Rebuilt my throttle body
#1
Racer
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so i ordered the arnworx rebuild kit last week for $20 or so and also a new TPS since my idle was erratic. the rebuild wasn't too difficult. the hardest part was getting the throttle plate shaft back through the new seals without damaging them. and you have to do it a few times (or at least i did) to get the springs and stuff on there correctly. it only took about 3 hours total including removing it from the car and installing it and that's with me really taking my time with it and this is the first time i've taken the throttle body off the 951.
the difference was outstanding! the engine runs much smoother and the wandering idle is fixed except for the first start when it's cold. it stays too low for a few seconds now, but that must be a different issue.
the mid throttle, throttle response is MUCH smoother. drives like it always has.
i'm still having a fairly loud ticking noise coming from the engine on a cold start as well that started last week. not sure if it's lifters, injectors or exhaust. i don't have enough expertise to diagnose this one yet. after about a minute it goes away and continues to run perfectly.
the difference was outstanding! the engine runs much smoother and the wandering idle is fixed except for the first start when it's cold. it stays too low for a few seconds now, but that must be a different issue.
the mid throttle, throttle response is MUCH smoother. drives like it always has.
i'm still having a fairly loud ticking noise coming from the engine on a cold start as well that started last week. not sure if it's lifters, injectors or exhaust. i don't have enough expertise to diagnose this one yet. after about a minute it goes away and continues to run perfectly.
Last edited by kinglenario; 10-12-2011 at 01:29 PM.
#3
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Did mine a few weeks ago - highly recommended. Have a good set of small picks to get all of those old o-ring bits out, and use a dremel to smooth the bumps on the shaft left when you back out the original screws. A minute or two with the dremel allows the shaft to slide out and back in easier, but you still have to be careful about catching the new o-rings when sliding it back in.
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strange how your throttle body has a steel plate and mine is brass with a number 4 stamped on it.
i can't find the hard stop adjustment on clarks. can you give me a link?
i can't find the hard stop adjustment on clarks. can you give me a link?
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when i put the throttle body back together i adjusted the butterfly valve so that it almost fit perfectly closed, then adjust the hard stop at that point. should the butterfly valve be a little bit open? i can't find a specification on that.
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#8
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I'm pretty sure that spec is in the instructions, somewhere in those 10 pages of text. I want to say I hand tightened until it hit the hard stop, then went an extra 1/4 turn then tightened the jam nut. I'm not 100% positive about that, but it sounds right.
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Mine was completely closed, and the ISV was freaking out when cold. I'd just turn the screw a half turn clockwise and then adjust the idle with the air screw on top.
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great job, do you haave any close up pictures of the small springs i have been un able to find suitable pictures of them and need to put new ones on my throttle body. old one rusted.
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I don't have a picture of the small spring but there's pretty much only one way it will work. I would try putting it together without the seals first so you can figure out how the spring works. Then put it back together with the new seals installed once.
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Have throttle body off car. Any tips to get the throttle plate screws out of shaft considering it looks like the back side of the screws is squashed perfectly flat so they may be wider than hole?
I do not have a dremel handy. Do have a drill with regular bits, may have a small chisel.
Just do not want go mess anything up of course.
I do not have a dremel handy. Do have a drill with regular bits, may have a small chisel.
Just do not want go mess anything up of course.
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Have throttle body off car. Any tips to get the throttle plate screws out of shaft considering it looks like the back side of the screws is squashed perfectly flat so they may be wider than hole?
I do not have a dremel handy. Do have a drill with regular bits, may have a small chisel.
Just do not want go mess anything up of course.
I do not have a dremel handy. Do have a drill with regular bits, may have a small chisel.
Just do not want go mess anything up of course.
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Frankly some screws are and some aren't I had issues with mine and the instructions seem to intimate, that the screws will just come out. Don't make the same mistake I did, and make sure you drill out the smashed part
The TB shaft splintered a little, when I tried to remove the screws (without drilling the flared part off ) Just drill them in the back carefully or better use a dremel
Regards
Ed