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My compression numbers after being towed home.

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Old 04-20-2011, 01:57 PM
  #31  
minho78
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Originally Posted by Oddjob
Couple thoughts:

If the car was running fine, then shut off and would not start - that is most likely not a compression problem, unless the t-belt failed and it bent valves. If it was over rev'd to 10k on a missed shift, it might also have had some valve contact.

I have done the WOT testing with the car running on 2 cylinders. And I have burned an exhaust valve on track and ran a couple laps trying to figure out what was causing the drop in power. It would still pull 120mph down the straight w/ zero compression on #4.

I was also in the passenger seat of a 89T that broke a #1 rod on track, and blew the engine apart. It also had burned a #4 exhaust valve during the incident. The driver/owner had to turn the motor off with the key, because it was still running.


I would recommend checking all the common fuel and ignition failure points (DME relay, ign coil, cap and rotor, spd ref sensors, fuel pump, etc) before pulling the head.


Thanks for the input Jim. I'll look at it again.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:02 PM
  #32  
minho78
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Originally Posted by Van
Remember, there are two TDCs... one on the power stroke (at combustion) and one after the exhaust stroke. For this second one, the intake valve will be partially open (remember, the intake opens a little before TDC to maximize the air flowing into the cylinder).

I think it's much more likely that you just have a blown head gasket.
Hey Van, I have the engine at TDC(CAM/Crank). When I did a leakdown test I didn't see any bubbles on the reservoir so I assumed the HG was OK. Yesterday was raining and I kind of rushed to check it.

Thanks for the Input.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:09 PM
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minho78
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Originally Posted by Oddjob
When you crank it over - is it firing at all? Any popping or smoking? Or just cranking?
No popping or smoking. Just cranking.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:13 PM
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Tedro951
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If it isn't popping or trying to start, it sounds like ignition or fuel. Pull a plug wire and use the screwdriver to "near ground" to check for spark. If so, check fuel sys. Not sure why comp was low, but I think you have 2 different problems.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:18 PM
  #35  
minho78
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Originally Posted by Chris White
It could be burnt valves – typically that would had a ‘chuffing’ sound at cranking since the area of the valve that is missing is fairly small you can hear the air escaping past it as you crank the engine.

Hearing the air in the intake during a leak down test would not be typical of a burnt valve – It’s the exhaust valves that get burnt.

I would also expect an engine with the compression numbers you listed to still start and run – maybe not very smooth but it should run and idle.

Sounds like you have something else going on….
Not sure about the exhaust valve, but there's no air going out the exhaust. Thanks for the Input.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:18 PM
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carlege
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What was compression before the problem?
Old 04-20-2011, 02:25 PM
  #37  
minho78
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Originally Posted by Tedro951
Van clarified the reason I asked about TDC in each cyl. For a leak down check, think 8 TDC's....only 4 will work for the test.

Manny, this is where I was heading. Low compression in a few cyls wont stop an engine.
Thanks Ted, you actually made a good point.

Originally Posted by Van
Also remember that you'll get a little leak-down past the rings, which will go into the crankcase, which will go to the AOS, which will go to the breather/PCV, which vents into the intake (j-boot) for emissions... This will cause air to be in the intake, although it's not getting their via an intake valve.
Van, I checked for air escaping right on the port on the side of the Intake manifold. I also checked for air escaping through the oil cap and stick and there was almost no noise from air escaping. Like you said i was actually thinking that the air was escaping through the PCV system, but it wasn't.

Thanks Van.
Old 04-20-2011, 02:26 PM
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minho78
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Originally Posted by carlege
What was compression before the problem?
I have never done one. Actually this was my first time.
Old 04-20-2011, 03:51 PM
  #39  
MM951
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Originally Posted by lart951
Sold my head to minho for $ 200.00 shipped I bet you can't beat that.
Damnit...
Old 04-27-2011, 11:10 AM
  #40  
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Lart I got the package.
Thanks
Old 04-27-2011, 05:47 PM
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ehall
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lart FTW!
So have you figured out the problem yet?
Old 04-27-2011, 05:53 PM
  #42  
minho78
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Ehall not yet. I have been really busy with the house and a 9 month old baby. I might look at it this weekend.
Old 04-28-2011, 09:54 PM
  #43  
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Ok, as I was going to start taking the car apart I found that the lower part of the rotor came off. My rotor is all messed up at the tip and my cap is completly cracked the funny thing is that I had spark. I'll upload pictures later. Could this be the cause of a no start even with weak spark?
Old 04-28-2011, 11:58 PM
  #44  
Jeff N.
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Yes. The spark timing is all off. This doesn't explain your compression issues.
Old 04-29-2011, 12:09 AM
  #45  
minho78
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Originally Posted by Jeff N.
Yes. The spark timing is all off. This doesn't explain your compression issues.
Jeff you are correct. But I have been debatting on what to do. Sell the car as it is, buy a long block and rebuild it and then just swap. One year ago this car would be at Chris white's door. Today it's a different story. I love the car but there's other priorities.

Manny


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