^&%(ing bellhousing. How to remove?
#16
Race Car
Thread Starter
Want to keep it on a crank, and want to stick with the Ford EDIS (36-1 tooth wheel). If I can't make it work, I'll likely buy the setup Chris sells.
#17
Rennlist Member
You have to take the reference senor bracket out – no doubt about it.
The only way around it is if the previous owner / mechanic modified the bell housing (I do this on any track car) by cutting the bell housing (once its off the car) so that the sensor hole extends all the way to the edge of the bell housing. (that will make sense when you have it apart)
The only way around it is if the previous owner / mechanic modified the bell housing (I do this on any track car) by cutting the bell housing (once its off the car) so that the sensor hole extends all the way to the edge of the bell housing. (that will make sense when you have it apart)
#18
Rennlist Member
The only problem with having it on the crank is that it is exposed to all sorts of debris. Unfortunately, all parts of the track come into play when I am driving even the unintended surfaces, I do not have to worry about anything wacking it.
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
I'm looking at using the factory location, so this shouldn't be a concern. But this will also be for the street car, as track car is staying SP3 spec.
#20
Addict
Rennlist Member
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As long as you run the engine pan you are OK with exposed belts and crank triggers – and you should run the lower cover for the cooling system anyway!
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
Just pulled out a spare bellhousing. The webbing around the sensors has been cut. Apparently what Chris does isn't all that uncommon. I bet lots of folks here who have been able to do that had bellhousings that were modified.
#22
if my car outlives me, a future owner will find mine cut.