LS6 Project
#17
RH Radiators (Ron Davis) are triple pass notice the weld marks on the tanks. The pressure in a triple pass radiator is 64 time that of a single pass unit and on a track car the water will spend too much time in the radiator under high rpm to cool efficiently on the track. They are fine for a street car where most of the time you are below 3k. I have helped several guys build these cars over the years as and have seen the cooling problem caused by multi-pass radiators. Summit makes a nice all aluminum single pass unit that will fit the 951 it is less than $200 but you will have to add bungs for the fan switch, fill port from the expansion tank, mounts for stock fans and it is good to add an air bleed at the top of the drivers side tank. BTW the stock fans are plenty adequate for cooling and you can retain the stock 2 step relay and wiring. You can do a really efficient radiator and fan set up for less than $400 vs $850-$1K for the RH unit. Street cars are fine on a good 951 radiator. You can also eliminate the thermostat on a track car by welding up the bypass but leaving a small hole to remove air this will help move the coolant faster with less pressure in the system but it is NOT recommended for a street application. Hope this helps!
#18
If you go the Summit route you don't even need to get the bung for the fan switch welded in. Connect the high and low speed fan wires to the corresponding wires on the LS ECM. The LS ECM will control the Porsche ran relay. The relay is looking for a ground which is provided by the LS ECM. You will then have the ability to program the fan on an off temps.
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
thanks
Thanks. I was going to keep the Chris White oil water cooler but apparantly the setup is backwards. I appreciate any information. This is not about my way or the highway, it's about a quick pro build of a competitive car. I appreciate and will entertain any information offered.
#20
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Hey...
You should have got the headers V banded before they were ceramic coated.
No matter... I would have them V banded. If you don't, you have to double nut the bolts, and a few are really hard to get tight due to the tight clearance.
Where id you get the long block? Is it the same CTS-V LS6 that I have? I have a buddy looking for one for another conversion race car.
TonyG
You should have got the headers V banded before they were ceramic coated.
No matter... I would have them V banded. If you don't, you have to double nut the bolts, and a few are really hard to get tight due to the tight clearance.
Where id you get the long block? Is it the same CTS-V LS6 that I have? I have a buddy looking for one for another conversion race car.
TonyG
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
RH Radiators (Ron Davis) are triple pass notice the weld marks on the tanks. The pressure in a triple pass radiator is 64 time that of a single pass unit and on a track car the water will spend too much time in the radiator under high rpm to cool efficiently on the track. They are fine for a street car where most of the time you are below 3k. I have helped several guys build these cars over the years as and have seen the cooling problem caused by multi-pass radiators. Summit makes a nice all aluminum single pass unit that will fit the 951 it is less than $200 but you will have to add bungs for the fan switch, fill port from the expansion tank, mounts for stock fans and it is good to add an air bleed at the top of the drivers side tank. BTW the stock fans are plenty adequate for cooling and you can retain the stock 2 step relay and wiring. You can do a really efficient radiator and fan set up for less than $400 vs $850-$1K for the RH unit. Street cars are fine on a good 951 radiator. You can also eliminate the thermostat on a track car by welding up the bypass but leaving a small hole to remove air this will help move the coolant faster with less pressure in the system but it is NOT recommended for a street application. Hope this helps!
Tom have you looked at the Wizard Cooling radiator? It is significantly cheaper than RH and supposedly a drop-in. I just ordered one from Chris White
#24
I can fabricate most anything, so a "shorter" bell housing isn't really an issue.
#25
I have not see the Wizard radiator but if it is from Chris I am sure it is a quality piece. Be sure to plumb the line from the top of the heads (steam port) to the expansion tank and not to the radiator lie it is done on the 941 engine.
I haven't ever had any issues with drive shaft being too short on any of the conversion I have done. I always check the engagement depth of the pilot bearing before I actually install the clutch on the flywheel. This can also be a result of the pilot bearing adapter not being the correct length and that will depend on the thickness of the adapter plate you are using. The length of the spline on the clutch disc is also a factor I worked with Dave Norton at SPEC several years ago to develop the clutches that he sells for this set up and I would not use anything else. The firewall is the limiting factor for setting the engine back more but in the current location the front to rear weight is usually better than the stock turbo 4 banger. When you eliminate the heavy inner cooler from the front of the car the bias is improved. Most track only cars with no AC will actually be lighter on the front end. I am not sure how much can be gained by moving the drive train/engine rearward. I look forward to seeing the projects develope and hit the track!
Tony is correct I would consider power assisted brakes over manual as well as power steering with both the car will be faster, more consistent and easier to drive.
I haven't ever had any issues with drive shaft being too short on any of the conversion I have done. I always check the engagement depth of the pilot bearing before I actually install the clutch on the flywheel. This can also be a result of the pilot bearing adapter not being the correct length and that will depend on the thickness of the adapter plate you are using. The length of the spline on the clutch disc is also a factor I worked with Dave Norton at SPEC several years ago to develop the clutches that he sells for this set up and I would not use anything else. The firewall is the limiting factor for setting the engine back more but in the current location the front to rear weight is usually better than the stock turbo 4 banger. When you eliminate the heavy inner cooler from the front of the car the bias is improved. Most track only cars with no AC will actually be lighter on the front end. I am not sure how much can be gained by moving the drive train/engine rearward. I look forward to seeing the projects develope and hit the track!
Tony is correct I would consider power assisted brakes over manual as well as power steering with both the car will be faster, more consistent and easier to drive.
#26
Rennlist Junkie Forever
If you go the Summit route you don't even need to get the bung for the fan switch welded in. Connect the high and low speed fan wires to the corresponding wires on the LS ECM. The LS ECM will control the Porsche ran relay. The relay is looking for a ground which is provided by the LS ECM. You will then have the ability to program the fan on an off temps.
TonyG
#27
Rennlist Member
#28
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
In regard to the Tilton setup. With the correct size master cylinders it will feel the same as a boosted system. I decided that I wanted to keep my electric power steering setup so I won't need a power steering pump at all. I reviewed this with some friends in Grand Am and my fabricator. Because of the layout of the 944 we will probably do the suspended version.
The motor is a CTSV LS6 long block, sourced from Superior in Kansas City, John Carter.
We are going to fab up some V band clamps to bolt on, then use a Y to connect my fabspeed single 3" for now.
The motor is a CTSV LS6 long block, sourced from Superior in Kansas City, John Carter.
We are going to fab up some V band clamps to bolt on, then use a Y to connect my fabspeed single 3" for now.
#29
Rennlist Junkie Forever
We are going to fab up some V band clamps to bolt on, then use a Y to connect my fabspeed single 3" for now.
TonyG
#30
Rennlist Member
I thought the Wizard radiator that Chris White sells is very similar to the Ron Davis one?
I need to replace the radiator in my 948 this off season, I was going to get the Ron Davis one. Now I definitely won't, but what should I get instead?
I need to replace the radiator in my 948 this off season, I was going to get the Ron Davis one. Now I definitely won't, but what should I get instead?