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^&%(ing bellhousing. How to remove?

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Old 08-23-2011, 12:15 PM
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67King
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Want to keep it on a crank, and want to stick with the Ford EDIS (36-1 tooth wheel). If I can't make it work, I'll likely buy the setup Chris sells.
Old 08-23-2011, 02:16 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by Chris White
You have to take the reference senor bracket out – no doubt about it.
The only way around it is if the previous owner / mechanic modified the bell housing (I do this on any track car) by cutting the bell housing (once its off the car) so that the sensor hole extends all the way to the edge of the bell housing. (that will make sense when you have it apart)
That's odd -- I've taken my stock bellhousing off without removing the bracket. Getting it back on was another matter altogether though...
Old 08-24-2011, 03:50 AM
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rlm328
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
That's odd -- I've taken my stock bellhousing off without removing the bracket. Getting it back on was another matter altogether though...
The only problem with having it on the crank is that it is exposed to all sorts of debris. Unfortunately, all parts of the track come into play when I am driving even the unintended surfaces, I do not have to worry about anything wacking it.
Old 08-24-2011, 06:14 PM
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67King
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Originally Posted by rlm328
The only problem with having it on the crank is that it is exposed to all sorts of debris. Unfortunately, all parts of the track come into play when I am driving even the unintended surfaces, I do not have to worry about anything wacking it.
I'm looking at using the factory location, so this shouldn't be a concern. But this will also be for the street car, as track car is staying SP3 spec.
Old 08-26-2011, 08:50 AM
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Chris White
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Originally Posted by rlm328
The only problem with having it on the crank is that it is exposed to all sorts of debris. Unfortunately, all parts of the track come into play when I am driving even the unintended surfaces, I do not have to worry about anything wacking it.
I hear this quite often when I suggest that track cars don’t need the belt covers. My usual question is “have you ever lost your Alternator belt?” – its much lower and fully exposed. Anything getting caught between that belt and the pulleys would cause the belt to fail or come off. So far nobody has answered yes to that question.

As long as you run the engine pan you are OK with exposed belts and crank triggers – and you should run the lower cover for the cooling system anyway!
Old 08-27-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
That's odd -- I've taken my stock bellhousing off without removing the bracket. Getting it back on was another matter altogether though...
Just pulled out a spare bellhousing. The webbing around the sensors has been cut. Apparently what Chris does isn't all that uncommon. I bet lots of folks here who have been able to do that had bellhousings that were modified.
Old 08-28-2011, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 67King
Just pulled out a spare bellhousing. The webbing around the sensors has been cut. Apparently what Chris does isn't all that uncommon. I bet lots of folks here who have been able to do that had bellhousings that were modified.
if my car outlives me, a future owner will find mine cut.



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