disasterman

I had retained the stock bumper which allowed everything to move as a parallegram. There is slight damage to the fins in a 3" area but I raked it out. This will take care of my oil cooling needs as well. When you add that in it will make a lot of sense.

Schuepbach

For brackets and other smaller things check out nookandtranny.com, they have everything you need including bolt kits for stuff like the brackets. Also everything comes in neatly labelled bags.

Lemming

I use the non-fuel return system and put the fuel filter/regulator in the old filter spot. In hindsight, it would have been cheaper to find a fuel rail with a return system.

disasterman

I have been on the Nook & Tranny website thanks for the referral. I was thinking the same thing on the rail. I think I need the 1999 rail.

968ls1

The hose feeds a remote IAC motor if you look close the throttle body does not have one. I had to to this to obtain hood clearance if I had a drive by wire set up it would not have been necessary. Yes I am using a LS6 valley pan.

968ls1

I ended up with 3/4" masters front and rear and ran Hawk pads but I can;t remember the part #/grade. I would stay with high torque pad as the manual set up will be a little more forgiving on premature lock up. The trick for me was making sure the brake pads were bedded properly and having them at operating temp when adjusting the balance bar, it too a full weekend at Road Atlanta to get it right but once I was done the braking was excellent with no lock up-The car did have ABS and I disconnected it when I dialed it in.

968ls1

[QUOTE=disasterman;8797517]How about some better pictures of that pedal set up please, why not remote those reservoirs?.

I met with my ace assistant/mechanic, Eniac last night to finalize our parts list for the build start. By Friday everything should be in house except the brakes which will be addressed last. This winter I will pull everything out and paint the interior with the same product as the front clip.

fuel pump - Walboro
fuel rail - 99 w/ return (Tony?)
fuel regulator - AAM

You can save some $ here by using a Bosch 044 pump (I used a stock 968 pump with 450+rwhp with no issues). For the fuel regulator and filter use the factory C5 unit and put it in place of the factory 951 filter (photo attached) this will save you several $$$ overwhat you have listed above. Use the fuel rail that came with your engine.
Speedway Motors has a good deal on a kit with the filter/regulator and fittings just search under LS1 and you can find it.

While we're in there will extend to the removal of all existing wiring except where connected @ the wipers, tail lights, fuel pump etc. We made up a list of necessary switches for our switch panel.
We settled on the following;

momentary - starter
on/off - fuel pump
3 position/3 pole - wiper
on/ff - main power switch

Eniac is researching the radiator for me. I still have my Chris White/Wizard oil cooler/radiator, payment has not been received by the buyer. Would this work?
I looked at the Wizard radiator it should be fine for your application just be sure to plumb the steam line to the coolant tank and not the top of the radiator.

Other parts to get today;

Saiko dual catch can good choice!
F body alternator & bracket Look on LS1tech.com for the brackets-buy a new alternator from Advanced Auto and get the warranty so if it fails you can get a replacement at no cost.
Porsche NA overflow-Sunset
LS6 starter I think all LS1 starters are the same
spark plug/coil wires The MSD wire are great because you can bend the plug ends away from header tubes
idler arm ?
tensioner Buy a new one so the spring is good and strong or as I did buy a Kateck or Speed Inc one that you set the tension you can see it in the photo of my engine
gaskets Which ones? with the exception of the head gaskets they are all o-ring style and can be reused.

If you have any input, please do so right away, the credit card will be sizzling by noon.

Tom

333pg333

Some more pics. Not much to see. Welded in a mounting plate first and as the whole assembly is further rearwards than the stock pedals, we moved the drivers seat back and welded directly to floor pan after putting in some reinforced runners. Hence 'extendo-boss'.
As for putting the reservoirs elsewhere, tbh I hadn't given that much thought just yet. So much has changed on this car that there were many things occupying my brain space. Might check it out once the motor and d/sump system are in.

On the wiring side of things I've gone with a Motec PDM30 module which are quite expensive, but there are other cheaper items coming out of the U.S. now that are worth considering. Does away with fuses and relays. Much tidier and a lot more functional in chasing / diagnosing problems. Also you can configure auto reset in case of momentary glitch. Definitely worth considering one of these type products. Here's the Motec link:
http://www.motec.com/aboutpowerdistr...utionoverview/

Wound up using the wheel well for surge tank and fuel pumps. Maybe oil trans cooler pump too.


Thanks for that. As I've not used this type of brake setup yet I'm not sure what to expect. Towards the end of last season playing around with slicks, I was locking them up with stock Braking system, Big Reds and PFC pads. REALLY ****ty to do that to some brand new tyres!!

Lemming

Good news: My 944LS1 project started tonight
Bad news: I have an oil leak at the back of my oil pan

TonyG

That's what I did. I think it's a '99 F body fuel rail. Has supply and return right in-line with the 951 supply and return lines. Made installation a breeze....


TonyG

TonyG

That sucks. I've done two conversions and neither pan leaked. Are you using the factory gasket with sealer at the joints in the block? (basically at the corners... like the factory does)?


TonyG

eclou

make sure its the pan and not the remote oil line fittings

Lemming

Definitely the pan, right smack in the middle. And yes Tony, I did use some sealer as well.

I'm using an alum Canton racing pan that to be honest looked a bit flimsy. With only two small bolts in the back I was worried about a leak when i installed it. I'm currently thinking about cutting a piece of angle iron to run between the two rear bolts to help support the center. Not sure if it will work but worth a try before a drop the pan and everything else that has to come off.

TonyG

Hey... sorry.. I just went back and reviewed some notes...

I ran a small bead all the way around the block and the pan and used the factory gasket.

I used that black/dark grey stupid expensive sealer from Porsche (I don't have the part number off hand).

Which oil pan are you using? Is it flat? Someone was recently saying that they had an oil leak and the pan wasn't flat, although I can't remember who that was.

TonyG

Lemming

I never put it upside down to check flatness. I did run a bead around the entire pan, I used Permatex Right Stuff. Not sure of the model but it's a canton unit that I got from Tom.