Front spring setup --- what's wrong with this?
#1
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Please take a look at these pictures.
Why do these front springs move around and make terrible noises?
Is there a spring perch missing from this setup?
Car was apparently improved for DE use, then parked for a while.
Son's intention is street daily use, on a stock-feeling setup, with original phone dials.
Anyway to get a stable, non-clanking ride from these?
Or do we need to junk this racing stuff and find some original springs?
TIA for any ideas on this.
Why do these front springs move around and make terrible noises?
Is there a spring perch missing from this setup?
Car was apparently improved for DE use, then parked for a while.
Son's intention is street daily use, on a stock-feeling setup, with original phone dials.
Anyway to get a stable, non-clanking ride from these?
Or do we need to junk this racing stuff and find some original springs?
TIA for any ideas on this.
#2
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Nothing looks wrong... What exactly do you mean by "spring noise"?
If anything the solid upper strut mount (camper plate) is probably transmitting more suspension noise to the body because it's "solid". Might there be a bad control arm ball joint, tierod end or wheel bearing if you're getting excessive suspension noise?
If anything the solid upper strut mount (camper plate) is probably transmitting more suspension noise to the body because it's "solid". Might there be a bad control arm ball joint, tierod end or wheel bearing if you're getting excessive suspension noise?
#3
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First, check the top nut on the struts, if loose that will cause noise.
Those look like ground control camber plates, but not using ground control upper spring hats. I am not sure those hats are designed to work w/ the bilstein strut rod or the GC plates (GC hats have a torington bearing in them and a unique thrust surface design). Is the hat loose or pinched tight between the strut rod and a spacer?
The components might not be a best fit match, but most race suspension w/ solid upper mounts and linear coil springs & hats will make some noises. Some coil binding will occur when making tight turns and you will get occasional spring pop.
Those look like ground control camber plates, but not using ground control upper spring hats. I am not sure those hats are designed to work w/ the bilstein strut rod or the GC plates (GC hats have a torington bearing in them and a unique thrust surface design). Is the hat loose or pinched tight between the strut rod and a spacer?
The components might not be a best fit match, but most race suspension w/ solid upper mounts and linear coil springs & hats will make some noises. Some coil binding will occur when making tight turns and you will get occasional spring pop.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Has the car always done it or is this something new? You have a helper spring so this should not happen but off the top my head, I think the upper spring is not fully seated. You can try taking some weight of the front and see if you can wiggle the spring into position.
I had this happen with my M030 setup after I jacked the car up and put it back down, I don't have helper springs however but I guess if you take all the weight off it the spring could unseat at the top?
PS don't put your fingers between the coils if you try this but I really think your problem is pretty simple!
I had this happen with my M030 setup after I jacked the car up and put it back down, I don't have helper springs however but I guess if you take all the weight off it the spring could unseat at the top?
PS don't put your fingers between the coils if you try this but I really think your problem is pretty simple!
#5
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Thanks for replies.
I think the spring becomes uncentered on the upper hat, which is somehow stationary.
For instance, a moderately hard right turn will take pressure off the spring.
When the body levels-off, the spring gets pressed, then it snaps back into center on the upper hat.
Its that reseating that is the first problem. How to fix?
Harsh ride for the street, I guess, is the second issue.
Am new at suspension work / maybe we could adjust a bit.
I think the spring becomes uncentered on the upper hat, which is somehow stationary.
For instance, a moderately hard right turn will take pressure off the spring.
When the body levels-off, the spring gets pressed, then it snaps back into center on the upper hat.
Its that reseating that is the first problem. How to fix?
Harsh ride for the street, I guess, is the second issue.
Am new at suspension work / maybe we could adjust a bit.
#7
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The noise is normal. Getting a spacer/separator between the helper and main springs will help somewhat. As the springs rotate the ends of each of the springs catch on each other and make noise. A spacer will help reduce this. Bilstein escort cup coilovers are track suspension. You live with the noise and harshness.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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The helper spring is suppose to keep that from happening. There is one other possibility. That looks like the same camber plate setup I have on my 85.5 NA.
It came with two pieces, the camber plate itself and a thrust plate with needle bearings. If your not using a coil over sleeve, you use the camber plate by itself. If your using a coil over you put the thrust plate below the camber plate.
Maybe you don't have that thrust plate installed? I can see if I can dig up the part and documentation later on. I think I bought it from Paragon years ago and I do remember it because I had never seen anything like that at the time.
To sum up, if it is the same one I have, if you take the mount off you should have two parts, if there is only the camber plate by itself, I think a part is missing.
It came with two pieces, the camber plate itself and a thrust plate with needle bearings. If your not using a coil over sleeve, you use the camber plate by itself. If your using a coil over you put the thrust plate below the camber plate.
Maybe you don't have that thrust plate installed? I can see if I can dig up the part and documentation later on. I think I bought it from Paragon years ago and I do remember it because I had never seen anything like that at the time.
To sum up, if it is the same one I have, if you take the mount off you should have two parts, if there is only the camber plate by itself, I think a part is missing.
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#10
Burning Brakes
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Those look like ground control camber plates, but not using ground control upper spring hats. I am not sure those hats are designed to work w/ the bilstein strut rod or the GC plates (GC hats have a torington bearing in them and a unique thrust surface design). Is the hat loose or pinched tight between the strut rod and a spacer?
![](http://home.comcast.net/~jsnord/pics/951-gc-hat1.jpg)
Here's the system together.
![](http://home.comcast.net/~jsnord/pics/951-gc-hat.jpg)
The components might not be a best fit match, but most race suspension w/ solid upper mounts and linear coil springs & hats will make some noises. Some coil binding will occur when making tight turns and you will get occasional spring pop.
#11
Burning Brakes
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BTW, it does look like that car was setup for track use. Camber plates, coilovers, brake cooling ducts are all in the picture. I'd bet you have upgraded sway bars as well.
You'll need to assess the rear suspension before you make spring changes. If you don't have coilovers in the rear, it's very likely that the PO installed thicker torsion bars to match the stiffer front springs. If you only swap the front springs, it's very likely the car would be very unbalanced - maybe to the point of being dangerously unpredictable. Ride height will also likely be off as well - high in the front.
If you guys do decide to do anything, make sure you plan appropriate front and rear changes to keep the car balanced and safe.
You'll likely have lots of takers for the track gear if you do decide to go this way.... can be a pretty big chuck of labor to swap everything back. Torsion bar swaps are not for the feint of heart.
You'll need to assess the rear suspension before you make spring changes. If you don't have coilovers in the rear, it's very likely that the PO installed thicker torsion bars to match the stiffer front springs. If you only swap the front springs, it's very likely the car would be very unbalanced - maybe to the point of being dangerously unpredictable. Ride height will also likely be off as well - high in the front.
If you guys do decide to do anything, make sure you plan appropriate front and rear changes to keep the car balanced and safe.
You'll likely have lots of takers for the track gear if you do decide to go this way.... can be a pretty big chuck of labor to swap everything back. Torsion bar swaps are not for the feint of heart.
#12
Three Wheelin'
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The camber plate setup is the one I have! But it's not identified as being Ground Control ? But the top photo the unit on the right is what I was trying to describe! If you don't have the coil over sleeve, then you don't use that plate! If you have an adjustable sleeve, which you do then you need that unit on the right!
You need to see if your has it!
PS: I thought GC stuff was bronze with red springs? Blue, springs are usually Welt or Hypercoil?
You need to see if your has it!
PS: I thought GC stuff was bronze with red springs? Blue, springs are usually Welt or Hypercoil?
#14
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helper goes at the bottom, the noise could be bad swaybar bushings, bad ball joints, rear a-arm bushings etc.
#15
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can u make video. Coil noise will happen if you lower the car from jacks or if you crank the wheel like if you were parking the car