that would throw the AFR off, starting with confirming you have .6 +/- .2 volts on pin 7 of the DME while it's briefly running.

 

I have tach bounce... I'm assuming that if I have tach bounce, that means that the S&R sensors are in the correct place and gapped properly?

Thanks, Matt. Good luck to you too!

Much appreciated, Sid. I will check all of those things today.

I'll definitely re-check the timing...

I've quadruple-checked the firing order, I'll double check the ISV/AOS hoses, open couplers?, not sure what you mean there, I'll confirm the S&R sensors, I don't have a piggy back, need to buy a fuel pressure gauge but it'd be a good idea, I've checked all the connectors, but I will again, and I'll check for correct voltages on pin 7...

Thanks, all, for your help!

 

Open coupler as in "oops, I forgot to connect the BOV to the j pipe" or "oops, I squeezed the clamp didn't grab the turbo and squeezed the hose right off the pipe when I thought I was tightening it" or that kind of thing. If Pin 7 has .6 volts or so, you might try adding more fuel to see if you can get it to catch -- if so, you probably have a big vacuum leak. Or try subtracting fuel to see if something is richening it too much (temp sensor, fpr, etc.) Also check to make sure you have a strong clean vacuum signal to the FPR with no leaks in the line to the FPR or anything that T's off it.

 

Check to see if you have 12 volts to your MAF. If it's not getting power, it will start for a brief second and stall (just like in your video). That's my bet.

 

This or that it's plugged in at all.

I know when I've had my car apart, and then put it back together, I sometimes manage to forget to actually plug in the AFM. Then it does exactly what your car is doing. Starts - and immediately stalls.

I'd check that all your MAF wiring is good and that you didn't forget to plug it in or something.

 

I believe he mentioned in his other thread the MAF is getting power.

 

I got it!!... If you check my latest post in my rebuild thread, there's more details and a video of it running, but the short of it is: the MAF signal wire was not connected to the DME (PO splice fell apart)... Fixed it and it ran!

 

Did you find it checking the voltage on pin 7? That one test can help find a world of issues like this....