Throttle body Re-biuld Kit... calling Laust :-)
#31
Nordschleife Master
Totally forgot about that ISV, yeah there's that too. Does the ISV adjust its PWM based on coolant temp? I remember people deleting it and saying they have poor cold performance but fine once its warmed up. Honestly, that thing is a little magic cylinder to me... that for most of my 951 ownership I had installed in reverse *face palm*
To make a comparison to the LS1 crowd, when they put a big lopey camshaft in they sometimes drill a hole in the throttle plate. The little bit of extra air allows a smoother idle.
I'll be rebuilding my (second) TB tonight (I've juuuust had enough to drink to make car maintenance fun!), I'll see how the throttle plate fits. As far as I know it has ~105k miles on it and had never been rebuilt (except for the 50 miles I ran it after rebuilding it then moving the rebuild kit over to the TB I didnt break the nipple off).
I fully suggest you remove the evap system if you aren't in a state that inspect, it frees up so much room and gets rid of about 8 feet of vacuum line.
To make a comparison to the LS1 crowd, when they put a big lopey camshaft in they sometimes drill a hole in the throttle plate. The little bit of extra air allows a smoother idle.
I'll be rebuilding my (second) TB tonight (I've juuuust had enough to drink to make car maintenance fun!), I'll see how the throttle plate fits. As far as I know it has ~105k miles on it and had never been rebuilt (except for the 50 miles I ran it after rebuilding it then moving the rebuild kit over to the TB I didnt break the nipple off).
I fully suggest you remove the evap system if you aren't in a state that inspect, it frees up so much room and gets rid of about 8 feet of vacuum line.
As for drilling a hole in the throttle body, we already have one, and the amount of air passing is controlled by the screw in the top of the throttle body. The TB rebuild kits I use come with a replacement o-ring for the screw, and the instructions are all the way down, back 1/2 turn, and adjust from there.. it is an orifice in the TB housing to allow a small bit of air into the manifold when the TB is closed, properly adjusting the plate during rebuild will assist in this screw doing it job properly!
As for the throttle stop, all the way out, position the plate (it should be all the way closed, you should be able to get it totally closed at this point), set the plate screws (tighten them down, verify good plate seal by opening and closing it a few times using the light trick).. THEN adjust the throttle stop screw to stop the throttle plate from sticking on the walls of the TB (do this, and you will see what I mean by sticking).. set the throttle stop to alow the throttle plate to close, but not be hung up within the TB.. it will take a few tries, but you will get the feel for it once you go through it!
Once this is done, install the air bypass screw in the top, all the way down, back 1/2. fine tune it from there once the car is running, this is important for warm engine idle performance.
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I cant tell you how happy I am to be finished with this $#%& thing !
An addition shout out to Tom how had to listen to my screams
Now I have a ga billion more parts to put on ...
Worked on getting this headlight bar in, but still working on it .... Not the easiest in get in there
Regards
Ed
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I read the directions in the 2nd kit ( 6 months older than my Orig kit ) you gave me, and it suggests that you can dremel off the back of the screws ... ( A good idea I must say )
Last edited by Crazy Eddie; 04-04-2011 at 11:57 PM.