The rail with a return line setup is from the 97-98 vette. You can find them occaisionally on the vette and LS forums. There is also a company in Kentucky that can make them. I am waiting for a reponse from GM whether they can still be sourced from stock. The return route would be the optimum setup for good fuel flow.

Our build speeds up today. Most of the parts will be here today except for my GM stuff which will be drop shipped.

 

I used both a new gasket and the permatex as suggested by some corvette race friends. I'm guessing the pan was a bit warped, will try the angle iron as a fix until the next time the pan comes off. I was very careful in my torque pattern and did it in two steps.

EDIT: I added the piece of angle iron between the two rear bolts and the leak stopped? Will keep this setup until I have to drop the pan in the future!!!!

Below is vid of the initial start up. Kinda rough, but there are only headers on the car and no oxygen sensors.

 

Get rid of that sharp 90 in front of the throttle body and you'll pick a nice power bump.

TonyG

 

I got the air intake free from Tom as he was unloading parts prior to his move. I'll keep if for the time being to get my initial tune and dyno numbers. I'm still contemplating how I want to handle my wt/hp. Clearly I plan on being just above the 8.7:1 but how I do that is the question. As the car stands now, I would be one of the lightest on the track but also the lowest power. This is a plus at a track like Barber, CMP, Mid-Ohio, but is a minus at Road Atlanta and VIR. Even with stock HP from the LS1 (with the 90 elbow), I will likely have to add substantial ballast.

At 2551 lbs I can have 296 rwhp
At 2651 lbs I can have 310 rwhp
At 2751 lbs I can have 323 rwhp

 

ahhh... makes sense. And I totally agree... Low weight beats high HP on the track.

How much weight would you add to be over 8.7:1? Also... you can tune out some peak HP with fuel and timing above say 5500rpms or so....


TonyG

 

I do not believe that low weight beats high hp on tracks that have long straights or rovals like Daytona. There, HP wins due to higher speeds on the straights.

Being over 8.7:1 is allowed but makes you less competitive. Being under (ie 8.6:1) moves you into ST1 where the limit is 5.5:1 and I don't want to play with the big boys as that requires cubic $$$$'s.

I need to be able to run up to around 6,400 rpms due to gearing and wheel size. My tuner says we can make any needed adjustments as you suggest. The good news is the Torque is free (it wasn't in GTS).

 

I'll still take the lower weight unless you're running Daytona... and I'm talking about the full track like Nascar runs.

TonyG

 

Had the car out in the driveway today, first time it has moved under it's own power. It goes off to get the remaining exhaust work on Wed evening.

When I pulled the car back in I decided to weigh it; the car is 11 lbs heavier than when I began!

 

Was the before with or with the supercharger? Glad to see you are up and running and the oil leak is fixed.

 

With the supercharger. Unfortunately the leak is not fixed, thought it was but started leaking again.

All the under hood wiring is completed at this point. Will finish the dash tonight.

 

I used the ARP oil pan stud kit to get my pan snug and secure. Not a lot of $$ and not worries on stripping a bolt.

 

Update; test fit shows reasonable room to work with we have a little trimming to do but not much.

Removed an addional 25 pounds of wire.

Many parts will not show up until Tuesday/Wednesday so I am going to white-out the interior today and tomorrow night.

Our goal is completion in 7 days Sunday afternoon 100%.

 

Looking good!

 

It looks like the input shaft in not far enough into the pilot bearing you might want to make sure RH sent you the correct bearing looks like an LT1 bearing to me the bearing should be approx 1.10 thick for correct engagement. The red Energy Suspension motor mounts will eventually fail with track use I would replace them with solid chevy units the excessive heat from track use turns them to mush and the engine will sink and eventually be resting on the cross member. Look at the mounts offered by TPC they are a impoved design see the attached picture of my uprights used with a soilid chevy mount. You can see the solid chevy mounts on the photo of the engine this would be the easiest fix since you already have the RH uprights.
Your progress looks great nice attention to detail!

 

You need to fabricate a guide plate for your oil lines to sit on top of or they will get cut by the bosses on the engine block (as shown by the arrows).

TonyG