951Gary

Has anyone done this? Is it a bolt in, or a _itch? Was it worth it?

thanks
Gary

Luke

I dont know if there is any way to use the 951 speedo because the cable attaches to the abs in the 968 i believe.

Redeye

The tranny would be a direct bolt on but, like Lukesilver95186 stated, the spedo would not work. You would also have to replace the axels with 968 ones. There is a way to modify the 951's abs so that you could get speedo readings but I'm not sure how. You could also swap in a 968 abs system and use that without modification. My roommate did the latter on his 88 944 NA just before he droped a 968 enging in as well.
Hope this helps.
Dan

951Gary

Thanks for the input. Are the 968 axels required because the output flanges on the 968 are different (or diffent length) than those on the 951/944? Was the 968 ABS swap easy? I'd actually like to have ABS, but this is beginning to sound rather expensive and painful.

Any other comments/suggestions still welcome.
Thanks,
Gary

86944turbo

It is expensive putting a 968 6 spd. into a 951. I only did it 'cause my engine builder told me I would definitely blow my 5 speed. There have been many who have fixed the speedo problem. It takes some work, I have not yet done it. But I know of at least a couple in the Bay Area that have. You end up with a tranny that has a lower first gear and 6th is lower than the 5th in the 5 spd. You can change gearing at about $800 per gear. Remember that the 6 spd. was geared for a 3L N/A motor, while the 5 spd. for the 2.5 turbo. Personally, I do not see any advantage for anything less than an actual 450 H/P motor. I doubt that, through any acceleration contest the 6 speed is quicker. With the 5 spd. I could reach 105 mph in third at 7000 rpm. The 6 speed requires 4th after 90. Oh, it has shorter throws, shifts possibly a little smoother. But, you have to be careful when performing full throttle shifts into 6th, as you not only pull down, but, because where it's situated, a liitle to the right, otherwise you hit 4th and caboom. More than a few ahve done this in the heat of battle. I've been lucky so far. The 5th to 6th shift requires a very deliberate throw. My 2 cents worth.

Redeye

The 968 axels on the 968 were shorter than the ones on the 951/944 i believe. This is the reason that you have to replave them. As for the abs option in my roommates car, he didn't have abs to begin with ('88 NA) so he had Technodyne (sp?) do the install rather that deal with the headach himself. From what i've seen though, it shouldn't be TOO complicated to DIY if you have the time.

O/T
Hey 86944Turbo,
How do you like you Milledge motor? Have you lost any driveability from stop light to stoplight? How about traction issues? Sorry for so many questions... just very curious.

Thanks,
Dan

86944turbo

Dan,

The only major difference in driving this motor on the street is the noise. I realize that one might expect a high strung motor due to the cam, turbo, etc. It idles around town very nicely at 900rpm. I am going to raise this to Jon's advisable 1150rpm. While on the dyno, this motor developed boost at 2000 rpm. That is loaded on the dyno. In street use, above 3000 rpm in higher gears and 3500 in lower gears. The clutch is a little tricky. Traction is a big problem. I realize that this may sound ridiculous, but I was rolling onto the throttle in third (approx 55-60 mph) on a freeway merge lane and when it came on boost, it just slewed left and right to redline. I only run 245 Dunlop SP Sport 8000's, but it does have a Torsen. I need wider tires. On low boost, 11 lbs. it spins them through second.

Redeye

Thanks for the responce 86944turbo. That would be a fun car to drive!!! I'm thinking about something along these lines... just not sure what and how much I wan't to spend. HP=$$$$
Thanks again,
Dan

Luke

86944turbo,

If you see positive pressure @ 2000 rpm, where do you see peak boost? what turbo are you running?

86944turbo

Sizing of turbo's is an art form. I believe the company that handeled the turbo was Turbo Enhancements. I've just moved and I am disorganized. The principles are former employess at Turbonetics. Their headquarters are very near Turbonetics. I believe the turbo started as a Garret T04B. I do not have at my fingertips all the info on it. Jon called it a HiFi. Water cooled/ceramic bearing. Max boost on my high setting is 20lbs. The motor acheives this at different RPM's in different gears. The more load, the sooner. In 5th or 6th, max boost is acheived at 3500. Possible lower, if I were to go full throttle in 6th at 2000 RPM. But that does not make a lot of sense. I do not perfrom a lot of full throttle runs in first. It is extremely difficult to modualte the tire spin. In second full boost is acheived immediately after coming on boost. When I download the MoTeC dumps, I look at full throttle and just several tenths of a second later 240kpa. That takes place at around 4000-4400 RPM. I do not do a lot of full throttle runs on high, in second gear, as it is impossile to prevent the tires from spinning. I have taken passengers out for rides and the common thread is that they cannot believe that it is a turbo motor. It pulls evenly from 4500 to 7000. There is virtually no lag in shifts from 3-4, 4-5 & 5-6, on high boost. On low boost, there is virtually no lag in all of the above + 2-3, as the tires do not spin as madly on low.
Between 4500 and 7000 it performs almost as a normally aspirated motor does, far more responsive than my brother's stock 951. Some of that can be attributed to the turbo, but probably most to Jon's Barrel Valve Intake. As a side not, Jin told me it took him 40 hrs. to assemble the manifold. In cruising down the freeway, at 80mph, in sixth (3500 RPM), if given full throttle, the HKS peak hold boost gauge quicly pins at 21 lbs. The gauge is a little optimistic. I ahve not timed this or looked at those particualr dumps. But, I'd say from no boost to full boost well befor 4000 RPM.

Luke

Where is peak torque/power? What do you have set for a redline? What sort of knock sensor do you use????