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Old 08-16-2011, 01:22 PM
  #31  
2bridges
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Originally Posted by TonyG
The only way to get the same pedal effort as a boosted system, would be to use much smaller master cylinder bore sizes. The down side to doing that is increased pedal travel. That will make it hard to get the brake pedal to line up with the gas pedal under maximum braking.

TonyG
That depends on the pedal ratio used in combination with master bore size.

However cannot imagine a 12 piston 4wheel disc setup non assisted would be very track suited. I expect you would have to setup for extremely hard pedal to keep a reasonable travel. Despite the notion of not being effected - very heavy brakes absolutely will fatigue you on long or multiple sessions. Even worse for larger diameter piston calipers (Big red/black)
Old 08-16-2011, 02:01 PM
  #32  
TonyG
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Originally Posted by 2bridges
That depends on the pedal ratio used in combination with master bore size.

However cannot imagine a 12 piston 4wheel disc setup non assisted would be very track suited. I expect you would have to setup for extremely hard pedal to keep a reasonable travel. Despite the notion of not being effected - very heavy brakes absolutely will fatigue you on long or multiple sessions. Even worse for larger diameter piston calipers (Big red/black)
That's what I'm talking about.

There are no free rides. You trade pedal effort for pedal travel (no matter if you do it with master cylinder bore size or pedal ratio, or a combination thereof.... it makes no difference. The net result will be a trade off between pedal travel and pedal effort.)

Which is why they have brake boosters on the car in the first place (which is why all the actory Porsche race cars run them as well).

Manual brakes would be real tough in a long race on a track with lots of braking.


TonyG
Old 08-16-2011, 08:09 PM
  #33  
Max Energy
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The radiator that I recieved from RH for my LS3 944 was manufactured by PWR
Max
Old 08-16-2011, 09:00 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by TonyG
That's what I'm talking about.
Manual brakes would be real tough in a long race on a track with lots of braking.
TonyG
Tony, obviously you forgot to attend the racing school of brake less, gas more.. LOL!

I don't foresee myself ever running a race longer than 30 minutes.
Old 08-16-2011, 09:33 PM
  #35  
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I ran a dual master system with a balance bar on my gray 968 and it worked great. I did have 14" stop tech rotors up front which helped reduce effort and it did take some time to get the correct master cylinders and balance bar adjusted properly the modulation was excellent. Pedal alignment with the gas was not an issue for me. I sold the set up to Lemming to use on his Frankencar I will have to see how he likes it. I have an electric power master on my new car and love it. I do think track cars with power steering and brakes will deliver faster more consistent lap times over manual set ups.

RH must have switched to PWR but they appear to still be triple pass and not the ticket for properly cooling a track car that is getting the **** run out of it.

The best bang for the buck on a radiator is the Summit unit. I have a 2 core C&R that I had built 8 years ago and it is as big as I could make it and still fit between the frame rails, it was $600.00 back then not sure what it would cost today.

Here is a pic of the new ride not intended for track use but I am sure it will see a DE every once and a while.

Last edited by 968ls1; 01-07-2013 at 01:34 PM.
Old 08-16-2011, 10:23 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 968ls1
I ran a dual master system with a balance bar on my gray 968 and it worked great. I did have 14" stop tech rotors up front which helped reduce effort and it did take some time to get the correct master cylinders and balance bar adjusted properly the modulation was excellent. Pedal alignment with the gas was not an issue for me. I sold the set up to Lemming to use on his Frankencar I will have to see how he likes it. I have an electric power master on my new car and love it. I do think track cars with power steering and brakes will deliver faster more consistent lap times over manual set ups.

RH must have switched to PWR but they appear to still be triple pass and not the ticket for properly cooling a track car that is getting the **** run out of it.

The best bang for the buck on a radiator is the Summit unit. I have a 2 core C&R that I had built 8 years ago and it is as big as I could make it and still fit between the frame rails, it was $600.00 back then not sure what it would cost today.

Here is a pic of the new ride not intended for track use but I am sure it will see a DE every once and a while.
Is that the Thunder Racing catch can you are running? If so how do you like it? I'm probably going to pick one up in the next month or so.

I also have the RH radiator but havent had the chance to really flog it on the track, curious to see how it will hold up.
Old 08-16-2011, 10:28 PM
  #37  
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Yep, I have Tom's former manual brake setup. I can tell you that when you push the pedal it gets firm very quickly. Not sure how I will like it on the track, my legs are not nearly as big as Tom's
Old 08-16-2011, 10:49 PM
  #38  
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Hey Tim,
When is that beast hitting the track? I can't wait to hear how you like the LS1 now that you have moved over to the dark side. I think you will be impressed with the dual master set up as your car is a good bit lighter than my old 968 was. Keep us posted on your progress!

Schuepbach I can't remember where I bought the catch can it could have been Thunder I have been happy with it and it is good quality design.
Old 08-16-2011, 11:22 PM
  #39  
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Tom,
Your car looks Great. I have to get back on the 944/v8 project.
I finished building the wheels, 12.5x18 with 335 RA1's and 10.5x18 with 275 RA1's
3" SS to Burns 4" SS oval merge collector exhaust is 75% complete.
I do need to speak with you regarding Master Cylinder selection for the V8 car.
I have been racing the #13 1989 944 2.7 and having a blast
Max
Old 08-16-2011, 11:26 PM
  #40  
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Tom,
Could you give me a call.
Max
225 573-0664
Old 08-16-2011, 11:49 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 968ls1
Hey Tim,
When is that beast hitting the track? I can't wait to hear how you like the LS1 now that you have moved over to the dark side. I think you will be impressed with the dual master set up as your car is a good bit lighter than my old 968 was. Keep us posted on your progress!
Soon, very soon. Got the ECU back from SpeedSouth today and attempted to start it, but no go. I think there may be an issue with the relay/fuse box that we built and the ECU is not getting power when the ignition switch is on. I was short on time tonight, hopefully it will be fixed quickly tomorrow night and the beast will roar into action. Starter works fine, so I was able to prime the oil pump and get pressure through the system yesterday.

The Leonard's want me to go to Texas and run the NARRA race on Labor day, not sure I can make that as I still have to get the y-pipe built, tune the car and then get in a local test and tune day before I'm willing to travel. Realistically I'm looking at Nashville in early October for the debut with NASA-MS.
Old 08-17-2011, 12:55 AM
  #42  
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Not too far from having to figure out what m/c to run with Tilton setup. Any short cuts? In view of the supposed increase in effort needed would sticking with a very bitey pad (was going to try something a bit less so than the PFC 01/97 due to lockup with boosted system) be a worthwhile idea?
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Old 08-17-2011, 01:33 AM
  #43  
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Tom on that sweet 968 what is the long hose going into the driver's side of the air intake J-pipe? PCV? Are you running the LS1 valley pan vs the updated LS6?
Old 08-17-2011, 09:09 AM
  #44  
disasterman
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How about some better pictures of that pedal set up please, why not remote those reservoirs?.

I met with my ace assistant/mechanic, Eniac last night to finalize our parts list for the build start. By Friday everything should be in house except the brakes which will be addressed last. This winter I will pull everything out and paint the interior with the same product as the front clip.

fuel pump - Walboro
fuel rail - 99 w/ return (Tony?)
fuel regulator - AAM

While we're in there will extend to the removal of all existing wiring except where connected @ the wipers, tail lights, fuel pump etc. We made up a list of necessary switches for our switch panel.
We settled on the following;

momentary - starter
on/off - fuel pump
3 position/3 pole - wiper
on/ff - main power switch

Eniac is researching the radiator for me. I still have my Chris White/Wizard oil cooler/radiator, payment has not been recieved by the buyer. Would this work?

Other parts to get today;

Saiko dual catch can
F body alternator & bracket
Porsche NA overflow
LS6 starter
spark plug/coil wires
idler arm
tensioner
gaskets

If you have any input, please do so right away, the credit card will be sizzling by noon.
Old 08-17-2011, 09:33 AM
  #45  
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The radiator you have is a single pass and should work fine for your set up.
How did you bend the front of the frame rails and have the radiator survive!!?!


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